Monthly Archives: May 2012

Paris, Restaurants

A Parisian Restaurant with a Tree in the Middle

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The first time we went to Le Pré aux Clercs on rue Bonaparte in the 6th arrondissement was on the way home from a week’s holiday and it was about 10 pm. Despite the late hour, it was crowded and we were taken upstairs. Relationnel took the dish of the day – a large sole – which he has never forgotten! The next time we went, we were seated downstairs and discovered, to our amazement, that there was a large tree in the middle of the restaurant. Unfortunately, the sole was off, but we enjoyed the meal. We’ve been back several times since.

When we walked across the river on Saturday night via the Pont des Arts, where the lovelocks have positively taken over, the streets and particularly the terrace cafés were packed, especially since it was one of the first sunny days in quite a while. I got Relationnel to check the map before we left, because I remembered our getting lost last time despite his usually good sense of direction. We went the wrong way – again – but enjoyed the walk. There was even a little old lady dancing to a live jazz band in front of one restaurant!

Given the number of people in the streets, I decided to phone and check they had a table. “Pas de problème”, said the waiter, without taking my name. There were people queuing up when we arrived but we got a table straight away. To my surprise, the tree had been completely transformed. I learnt later that it had never been a real tree – I guess I was rather naive to think you could have one in the middle of Parisian restaurant anyway!

Despite the sun, the temperatures were a little cool and we kept our jackets on but the waiter spontaneously moved us closer to the terrace where there was heating, which was much better and one side of the restaurant was completely open. We ordered foie gras between us as a starter, but we should have known it wouldn’t be the façon traiteur type that we prefer. We loved the presentation though.

Relationnel then took the monk fish (there was still no sole) and I had rack of lamb with stir-fried vegetables. Both were very tasty even though the lamb was probably a little closer to mutton. A lot of their produce is labelled “traditional agriculture”. We chose a glass of petit chablis with our foie gras and a pays d’oc red with our main course. We didn’t have desert (we rarely do as neither of us is a natural skinny) and didn’t bother about coffee, because we prefer to make our own decaffeinated at home with déca from Verlet. The bill was a reasonable 62 euros.

Even though Hemingway used to come here, which you’d imagine would attract the tourists, most of the patrons were French and in their late twenties, early thirties. There was no English on the menu. The service is relaxed, efficient and friendly. After we changed tables, I took a photo of an attractive-looking patisserie opposite, only to discover it was the famous Ladurée cake shop, restaurant and tearoom, founded in 1862 and known for its macaroons! I’ll have to try it out now that I know where it is.

Le Pré aux Clercs, 30 rue Bonaparte, 75006 – Tel 01 43 54 41 73.
 
Ladurée 16-18 rue Royale Paris VIII – Tel. 01 42 60 21 79
Ladurée 21 rue Bonaparte Paris VI – Tel. 01 44 07 64 87
Ladurée au grand magasin Le PRINTEMPS 64 Boulevard Haussmann Paris IX – Tel. 01 42 82 40 10
Ladurée on the Champs Elysées is being refurbished at the moment. 
Italy, Sightseeing, Travel photos

Sunday’s Travel Photos – Orvieto, Italy

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The gothic cathedral in Orvieto in Umbria, built between 1290 and 1330, is my all-time favourite. The first time we went there in 2003, it was surrounded by vintage cars and I found it absolutely stunning, both inside and out. We returned two years’ later but unfortunately, I still didn’t have a very good camera. When we went back last year, I found it just as fascinating. However, although I had upgraded my camera, the ordinary visitor can’t stand far back enough to take very good photos, particularly as it’s so tall. The weather wasn’t the best either time – we were caught in a downpour as we left. Orvieto is also an excellent white wine (either sweet or dry).

 

France, Lifestyle

Favourite Flowers

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Peonies are one of my favourite flowers. They don’t come out for long but as soon as they do, I buy them on the market on Sundays. I like the pale pink ones best. We have a bush growing in the garden of our “little house” (next door to our Renaissance home) in Blois but one’s definitely not enough so I’ll be planting more, maybe even trying my hand at cuttings. In the background of the photo, you can see the lovely watercolour that Black Cat brought back unharmed all the way from Australia at the end of her study year, despite the weight restrictions!

Another flower I love is the orchid and I’ve learnt how to make the flowers come back again the next year. Leonardo used to buy me one each year for my birthday in April and I was delighted when two of them reflowered recently. Brainy Pianist took up the tradition in Leonardo’s absence and added a beautiful specimen to my collection. When the flowers die, you cut the stalk off after the third “eye” and keep watering regularly. In September, put it outside if you can, to simulate the tropical winter, and next spring, you should see a little shoot appear! My little April violets have been reflowering each spring for many years now.

Tiny pansies are just so cute, with their delicate faces, and they come in every imaginable colour combination. I’m thinking about where I’ll grow them in Blois.  We came across these in a public garden bed when cycling near Château d’Ussé. Absolutely irresistable! It’s a favourite ride in the summer, as the road leading to the castle which is set up on a hill, is flanked with sunflowers in summer.

I’ve always dreamed of having a house with wisteria in front. Mr Previous Owner must have pruned ours at the wrong time this year because it looked very meagre compared with his photos of the house from last year and other specimens in the neighbourhood such as this one, in the very same street. Venice in the spring when the wisteria is in bloom is absolutely breathtaking as you can see if you click on the link to my Sunday’s Travel Photos.

 

Waterlilies and, in particular, the nympheas in Monet’s garden in Giverny, immortalised in the oval rooms in the Orangerie Museum in Paris, are something I love too. I have a special connection with waterlilies. When I was born, my father, a true romantic, went out to pick them for my mother. He was also the one who chose my name – Rosemary.

Relationnel is also a romantic. Before we lived in Paris, my ground-floor office, whose window looked out onto a little courtyard where I planted lots of flowering shrubs, was opposite a flower shop. Always when I was least expecting it, I’d see the florist coming towards me with a lovely bunch of fresh flowers courtesy of Relationnel who would phone her up from work. She always made sure they went in my special vase.

So, what are your favourite flowers?

Italy, Restaurants, Sightseeing, Travelling, Wine

Where to go in Tuscany

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If I didn’t live in France, I’d live in Italy and, more especially, Tuscany. Umbria, just next door, isn’t bad either and contains my favourite cathedral – Orvieto. The first time I went to Tuscany was about twenty years ago with two young children in tow and I’ll never forget the magic of Florence. I can still see Leonardo marvelling at Michelangelo’s David. I didn’t go back until 2003, but have returned several times since gradually discovering the entire region.

Apart from just soaking up the wonderful countryside, with its undulating hills and picturesque cyprus trees, at its best in June before harvest time, you can choose from so many wonderful places to visit. Start with Pisa which despite the hordes of tourists, leaves a powerful impression on the visitor. There isn’t just the leaning tower, but also a cathedral and a baptistry. Head north to Lucca, where we spent a memorable night in the Hotel Romantica just outside the city walls and had our first taste of an Italian aperitivo on Place Frediano.

Another time, we rented a little house up on a hill not far from Castiglioni Fiorentino where we ate a memorable tagliata, which I’ve decribed in another post. The town itself has a breathtaking view, particularly in the late afternoon. Further on is Arezzo, where Life is Beautiful was shot in 1997 on Grande Piazza. It is also home to the wonderful Piero della Francesca frescoes. Cortona, so beautifully described by Frances Mayes in Under the Tuscan Sun, remains one of my favourites, with its relaxed atmosphere and lovely kitchenware and home decoration shops. Definitely best in the morning before the tourists arrive.

When we visited Florence we found that staying in an agriturismo (B&B is the countryside) halfway between Florence and Siena was the perfect solution. The views along the way are quite stunning and it means you can avoid the noise and expense of a hotel in Florence. There are parking lots on the outskirts where you can leave your car and walk into the city. Our favourite is Casa Nova near Greve in Chianti, worth a visit in itself, particularly the Antica Macelleria Falorni delicatessan on the main square. Ask for a room with a terrace and enjoy a glass of Poggio ai Mori chianti as the sun sets over the Tuscan landscape.

In Florence, we had a surprisingly good (and reasonably priced) lunch at La Galleria on via Guicciardini, away from the crowds and dinner at Il Cantone di Guelfo where the staff was friendly and we ate an excellent bistecca alla fiorentina.  Another time, we ate at Enoteca San Augustino, now called Enoteca Mondovino, on the other side of the Arno, where I ate a porcini mushroom the size of a plate! I’ve been trying to repeat the experience ever since but to no avail.

The Duomo, which is stunningly beautiful, is worth visiting at different times during the day to capture the changing light.  Remember to reserve your tickets to the Uffizi museum on-line if you want to save your feet for Botticelli and Fra Lippo Lippi. There are many commercial sites which are considerably more expensive so make sure you use the official site. Michelangelo’s David is in a separate building, the Galleria dell’Accademia. And make sure you go up to Fiesole to get a magnificent view of the city.

The first time we went to San Gimignano in the hills around Florence, it was late afternoon, about an hour before the shops closed. Most of the tourists had gone and we had dinner in a restaurant with a spectacular view. We made the mistake of going back again late morning when the tourist trade was at its zenith.. It took us ages to park and the throngs detracted from the charm but we still loved the wonderful ceramic fountains and garden furniture and intend to go back one some day to buy a table and chairs.

Quite by accident, we stayed in Siena the first time during the extremely popular Palio horse races but the Piazza del Campo was completely black with people and, as foreigners, it was difficult to be really part of the atmosphere, with each of the city’s contrade or neighbourhoods parading their colours. We returned at a quieter time and were able to appreciate the city much more, particularly its stunning cathedral.

Other places that are worth a detour, to quote the Michelin guide, are Pienza, with its beautiful duomo and palazzo, Montepulciano, famous for its vino nobile, has many lovely Renaissance buildings, and Montalcino, a charming little town on top of a hill where you can eat outdoors halfway up the slope and taste its famous brunello di Montalcino wine.

Next time I’ll take you to Umbria!

Reliable hotel booking service in Italy: www.venere.com
 
Hotel Romantica Via N. Barbantini Tel. +39 0583 496872 e-mail villaromanticalucca@venere.com
 
Agriturismo Casa Nova La Ripintura, Sandra Taccetti, Via Uzzano 30, I-50022 Greve in Chianti
Tel/fax: +39 055 853459 e-mail: casanova@greve-in-chianti.com http://www.greve-in-chianti.com/fr/casa_nova.htm
 
Ristorante ‘La Galleria’, Via Guicciardini 48r, 50125 Florence Telephone: 0039 055 21 85 45 (on the right as you head towards Palazzo Pitti)
 
Official Uffizi Museum site: http://www.b-ticket.com/b-ticket/uffizi/default.aspx.
 
Il Cantone del Guelfo, Via Guelfa, 41/43, Florence
 
San Augustino (now Mondovino), via Augustino 27, Florence
History, Paris, Restaurants, Sightseeing

Leaving Van Gogh in Auvers – Language Exchange Speed Dating with Franglish – Visit to Institut de France Library

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This Wednesday, I’m bringing you a new blog I’ve just discovered for the art lover – American Girls Art Club in Paris – with a post that will take you to Auvers-sur-Oise where Van Gogh died. Next Paris Weekender tells us about Franglish, a novel group which holds language exchange events in various bars around Paris. Then Kathy Stanford from Femmes Francophiles takes us on a tour of a little-known monument that is open to the public: the Institut de France library, after breakfast at Angelina’s.

Leaving Van Gogh in Auvers

by American Girls Art Club in Paris

When Vincent Van Gogh died in Auvers-sur-Oise, France in July 1890, he left behind so many burning questions.

How did he die? Was it a self-inflicted gunshot wound or homocide? And why was the gun never found? How did Van Gogh ever manage to complete over 70 dazzling paintings in just 70 days in Auvers? It’s all such a mystery. Read more

Language Exchange Speed Dating with Franglish

by Paris Weekender

Do you find it easy or difficult to learn a foreign language? How do you learn best?

While I may not have mastered all the foreign languages I have studied over the years, I do consider myself an expert at being a student of languages. Yes, all of the books in the photo above do belong to me: English dictionaries, law dictionaries (arguably in English but that is debatable), French, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, Arabic, Japanese, German…. Read more

Visit to Institut de France Library

by Femmes Francophiles

After breakfast [at Angelina’s] I headed to the Left Bank with Destination Europe and Island Girl. We visited the Bibliothèque Mazarine at L’Institut de France. To enter the library you enter through the security area to the left of the imposing main portal. You are not usually allowed to enter the Institute so you do need to explain that you want to access the library. You will be asked to leave your ID with the guard. Read more

 

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Paris

Sunset in Paris

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One of the things I like best about living in the centre of Paris is walking through the streets at dusk. From mid-May until about mid-September, we can wander down after dinner, through the Palais Royal gardens, across rue de Rivoli and under the Louvre coming out next to the glass pyramids.

We then have the choice of turning right and walking down to the Tuileries Gardens if they are open (April-May, 7 am to 9 pm, June to August, 7 am to 11 pm, September to Mars, 7.30 am to 7.30 pm), where you can find a chair just before the trees begin, put your back to the Arc de Triomphe and watch the Louvre change colour), or left, onto the Place Carrée then right over the Pont des Arts.

You can also walk around the pyramids and go directly to the Seine, crossing over the river at Pont Royal, which is what we did last night.

I love the intricate iron lamp posts lined up along the bridge.

We turned left after we crossed the bridge and walked past the bouquinistes, closed at this hour. We noticed that some had numbers of various shapes and sizes, but most of them had nothing at all.

We envied the people sitting on the deck of one of the river boats but will wait until it’s a little warmer this year before we join them. We might even take a cruise on La Calife again. It’s a small boat moored on Quai Malaquais between Pont du Carrousel and Pont des Arts, that offers a 2-hour cruise down to the Eiffel Tower with Mediterranean-style cuisine and menus at 49 and 67 euros. Don’t forget to take something warm as it can get chilly on the water at night. Book a day or two ahead. You can reserve on-line or phone.

We then crossed back over via Pont du Carrousel with a perfect view of the sunset.

Le Calife, quai Malaquais, Paris 75006. +33 (0)1 43 54 01 08, www.calife.com. info@calife.com
Lifestyle, Paris

Outlet Stores in Paris

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Saturday was satisfying if not exciting. We went to Usine Center in the north of Paris (on the way to Charles de Gaulle Airport) and I was able to cross quite a few things off my never-ending list of things to buy for the gîte in Blois. I first learnt about outlet stores many years ago when doing a translation on McArthur Glen in Troyes, a historial city about 2 hours south-east of Paris.  I then learnt there is another big outlet centre in the area called Marques Avenues (marque = brand). There is also one in Saint-Denis in Greater Paris. These are proper stores with last year’s fashion, kitchen and dining ware at bargain prices.  Even cheaper during the sales of course when they’re crowded.

The goods displayed on hangers and shelves just like anywhere else so you don’t have to scrabble around to find things. They often have special offers as well. In the first store we went to – Sym, a brand of women’s clothing – where the pants were already reduced from 89 to 59 euros, there was a further 30% if you bought more than 2 items, bringing the price down to 40 euros. I didn’t have trouble buying 3 pairs as they have a wide variety of styles and colours, though not a lot in my size which, unfortunately, is the most popular!

We then went to another shop where I found bedspreads, table runners and tablecloths for about half the price I would have paid in Galeries Lafayette. Also, I found the colours I wanted – I had had no success whatsoever in the Paris stores where white, beige and taupe (a sort of mushroom colour) are all you can find. these days. I picked up a couple of kitchen items in another shop, then we had lunch. We usually eat at a chain called Oh ! Poivrier but they weren’t offering anything very exciting.

We ended up in the French version of a food court, but it was mostly  fast food (Chinese, pizza, couscous, harmburger and grill) so I ended up eating entrecôte (fairly safe!) with French beans straight out of the tin. Relationnel had some rather unappetising French fries with his. The girl at the coffee bar had run out of milk so I had expresso instead of cappuccino.  And to think we were avoiding the Ikea cafeteria!

Before going to Ikea,  just a couple of minutes away, where we picked up various missing pieces from the time before. we went to the DIY chain Castorama. I at last found some bedside lamps.  I was beginning to get desperate because everywhere I’ve looked (including the big department stores), I haven’t been able to find anything I like. I’m still not entirely satisfied, but at least they are neutral and will do until I find something more to my liking. We picked up a few more things such as a new shower rose for the upstairs bathroom and some rendering to redo the wall where Relationnel drilled the hole in the downstairs bathroom (I’ll tell you about that story another time).

The next item on the list was a bedbase. We inherited a matttess in good condition, but of an unusual size – 120 cm – and have been looking for a base for the spare room. Our favourite second-hand website leboncoin.com came to the rescue once again. The owner lives on the second floor, up a narrow stairase, in a tiny street in the 3rd, with no possibility of parking close by. We organised the roof rack beforehand and I unwittingly commandeered a young man walking down the street (I thought he was with the seller!) to help me carry down the base so we managed to put it on the roof and drive away without getting a fine (we happened to to be in an Auto’lib parking lot).

I’m delighted because I’ve at last taken care of the most difficult things on the list.

Usine Center Zone industrielle Paris Nord 2 
134, avenue de la Plaine de France
BP 70164
95500 GONESSE
Tel. 0820 42 03 42 (0.12 cts TTC/ minute)
Fax. 01 48 63 24 62 
Opening times:
Every day, all year, 7 days a week
(except 01/01, 01/05 and25/12)
Monday to Friday, 11 am to 7 pm
Saturday & Sunday 10 am to 8 pm
 
Public transport
RER B station ” Parc des Expositions Villepinte ”
Bus 640 from RER station
Get out at “Centre commercial”  (just follow the crowd)
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Sydney Writers’ Centre’s Best Blogger Competition Results

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Thank you everyone for voting for me in the Best Blogger Competition. I obviously did not win (I am very small fry compared to a lot of bloggers) but it was wonderful to be part of the competition. I hope you all found lots of other blogs to follow as well!

So here are the winners: http://www.sydneywriterscentre.com.au/bloggingcomp/index.html

Yesterday, I met up with some of my favourite anglophone bloggers in France for breakfast at Angelina’s. I’ve already featured most of their blogs in my Wednesday’s other blogs post:

Fellow Australians:

http://femmesfrancophiles.blogspot.fr/

http://www.destinationeurope.net/

http://www.carams.fr/

And from the US:

http://outandaboutinparis.blogspot.fr

 

http://parisweekender.com/

http://manandwomaninparis.blogspot.fr/

http://findingnoon.com/

http://islandgirl4ever2.blogspot.fr/

 

 

 

Lifestyle, Loire Valley

Planting Potatoes in the Rain

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The weather was so beautiful on Monday that we decided that it was time to do some planting. We dashed out to Truffaut before it closed and filled our trolley. We started with gardening gloves (3 pairs for me – rubber, roses and everything else), a large pronged fork, an edge cutter, some perennial fuschias, more gladioli bulbs (not mouldy) and lilies for the front bed, some evergreen bushes with little yellow flowers to frame the front door, another evergreen to fill a large empty pot, thyme, rosemary and sage, 4 different raspberry bushes (so that we’ll have fruit from June to October) and organically-grown potatoes.

Thoughtful had already prepared the potato bed when he came at Easter which was very fortunate because when we woke up next morning, you guessed it – it was raining. I suggested we wait until it cleared during the afternoon but Relationnel said we should plant the potatoes before the earth was completely sodden. He was right , of course, because it rained steadily for the next 4 hours, showing no signs of letting up. We downed our gardening clothes (not that I really have any) and set to work.

Being a city girl, I had no idea how to plant potatoes (though I drove a tractor once to harvest them!). Fortunately, Relationnel’s parents had a market garden so he is very cluey about that sort of thing. You hoe a furrow and then plant the potatoes about a half an arm’s length apart. The potatoes are pre-germinated with several long sprouts. Then you cover them up to form a mound so you know where to find the potatoes when they’re ready to pick about three or four months later.

The next thing we planted were the raspberries. This caused a slight disagreement as Relationnel wanted to put them on top of a mound that has all sorts of vegetation on it already.  I couldn’t really see myself climbing up a mound every day to pick raspberries particularly when I get old and decrepit!

Now raspberries are the one thing I do know how to grow, because I had a long row in the garden of my house in the suburbs of Paris when the children were little. I couldn’t see why Relationnel wouldn’t let me plant them along the fence of the vegetable garden which is just perfect. It has a neat little path just in front to pick them. If you’ve ever had raspberry bushes, you’ll know that you have to get down on your hands and knees to pick the ones at the back so you really do need a path in front.

It seems Relationnel didn’t want to “waste” good ground on my raspberries. I asked him what else he wanted to plant, pointing out that he was using up most of the garden on his potatoes.  That seemed to solve the problem. So we agreed that I could put them along the fence up as far as a daisy bush that he wanted to keep. I was perfectly happy with that.

By then, we were very muddy and wet, particularly my hair which I had stupidly put in a ponytail sticking out the back of my cap. My inappropriate jeans were also falling down by then and I couldn’t pull them up again because of my excessively muddy gloves (thank god we bought those rubber ones!) I think I’ll buy some of those chic gardener’s overalls they sell at Le Prince Jardinier. My socks were soaked because my rubber clogs kept getting sucked into the mud and coming off. Rubber boots – that’s another thing we’ll have to bring down from the cellar in Paris.

We finished off planting the herbs halfway up the mound which is fine by me because I’ll still be able to snip off bits in my old age. At the end of the day, the sun came out and we were able to plant all the other things we had bought. I was also able to try out my nifty stool cum kneeler that we bought last time and that I had completely forgotten about! Good think Relationnel was there to remind me. What I hadn’t bargained for were the little beasties that headed for the gap between my socks and jeans when we were pulling out the  long weeds. I’ve been suffering ever since!

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