Breakfast at Caffè Florian, Palazzo Grimmani and dinner at Al Vecio Bragosso

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Seven years ago, we had an aperitivo on the terrace of the mythical Caffè Florian on Piazza San Marco, Venice’s oldest café, which dates back to 1720. This time, we’re having a late breakfast, but inside, surrounded by romantic art deco work. Yesterday’s beautiful sunshine has been replaced by thunder and rain.

Inside decor of Caffè Florian
Inside decor of Caffè Florian

Through the open window, we can hear the café’s live musicians, a wonderful way to start the day.

We order the Colazione Casanova, which consists of fresh blood orange juice, thick hot chocolate, croissants, toasted white bread with butter, honey and jam, yoghurt, fresh fruit salad and chocolate cake (38 euro).

Colazione Casanova at Caffè Florian
Colazione Casanova at Caffè Florian

The waiter asks if we want to share but Jean Michel looks alarmed so we take one each. No need for lunch! It isn’t as good as Angelina’s but we still enjoy it and the presentation is certainly worth it in any case. Most of the other people who come in order coffee and sometimes cake. One couple shares a Casanova.

Frescoes at Palazzo Grimani
Frescoes at Palazzo Grimani

The rain doesn’t let up all day so we mostly stay indoors. After our siesta, we go to visit Palazzo Grimani, built in the sixteen century and famous for its ancient Roman decor. The frescoes are impressive but the general effect is somewhat disconcerting with its somewhat eclectic ancient Roman marble doors and fireplaces.

Series of doors and alcoves in Palazzo Grimani
Series of doors and alcoves in Palazzo Grimani

The main advantage is that we buy a double ticket to include the Academia which means we won’t have to queue when we go there later this week.

The rain lets up and we are able to wander around a bit. We eventually come across a restaurant we remember well from our last visit, Hosteria Al Vecio Bragosso, recommended by the young man at our hotel and run by members of his family who told us that the fish served was very fresh because his cousins were fishermen.

Rainy view during our aperitivo
Rainy view during our aperitivo

After reserving a table, we have our aperitivo on the terrace of a small bar with an awning to keep off the rain which has started again in earnest. We try a soave this time instead of our usual pinot grigio and decide we like it better.

Jean Michel examining the menu at Hosteria al Vecio Bragosso
Jean Michel examining the menu at Hosteria al Vecio Bragosso

At Al Vecio Bragosso, the staff are very friendly and speak both French and English but still let me order in Italian which is part of the fun for me. We share a delicious raw fish dish of scampi, tuna, sea bream and prawns as a starter, then Jean Michel takes the mixed grill of fish while I have the fried fried fish, with grilled vegetables on the side, all of which are excellent.

It pales a little in comparison with as our first experience when we came with a recommendation and had several raw fish dishes off the menu, but we can still definitely recommend it. It’s best to book as it seems to be popular with the locals  and in several guidebooks.

Tomorrow we should have better weather – we hope so, in any case!

Hosteria Al Vecio Bragosso, Strada Nuova 4386 S.S. Apostoli, 30131 Venezia . 041.5237277. Closed Mondays.

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16 thoughts on “Breakfast at Caffè Florian, Palazzo Grimmani and dinner at Al Vecio Bragosso”

  1. Greetings from Oz. I have been enjoying your pictures of Venice as my own personal trip down memory lane. We were there during December so we basically had the place to ourselves as it is not tourist time. It was actually snowing the day we arrived and the canals looked like frozen coke slushies! When we arrived it was about 11:00pm and the hotel we were staying at only did breakfast and so being starving we bravely walked through the winding streets to a place that stayed open especially for us after the hotel called them for us. (they seem to be extra helpful for aussies!) please make sure you fit a visit the the Murano glass factory. My hubby bought a large vase for me and they package and send things through the post so that there is lovely surprise waiting for you when you get back from holidays. 🙂

    1. Hi Corrie and thanks for your comment. Having snow in Venice must have been an experience! Murano is on the list. We went there last time and loved it – also Burano and Torcello. Our home exchange hosts have recommended San Servolo as well. We might even run out of time.

  2. I’m taking notes Rosemary. Must have a Colazione Casanova, looks wonderfully decadent!

  3. You are so lucky to be in Venice (even if the weather isn’t great)! I love Venice, it’s the first city I visited in Europe and where I decided I wanted to live in this continent, I decision I’ve never regretted.

    Your breakfast and the cafe look so exquisite! Have a great time!

    1. Thank you! We don’t mind the weather – as long as it’s not raining all the time!

  4. I loved the Soave too! Did you eat the pasta al nero? That was such a cool culinary experience for me. Le sigh…now I want to go back to Venice!

    1. We did – but we stayed a while (and we didn’t have lunch). Yes, I have to admit is was €38 – but our only extravagence in Venice. We had two “fast” days …

      1. I haven’t fasted properly since I went to Australia and gained back most of the weight I lost. I was too stressed I think! I’m going to start again as I feel much better when fasting.

        1. Good luck! We’ve been fasting consistently for nearly a year now. Once it gets to the automatic stage, you find you can’t do without it. Let me know how you go.

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