The Basque mediaeval walled city of Hondarribia (Fontarabie in French and Fuentarribia in Spanish) which has been guarding Spain since the time of Charles V in the 16th century, is built on a little promontory facing Hendaye over the Txingudi bay. There is nothing in particular to visit but even on a rainy day, it’s interesting to wander through the narrow streets laid out on a grid plan with their wrought iron balconies. Afterwards, you can walk along the seafront into the old fisherman’s quarter on the west shore of the mouth of Bisasoa River, which has a much better selection of eating places.
The walled city of HondarribiaSanta Maria entranceMain street of HondarribiaGuipuscoa SquareOur Lady of the Asumption
Guipuscoa Square
Archway leading to Guipuscoa Square
View of the bay from the walled city14th to 15th century palace which is now a hotelTerrace café seen through a wrough-iron gate
Seafront with old town in the distance
Taberna Atetxea in the fishermen’s quartier where we had an enjoyable lunch on the top floor and ate gulas
The Basque Coast extends from Bayonne in France to San Sebastian or Donostia in Spain and contains some of the best surfing beaches on the Atlantic, the best known of which is Biarritz. There is a walking path from Ciboure to Hendaye with spectacular views that we were not able to take because of the rain but on the last day of our stay, the sun came out and we were absolutely enchanted by the coastal drive from Hondarribia to San Sebastian with its beautiful muted landscapes and plunging views.
BiarritzTaken from the heights of CiboureBetween CIboure and HendayeBetween CIboure and Hendaye with people this timeBetween Ciboure and HendayeBetween Ciboure and Hendaye with Jean de Luz in the background
Above HondarribiaCoast between Hondarribia and San SebastianBetween Hondarribia and San SebastianBetween Hondarribia and San SebastianBetween Hondarribia and San SebastianSan Sebastian
San Sebastian is an attractive city in the north west of Spain on the Bay of Biscay, 20 K from the French border in the Basque Country. Known as Donostia in Basque, it has an old part that mainly dates back to the 19th century when the town was rebuilt after being destroyed in 1813 during the Napoleonic wars. Its main appeal is its incredible location which can be seen best by mounting Urgull Hill on which the ruins of Napoleon’s military fortress still stand. Its second attraction is its ambiance of small bars serving pintxos (not as good as Barcelona though) and many cultural events. I was impressed by how many people of every age joined in the paseo in the late afternoon sun.
Typical Square on Alameda Boulevard just outside the old part of San SebastianTypical street in the old part of San SebastianConstitution Square – the numbers on the windows are a reminder of when it used to be an arenaChurch in the old part of townThe fishing port from Mount UrgullView as you climb up Mount UrgullView as you climb down the other side of Mount UrgullSoaking up the sun at a little bar at the end of the dayRelaxing on the waterfrontPaseo time along the waterfront
One of the things I like best about the Basque Coast is the architecture. The typical Basque home in the Saint Jean de Luz area where we’re staying is the Labourdine – white with dark red, dark green or blue half-timbering and shutters and red roof tiles. Although each house is different, it gives an overall coherence that appeals to my sense of the aesthetic.
Traditional architecture in Ciboure
The dark red was initially produced by coating the timber with ox blood reputed to protect it from insects and rot. The blue apparently was paint left over from the fishing boats but I haven’t been able to find out where the green comes from.
Blue details in Ciboure
The houses are usually quite big and built directly on the ground without cellars. The older ones have mullion windows, stone door surrounds and no shutters. The bottom floor was usually used as a stable.
One of the oldest houses in Ciboure with no shutters and mullion windows
There are very few houses older than the 16th century because of the many wars that raged in the area.
Narrow apartments in Bayonne
There are also a lot of very tall apartment houses, just one room wide, often separated from each other by stone columns to prevent fire.
Apartments in Ciboure with traditional details
Even the modern buildings are based on traditional architecture and are usually white with red, green or blue details. Railings and lampposts are often red too.
Traditional houses in Sare with greater presence of stone and green details
As you go further inland, stone is more present but the white and red combination is still very popular.
San Estebenia, Ravel’s birthplace, is on the right
In Ciboure, there are two notable exceptions : San Estebenia and Villa Leihorra.
San Esebenia is the Dutch-style housebuilt by shipowner Esteban d’Etcheto where the composer Maurice Ravel was born in 1875. Cardinal Mazarin was also a guest there when Maria Teresa of Spain married Louis XIV in 1660 in the nearby church of Saint Jean de Luz. Today, it houses the tourist office.
Art deco Villa Leihorra
Villa Leihorra, now a listed monument, was built by the architect Joseph Hinart in 1926 on Bordagain hill overlooking the Atlantic ocean, and is a prime example of Art Deco. It is now a luxury hotel and it’s worth taking a virtual tour.
Archway leading to Guipuscoa Square
