Tag Archives: Giverny

Monet’s Garden and Signac on a Rainy Day in May

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We had set the date to visit Monet’s garden well ahead, in the hope that the weather would be more promising. It turned out to be cool and occasionally sunny but mostly overcast.

Clematis in Monet's garden
Clematis in Monet’s garden

The drive from Paris takes about 1 ½ hours and we went directly to the parking lot next to the Musée des Impressionismes, which is an offshoot of the Orsay Museum today and holds special exhibitions. Signac was on the programme.

Signac exhibition
Signac exhibition

We bought our combined tickets for the museum and gardens, thus avoiding the inevitable queue to the gardens and house, and set off for through the village to the gardens, going in by the special “group” entrance down a side street. You can also jump the queue at the main entrance which takes you through the shop.

Just one variety of pansies
Just one variety of pansies

Each season has different flowers. In my last post on Monet’s garden, it was July, when the famous nympheas are in bloom. This time, there was wisteria over the famous green bridge, pansies, irises, gillyflowers, clematis and columbines in every size and colour imaginable.

Columbines
Columbines

I just love columbines (aquilega) and we don’t have any in our garden in Blois at all so I’m looking forward to choosing several different varieties.

Nymphea pond with the famous wisteria-covered bridge in the distance
Nymphea pond with the famous wisteria-covered bridge in the distance

For once, we didn’t get distracted by the shop on the way out. There are so many wonderful things to buy! Don’t you just love the Monet silk scarf a friend gave me for my 60th birthday?

My silk scarf of Monet's nympheas
My silk scarf of Monet’s nympheas

We walked back through the little town of Giverny with it’s charming houses and many restaurants to the museum where we were able to visit the Signac exhibition without jostling with the crowds we would have experienced in Paris.

A house in the village!
A house in the village!

We just had to keep away from one of the very loud guide whose comments were hardly worth listening to. Who really cares that Signac painted a cliff path whose existence can still be traced today? I was much more interested to hear another guide taking about the importance of picture frames particularly as we agonised over the right frame recently for our John Modesitt painting.

The nymphea pond
The nymphea pond

Signac is what is known as a neo-impressionst. He started painting in the early 1880s. He and Seurat developed the pointillist style. Signac painted a lot of coastal Mediterranean scenes (St Tropez, Collioure, Avignon) as well as the industrial areas of Paris, often in muted blues.

Monet's view from his bedroom window
Monet’s view from his bedroom window

The exhibition is on until 2nd July, so if you’re planning a visit to Giverny, make sure you combine the two.

How to get to Giverny : http://giverny.org/transpor/

Monday’s Travel Photos – Monet’s Garden in Giverny

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For years, I didn’t go to Monet’s garden in Giverny because I was told there were too many people. Now we go at least twice a year! The best time to visit is at lunch time, when there aren’t any groups and few people queuing. And to avoid the queues altogether, you can either go to the Impressionism Museum (an offshoot of the Orsay Museum) first and buy a double ticket, or buy your ticket on-line. Both the garden and museum are open from the beginning of April to the end of October. These photos were taken in July when the famous nympheas are in bloom, but every month is beautiful. The tulips in April are stunning and the roses in June are out of this world. Then you can eat outside under the trees at the historical Restaurant Baudy down the road (don’t forget to check the inside).

Nympheas in Monet's garden
Nympheas in Monet’s garden
You can see the famous bridge in the background
You can see the famous bridge in the background
Nymphea pond with fuscias in the foreground
Nymphea pond with fuscias in the foreground
From the other side of the nymphea pond
From the other side of the nymphea pond
I love the weeping willows
I love the weeping willows
The house from the nymphea garden
The house from the nymphea garden
From the bottom of the garden looking towards the house
From the bottom of the garden looking towards the house
Monet's house
Monet’s house
View from the window of Monet's bedroom
View from the window of Monet’s bedroom
Claude Monet Foundation, 84 rue Claude Monet: open every day from March 29th until November 1st included 2013 from 9.30 a.m. till 6 p.m. – last admission 5.30 p.m. http://fondation-monet.com/en/
 
Musee des impressionnismes Giverny, 99 rue Claude Monet: open March 29th to October 31st, 2013 every day
from 10am to 6pm last admission at 5:30pm. Open on Public Holidays www.museedesimpressionnismesgiverny.com
 
Restaurant Baudy, 81 rue Claude Monet – Musée Hôtel Baudy 27620, Giverny, Tel 02 32 21 10 03, http://www.restaurantbaudy.com/

Favourite Flowers

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Peonies are one of my favourite flowers. They don’t come out for long but as soon as they do, I buy them on the market on Sundays. I like the pale pink ones best. We have a bush growing in the garden of our “little house” (next door to our Renaissance home) in Blois but one’s definitely not enough so I’ll be planting more, maybe even trying my hand at cuttings. In the background of the photo, you can see the lovely watercolour that Black Cat brought back unharmed all the way from Australia at the end of her study year, despite the weight restrictions!

Another flower I love is the orchid and I’ve learnt how to make the flowers come back again the next year. Leonardo used to buy me one each year for my birthday in April and I was delighted when two of them reflowered recently. Brainy Pianist took up the tradition in Leonardo’s absence and added a beautiful specimen to my collection. When the flowers die, you cut the stalk off after the third “eye” and keep watering regularly. In September, put it outside if you can, to simulate the tropical winter, and next spring, you should see a little shoot appear! My little April violets have been reflowering each spring for many years now.

Tiny pansies are just so cute, with their delicate faces, and they come in every imaginable colour combination. I’m thinking about where I’ll grow them in Blois.  We came across these in a public garden bed when cycling near Château d’Ussé. Absolutely irresistable! It’s a favourite ride in the summer, as the road leading to the castle which is set up on a hill, is flanked with sunflowers in summer.

I’ve always dreamed of having a house with wisteria in front. Mr Previous Owner must have pruned ours at the wrong time this year because it looked very meagre compared with his photos of the house from last year and other specimens in the neighbourhood such as this one, in the very same street. Venice in the spring when the wisteria is in bloom is absolutely breathtaking as you can see if you click on the link to my Sunday’s Travel Photos.

 

Waterlilies and, in particular, the nympheas in Monet’s garden in Giverny, immortalised in the oval rooms in the Orangerie Museum in Paris, are something I love too. I have a special connection with waterlilies. When I was born, my father, a true romantic, went out to pick them for my mother. He was also the one who chose my name – Rosemary.

Relationnel is also a romantic. Before we lived in Paris, my ground-floor office, whose window looked out onto a little courtyard where I planted lots of flowering shrubs, was opposite a flower shop. Always when I was least expecting it, I’d see the florist coming towards me with a lovely bunch of fresh flowers courtesy of Relationnel who would phone her up from work. She always made sure they went in my special vase.

So, what are your favourite flowers?

Reflections from a Garret

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First French home in PauThat is the very corny title I gave to the diary that I started on my arrival in France on 1st October 1975. I had a corner room on the 3rd floor of a 4-story building in Pau in the Pyrenees. Hardly a garret but I guess I’d never been higher than the upstairs of our Queensland house on stilts. It also sounded very romantic of course. It cost me 220 francs a month – about 33 euros. Unbelievable isn’t it ? Through the window, I could see “the steeple and spire of St Martin’s Church which is very beautiful”. When I saw the church again last Easter, I was most disappointed!

I’ve lived in a few places since then. After my first year as an “assistant” English teacher in a high school, I had a very short stint working in a disturbed children’s home during which I shared a very cold house with another special needs teacher. Thank goodness it didn’t last long. I was hardly prepared for the job and certainly not trained. Fortunately, I got another year as an “assistant” in Nantes and lived in a teachers’ training college. I had my own room and shared a shower and kitchen with a couple of others girls. Most of the rooms were vacant, but I don’t know why.

After that I moved to Paris with my future husband in 1977 and we rented a two-bedroom flat in Fontenay sous Bois. I can remember having the impression of “playing house”. I’d go down to the market on my moped (which eventually got stolen for the second time) and join the other housewives, trying out new fruit and vegetables. But once I started going to uni on the other side of the city and audiotyping for two translators in between classes, I didn’t feel I was pretending any more! We lived there until 1984 when I was pregnant with Black Cat and working as a freelance translator. Leonardo was 2 ½.

We bought a house just down the road and Black Cat was born there. This time there really was an attic which eventually became my office. It wasn’t a very pretty house, I must admit, but I loved the fact that it had three floors and a long garden with raspberries and a very old acacia tree. The kids had a little wooden cubby house underneath it. There were also three beautiful old rose bushes with the most divine smell and huge thorns which sometimes bothered friends with small children but no one ever pricked themselves. The first year, there were masses of tulips in the garden. We didn’t know that mowing would remove them completely. Now I know better!

When I divorced, I had to sell the house, but I found a ground-floor flat on the edge of Fontenay with a little garden and lots of trees. After we married, Relationnel and I turned the garden into a “mini Giverny” as he called it and had so many barbecues that one of the neighbours eventually complained. I think they were just jealous! We also added enormous sliding glass doors between the living room and garden to make the most of the view. I moved my office to nearby Nogent sur Marne to make room for Thoughtful and Forge Ahead who used to come and stay every second weekend and half the school holidays. Our four children got on like wildfire to our great relief. During the 27 years I lived in Fontenay, I made many friends, all of them French and I often used to drop in and visit them.

The next move was to Paris in 2004. It was a golden opportunity in more ways than one and I can’t fault the location as my windows overlook the Palais Royal gardens, but I miss my own garden and my friends. A lot of my contacts these days are by phone or email. There is no one I can actually drop in to see. And I think I went to more exhibitions and plays when I lived in Fontenay than I do now though when we first came here, we spent a lot of time in the Louvre. I do love exploring my neighbourhood and trying out new restaurants, but I’m not a shopper, to the despair of Black Cat, so having the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps around the corner is not really a bonus. I do like having Book-Off down the road though, because it has a wonderful selection of second-hand English books at one or two euros a time.

Now that we have found our dream house in Blois, I feel I have new wings. I’ll have a garden again and trees and I already have a host of new friends waiting for me whom I can drop in to see from time to time. We can still come to Paris for the day if we want to or stay overnight – it’s only 200 kilometers away.

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