Don’t miss European heritage weekend in Paris on September 14 and 15

We’re about to miss the European heritage weekend in Paris for the second year in a row. However, we’ll be in Blois so I’m hoping to make some new discoveries.

Poster on the window of the Ministry of Culture with it's not very inventive graphics
Poster on the window of the Ministry of Culture with its not very inventive graphics

The wonderful thing about the heritage weekend or journées du patrimoine is that buildings usually closed to the public open their doors, mostly free of charge. One of the drawbacks is the crowds, particularly at venues such as the presidential palace at Matignon and Paris city hall (Hôtel de Ville).

The front of the Banque de France at n° 31
The front of the Banque de France at n° 31

But if you take a look at the list on the paris.fr website you’ll see that there are a lot of other places you’ve never heard of and that are definitely worth a visit.

Looking down to the fireplace with the bust of Louis XIV
Looking down to the fireplace with the bust of Louis XIV

One of my favourites, which is never crowded, particularly in the morning, is the French reserve bank or Banque de France, in the 1st arrondissement, which contains the beautiful Hôtel de Toulouse built in the mid 17th century by Mansart for Louis Phélipeaux, seigneur de la Vrillière and so called after it was bought in 1713 by the Count of Toulouse, the second legitimised son of Louis XIV and Madame de Montespan.

Inner courtyard seen from the Gallery
Inner courtyard seen from the Gallery

From the outside, it doesn’t look anything special, but it has several treasures, not the least of which is the Galerie Dorée or Golden Gallery, 40 m long by 6.50 m wide. It was initially designed to present De la Vrillière’s collection of Italian masters. When the Count of Toulouse came along, he kept the paintings and incorporated them into the new decor which is a stunning example of the Régence style.

End of the gallery leading to the main entrance
End of the gallery leading to the main entrance

The ceiling is a fresco by François Perrier and represents the sun surround by the four elements. In the centre, we have Apollo the sun god in his chariot, on the right of the door, Water represented by Neptune and Thetis, on the left, Air represented by Juno asking Aeolus to set the winds free. On the right of the magnificent fireplace, Earth represented by the abduction of Proserpine by Pluto and on the left, Fire represented by the cupids of Jupiter and Semele.

One of the sparkling clean chandeliers
One of the sparkling clean chandeliers

Mouldings, chandeliers, mythological allegories, trophies and animal motifs abound fully expressing the Régence style, which formed a transition between the rich solemnity of the Louis XIV style and the baroque elegance of Louis XV.

Wood panelling hiding a door into the Gallery
Wood panelling hiding a door into the Gallery

You’ll also see the Council Dining Room which its sculptured wooden panels which is thought to come from the former Château de Quincy-sous-Sénart, a hunting lodge owned by the Count of Provence, Louis XVI’s brother. This is definitely my favourite after the Golden Gallery.

Tapestries in the Council Room
Tapestries in the Council Room

But I also love the Council Room with its 5 Brussels tapistries from the mid 17th century, forming a sort of winter garden popular in Flanders throughout the century.

A close-up of Louis XIV
A close-up of Louis XIV

The beautifully decorated governor’s offices are also open to the public. The main entrance at n° 31 is through the new atrium, which is considered to be somewhat of a technological feat.

For those who won’t be in Paris next weekend, you might like to go on a virtual visit of the Golden Gallery on the website of the Banque de France.

Banque de France 31 rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs, 75001 Paris.
Saturday 14 and Sunday 15 September, 10 am to 7 pm (last entry at 6 pm)
 
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Monday’s Travel Photos – Palais Royal, Paris

Regular readers will know that I have the great fortune to actually live in the Palais Royal overlooking the fountain. I shall never tire of taking photos. Here are some taken on a sunny afternoon at the beginning of September. This time next year, we will be in the throes of moving permanently to Blois to live in our beautiful Renaissance home, Closerie Falaiseau which is currently a holiday rental.

Restaurant du Palais Royal
Restaurant du Palais Royal
You can just see the time canon on the right
You can just see the time canon on the right
I snapped this while the photographer was still getting ready
I snapped this while the photographer was still getting ready
Just relaxing!
Just relaxing!
Our appartment is directly opposite the fountain
Our appartment is directly opposite the fountain
Galérie Vivienne
Galérie Vivienne
Oysters on Sunday on our balcony
Oysters on Sunday on our balcony
Looking down towards rue de Beaujolais
Looking down towards rue de Beaujolais
Taken looking left from my balcony
Taken looking left from my balcony

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Friday’s French: bonne question

It took me a while to realise what bonne question actually means in French. Initially, I took it to literally mean “good question” as in English. But it’s not exactly the same.

For example, I asked the following question of an American company recently: “Can you tell me the difference between air conditioning and air treatment?”

The answer came back: “Good question! Air Conditioning typically refers to cooling the air while Air Treatment can refer to cooling, heating, filtering, purifying, humidifying or dehumidifying the air.”

I took that to mean that he thought my question was appropriate and that it was important to know the difference and that he knew what it was.

Now, in French, if someone says bonne question, it usually means that they haven’t the foggiest idea of the answer and are playing for time. They may have a stab (typically French, particularly if you are male) but by saying bonne question, they are telling you that it’s only guess work.

Before writing this post, I checked out the internet just to make sure I wasn’t making it up and was surprised to learn on www.urbandictionary.com that it can have the same meaning in English. Here’s the entry:

“That’s a good question: A phrase usually indicating that the speaker has absolutely no idea how to answer said question. Often used to stall for time.

Photography teacher walking in on students who should be at pep rally: What are you doing here?

Sreya: That’s a good question!”

So there you go. I know that whenever Jean Michel says bonne question that the question has never even occurred to him before and he certainly doesn’t know the answer.

How about you? What is your experience in the matter?

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Meet Kathy, a francophile with big dreams

I have often quoted paragraphs from Kathy Stanford’s blog Femmes Francophiles in my Wednesday’s Bloggers Round-up. Kathy’s permanent home is in Adelaide, but she comes to France as often as she can. In my contribution this month to My French Life, the global community & magazine for francophiles & French, I tell the fascinating story of how she manages to reconcile her love for France and her life in Australia. Enjoy!

Meet Kathy, a francophile with big dreams

kathyThirteen years ago, when she was preparing for a trip to France, Kathy became enthralled with the French language and culture.

This was the start of her French dilemma, because her home and husband are in Adelaide and her French connection has grown stronger with the passing years.

She began learning French at the Alliance Française in Adelaide to ressurect her dim memories of school French. She has done several courses in France; in Rouen, Toulouse and Vendôme – as well as Noumea. She has worked as a volunteer for the Alliance Française in Rouen. Read more

A safe travel guide for solo woman travellers – Scenery, sunshine and saddle bags on the Austrian Lakes – Paris-Orly train transfer tips

Another all-Australian bloggers round-up this Wednesday, with advice from the ever-practical Jo Karnaghan from Frugal First Class Travel on safe travel for solo women travellers; a report from Carolyn from   Holidays to Europe on her recent cycling tour in a different part of Austria from us; and tips on transferring from Orly airport to various train stations in Paris from A House in France, written by an Aussie couple living in the south of France. Enjoy!

Travelling safely – A guide for solo woman travellers

by Jo Karnaghan from Frugal First Class Travel, an Australian who loves to travel – especially in Europe – and who has gradually learned how to have a First Class trip on an economy budget, without missing out on anything!

travelling_safe_soloOne of my lovely readers, Linda, recently contacted me about hotels in Paris that would be safe for her as a solo traveller.  Now, most of the time I travel in Europe I also travel alone.  It therefore got me thinking about the things I do to make sure I keep myself safe when I’m travelling solo.  Travelling safely is an important travel skill to master, so here are my top tips for safe and confident solo travel:

1.  Pack light

I know, I say this all the time, but packing light is travelling safe.  If you pack lightly you have less stuff to worry about.  On the train, it is easier to keep track of your luggage. Read more

Scenery, sunshine and saddle bags: My Austrian Lakes cycling tour

by Carolyn from Holidays to Europe, an Australian based business passionate about sharing their European travel expertise and helping travellers to experience the holiday in Europe they have always dreamed of

st-gilgenThere are some countries that hold a special place in a traveller’s heart and to me, Austria is one of those places. So what better way to get a closer look at a part of Austria I hadn’t visited before than on a cycling tour? I spent nine fantastic days in July doing just that, discovering some wonderful scenery and an appreciation for ‘slow travel’ along the way.

After comparing a few different itineraries offered by various companies I selected the 9 day Austrian Lakes Hike and Bike tour sold through UTracks in Australia. One of the big sellers for me was the fact that this tour spends two nights at Hallstatt, a town I had long wanted to visit. As the itinerary featured both walking days and cycling days, it also gave me the opportunity to have a ‘rest’ day on the walking days should I decide to. Read more

Paris-Orly train transfer tips

by A House in France – 2 Aussies living part-time in France who share their experiences

Catch the C line to Orly AirportWe had always flown in and out of Paris from Charles de Gaulle (CDG) airport until recently.

Our regional train down to our house in central France departs from Gare d’Austerlitz, and on one of our many jaunts through that train station we noticed that there were signs indicating the way to catch a train to Orly airport.

So when we found some cheap flights departing from Orly we thought it would be a good chance to check it out and compare it with the ease of getting to and from CDG. Read more

A Therapeutic Ride along the Marne

It’s Black Cat’s last day in Paris before she goes to New York to look for a job. I’m delighted for her, of course, because she’s following her dream, just as I did 38 years ago, but I am very sad to see her go. We’ve decided not to say goodbye at the airport so we part ways in the street. I go back upstairs and try to work. When Jean Michel phones at five to say he’s finished for the day, I suggest we go cycling along the Marne.

Looking towards Pont de Bry
Looking towards Pont de Bry

The cycle path from Pont de Bry to the old chocolate factory in Champs sur Marne remains our favourite ride and is filled with happy memories of when we lived in Fontenay sous Bois and could easily go there at the end of the day.

And we love stopping off on the way back for a barbecued côte de boeuf at La Pergola.

The inauspicious façade of the Pergola
The inauspicious façade of the Pergola

As it’s the last Friday in August, there is very little traffic so we only take about three-quarters of an hour to get there. We’ve already phoned La Pergola to check they’re open and make sure our côte de boeuf will be ready when we arrive after cycling for an hour along the Marne. The owner recognises knows us as le couple en vélo even if we haven’t been there since last summer.

Swans on the Marne
Swans on the Marne

As soon as we get on our bikes, I start feeling better. It’s a lovely day and the Marne is full of swans. We ride down to the chocolate factory and back to La Pergola. Our favourite table in the garden is waiting for us.

The Pergola garden
The Pergola garden

The côte de bœuf arrives and it’s enormous. Since we began intermittent fasting in June , our appetite has diminished somewhat. We manage to finish it anyway particularly as the meat is delicious. Jean Michel even orders tarte tatin for dessert! Fortunately it doesn’t have any cream with it.

Wearing my headlight
Wearing my headlight

It’s completely dark by the time we finish and we still have a 20-minute ride back to the car so we don our headlights and windcheaters and off we go. On the way, we pass the other, more recently opened La Pergola with its bright neon lights. I think it’s an eyesore.

The other neon-lit Pergola
The other neon-lit Pergola

Next morning we’re not even remotely hungry so decide to have a fast day. Today is the first day of Black Cat’s new life! Good luck!

La Pergola, 87, promenade Hermann Régnier, 93460 Gournay Sur Marne, 01 43 05 36 56

Monday’s Travel Photos – the unexpected in Germany

These are photos of things I saw in Germany that were unexpected. They may not be typical of the country at all but I didn’t see them anywhere else!

Varnished tiles on a little building
Varnished tiles on a little building housing a fountain 
We were struck by how many houses and agricultural buildings had solare panels
We were struck by how many houses and agricultural buildings had solar panels 
Solar panels on a traditioanl barn in a village
Solar panels on a traditional barn in a village
I had never seen ice-cream cones like these before
I had never seen ice-cream cones like these before 
We came across this foot as we were cycling along the Danube
We came across this foot as we were cycling along the Danube 
This sign means that the car park is reserved for mothers with children
This sign means that the car park is reserved for mothers with children 
This dog was sitting on the end of a church pew
This dog was sitting on the end of a church pew 
I was surprised to see this cigarette vendor on a private fence
I was surprised to see this cigarette vendor on a private fence 

Friday’s French – special

Special is a very special word and very rarely translated by spécial in French and vice versa. Special est un mot très particulier qu’on traduit rarement par spécial en français et vice versa. Now that’s an easy meaning to translate. What is more difficult in finding an equivalent term when we want to talk about a special day or a special friend.

Huîtres spéciales which we eat every Sunday in season
Huîtres spéciales which we eat every Sunday in season

The Chambers Dictionary gives as synonyms: particular, peculiar, distinctive, exceptional, additional to ordinary, detailed, intimate, designed for a special purpose and confined or mainly applied to a particular subject. So first you’ll have to decide why your day or friend is special. You’d probably talk about une journée exceptionnelle and une amie intime.

A special offer, on the other hand, is quite simply une promotion.

So what does spécial mean? Does it ever have the same meaning in French and English?  Yes, in certain cases, it does.

Il a reçu une formation spéciale = He was given special training.

Elle a bénéficié d’une faveur spéciale = She was given a special favour.

Comme il n’y pas de conduite assistée, conduire une voiture ancienne c’est spécial = With no power steering, driving an old car can be challenging.

But spécial can have an entirely different meaning when applied to people. If we were to say elle est vraiment spéciale, I would mean that her mentality or behaviour is not within the norm. She has a strange/bizarre way of acting/looking at things. It is definitely not a compliment!

Spécial can also mean deviant. Il a des moeurs spéciales means that he has certain tendencies not elaborated upon and is a euphemism.

And, of course, huîtres spéciales are those lovely juicy oysters fattened in small numbers in deep oyster parks which have a sort of sweet salty lingering taste called noisette (hazelnut) in French.

Do you have other examples of special and spécial?

Le Comptoir des Petits Champs – a new restaurant experience in the 1st arrondissement in Paris

When Kathy from Femmes Francophiles suggests we have lunch together today, I ask if she can find something close by so I don’t take too much time off work. The downside of being my own boss is that the work doesn’t get done when I’m not there.

Fine and sunny in the Palais Royal gardens
Fine and sunny in the Palais Royal gardens

She suggests Le Comptoir des Petits Champs, just down the road from me. All I have to do is walk through the Palais Royal gardens, up rue Vivienne and left into Rue des Petits Champs. I’ve never heard of it, despite the fact that I must have walked past it hundreds of times over the past 7 years! I arrive a little ahead of Kathy around 12.30 and am pleased to see that only a couple of tables are taken. That’s because it’s still August and half of Paris is still off at the beach somewhere.

Le Grand Véfour seen through the window
Le Grand Véfour seen through the window

The friendly waiter takes me to the last of three window tables. I’m amazed to see I can see right through to the Palais Royal. How come I’ve never noticed this restaurant? I later learn that it is voluntarily discreet, to encourage a neighbourhood clientele. I probably shouldn’t even be writing this post …

The interior of Le Comptoir des Petits Champs
The interior of Le Comptoir des Petits Champs

I’m given some “reading material” but instead of studying the menu, I look out the window and discover that I have a balcony view of the Gardens and the Grand Véfour, one of the oldest and most prestigious restaurants in the area.

Kathy soon arrives so we look at the menu. At lunchtime, it’s 14 euro for a main course only, 20 for entrée + main or main + dessert and 26 for all three. An entrée or main is 10 euro. At night, it’s 19 euro for a main, 27 for entrée + main or main + dessert and 35 for all three.

Kathy's salmon
Kathy’s salmon

I choose sword fish tartare served with sucrine lettuce, croutons and capsicum while Kathy has fresh salmon on a bed of cooked vegetables. We choose a glass of white from the south of France to go with it. It’s not a wine I know so the waitress immediately offers to let me taste first.

Café gourmand
Café gourmand

We follow with a café gourmand consisting of a mini-financier, a slice of one of the best moelleux au chocolat I’ve had for a long time, a small cream tart and a lemon mousse for me and strawberry mousse for Kathy, because I’m not a strawberry fan. The service throughout is discreet and friendly.

The discreet exterior of Le Comptoir des Petits Champs, with its old TV (and our reflections!)
The discreet exterior of Le Comptoir des Petits Champs, with its old TV (and our reflections!)

When we leave, I take a photo of the outside and marvel that I have never noticed it. Kathy did because she was intrigued by the old television set in the window!

Despite the fact that Paris is full of restaurants and there are a lot in our area (1st and 2nd arrondissements), we don’t often find a new one that we consider it’s worth going back to. Either it’s too expensive or the food isn’t wonderful or the service is not up to scratch. As a result, we have a little handful we return to regularly depending on what we want that particular day.

Le Comptoir des Petits Champs will be joining the list.

Le Comptoir des Petits Champs, 17 Rue des Petits Champs,  75001 Paris, 01 42 96 47 54. Open 7 days a week.

from the Tropics to the City of Light