Category Archives: Cycling

Cycling, France, Home exchange, Sightseeing

Cycling on the Basque Coast #1 – Ups and Downs

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The first day in our home exchange in Ciboure on the Basque Coast gets off to a good start with breakfast on the terrace overlooking the Pyrenees. There’s so much sun we even have to open up the awning.

Breakfast on the terrace
Breakfast on the terrace

After breakfast we go into the centre of Ciboure to buy fresh fish directly from the stalls representing the people who caught it. We choose a dorade rose (red sea bream) which is supposed to be the best of the sea bream family.

Ciboure
Ciboure

We then go to the Coopérative Maritime which sells clothing brands such as Saint James, Cap Marine and Armor Lux, very popular on the coast in France,particularly in the summer. I find a navy zippered cotton cardigan which will be perfect for cooler evenings by the sea.

Typical Basque architecture, even for recent homes
Typical Basque architecture, even for recent homes

We go home and change into our cycling gear and set off by car to join the cycle path to Bayonne, a nice easy ride for the second day of the holidays. Jean Michel tries a couple of different places and then decides it’s the right one. Theoretically we’ve cycled along this path before but I don’t recognise it. But that’s not surprising – I don’t remember a lot of places we’ve been …

A stop along the hilltop cycle path
A stop along the hilltop cycle path

Instead of the flat path I thought we were taking, it starts with a steep hill. OK, I think, now it’s going to get flatter. But it doesn’t. We whizz downhill which is always worrying because there is inevitably a hill going up on the other side. Jean Michel then realises he’s somehow confused Saint Jean de Luz with Biarritz and the roller coaster bike path is not going to stop for quite some time. I groan inwardly.

View from the hilltop path
View from the hilltop path

The coastal scenery is admittedly very beautiful but I’m so busy changing gears that I can’t really take it in. I also can’t take many photos because there is no way I’m going to stop on the way up a slope or I’ll never get going again. Also, my first gear isn’t working which doesn’t make things any easier.

Le O restaurant, Plage de Cenitz, Guéthary
Le C restaurant, Plage de Cenitz, Guéthary

After a while, I realise that if we don’t stop soon, we’ll never get lunch. It’s already 1.30. I see a sign that says “restaurant” just before another hill. We’ve only done 6 ½ kilometers but I’m exhausted. The road goes downhill and we come to a concrete building with a sort of garden tent attached to it and tables and even deckchairs on the grass in front, with a stunning view of the sea.

Tables and deck chairs on the grass at Le O
Tables and deck chairs on the grass at Le C, Cenitz Plage Guéthary

We don’t hesitate. I go inside to find a table as there are no sunshades over the outside tables and it’s about 28°C in the sun. I gradually start to recover and my beetroot shade slowly disappears (I’m not burnt as I’ve slathered on sunscreen). I look at the menu. Twenty euro for harmburger meat and French fries seems a little exaggerated.

Café gourmand at Le O
Café gourmand at Le O

Then I spy the set menu for 19 euros – dish of the day, a glass of wine (will I ever get up the slope?) and café gourmand. The dish of the day is Spanish: small sweet peppers stuffed with garlic cream and cod, served with rocket. Sounds perfect. The waiter very sweetly brings us bread and some sort of spread while we’re waiting.

Jean Michel congratulates me on all the hills and suggests we go back to the car, load the bikes again and go to the place he meant to go to in Biarritz in the first place. Sounds like a good idea to me. I manage to cycle back up and down the hills, only getting off and pushing the bike twice.

The flat path
The flat path

When we finally get to the flat bike path, I’m not sure my legs are going to cooperate. But apart from a few initial undulations, the bike path really is flat. It’s also shady and I begin to wonder whether I was right to leave our sweat shirts in the car. After those horrible hills, it seems dead easy though. The sky isn’t as blue as it was when we started out.

Along the Adour near Bayonne
Along the Adour near Bayonne

At Bayonne, we find the café where we had a cold drink last time we cycled from Biarritz, next to the Adour River with a lovely view of the old town opposite. Afterwards we cycle around a bit. The sky is looking more and more threatening so we decide we’d better start making tracks.

On the quayside in Bayonne
Having a drink on the riverside in Bayonne

We stop and put our jean shirts on. The tide is turning and the air is much cooler. We hope it won’t start raining before we get back to the car because we obviously don’t have our rain capes. About 3 K before we reach our destination, we feel the first drops. We’re nearly back at the car when they start getting heavier and, thankfully, IN the car when it really starts to rain.

Storm brewing on the cycle path
Storm brewing on the cycle path

However, it doesn’t last that long and we follow the coast road back to Saint Jean de Luz, congratulating ourselves on not having to go up and down all those hills again.

AllAboutFranceBadge_bisThis post is part of the Lou Messugo monthly All About France blog link-up. For other entries, click here

Cycling, Flowers & gardens, Loire Valley, Restaurants

Deer and Orchids in Our Little Wood in Blois

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This morning when we got up, Jean Michel called me from the bathroom whose first floor window overlooks the little wood behind our house which is part of our property. “Un chevreuil à côté du neflier”. Mr and Mrs Previous Owner told us we could see deer in the wood at dawn and dusk but this was 8.30 and unexpected. By the time I got to the window, it had disappeared behind the nearby apple tree.

Cherry blossoms
Cherry blossoms in our little wood

I dashed off to get the binoculars and was rewarded by seeing quite a large animal sprint past the medlar tree and out of sight. By the time we tried to pick our medlars last year, there were none left on the tree, but I certainly don’t mind. I’d much rather the deer ate them. Maybe next time I’ll be quick enough to get a photo.

Daisies in our wood
Daisies in our wood

We love our little wood. Last time we were here, it was covered in daffodils. Now there our flowering apple, cherry, quince and lilac trees and decorative broom.

Touraine orchids
Touraine orchids

On the ground are wild Touraine orchids (two colours), bluebells, tiny white daisies, buttercups, dandelions and periwinkles. Mr Previous Owner had told us about the orchids but we didn’t see them last year probably because we didn’t know what they looked like. But thanks to Susan from Days on the Claise, this year, I’ve observed three species.

Lilac in bloom at Closerie Falaiseau
Wisteria in bloom at Closerie Falaiseau

At the front of the house, the wisteria is in bloom, much more impressive than last year. We’re both relieved and delighted because we were worried that we’d pruned it too late. The drive into Blois along the Loire is sheer delight at the moment with masses of wild lilac and lots of beautiful wisterias which remind me of Venice in the spring time.

Lilac outside the gate
Lilac outside the gate

We have an enormous lilac opposite the house on the vacant land leading down to the Loire. We often park the car next to it and the scent is overwhelming. I hope it will still  be in bloom next weekend so I can take some back to Paris.

Water on the bike path along the Loire from Blois to Saint Dyé
Water on the bike path along the Loire from Blois to Saint Dyé

After spending the day mowing and weeding yesterday, we finally found time to go cycling along the Loire to Saint Dyé late afternoon. Wild broom and apple trees dotted our path. Halfway along, though, our bike path suddenly came to a stop. Jean Michel had been noticing how high the river is this year after all the rain and our path was completely under water so we had to turn back.

Wild broom along the Loire
Wild broom along the Loire

As it turned out, I think 20 K was probably enough for our first bike excursion since last September. My sore thighs and rear end are appreciating the rest today as we drive from Blois down to Ciboure on the Basque coast, just across the estuary from Saint Jean de Luz.

Air ballon near Vallères
Air ballon near Vallères

As a fitting end to the day, we went to a restaurant we’d seen in Valaire (15 minutes by car from Blois) when cycling on another occasion and on the way, spotted the first air balloons of the season. L’Herbe Rouge is just the sort of restaurant I like – unpretentious, frequented by the locals with fresh food, a touch of originality and friendly service. The waiter turned out to be English but has been here for many years.

L'Herbe Rouge
L’Herbe Rouge

I had candied capsicums with fresh Corsican cheese while Jean Michel had avocado and prawns, followed by sirloin steak and French fries for Jean Michel and fennel purée for me as I am need to lose a couple of winter kilos to fit into my summer clothes again! Then we shared a serving of cheese cake for dessert. We chose a local chinon which we bought by the glass, followed by a decaff each. The bill came to 65 euro.

L'Herbe Rouge in Vallères
L’Herbe Rouge in Vallères

I’m looking forward to going back there when the weather is warmer to eat on the terrace.

L’Herbe Rouge, restaurant and wine bar, Valaire 41120, 02 54 44 98 14. Open from 12 to 2 pm and 6 to 9.30 pm Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Sunday night (except July and August) and Monday.
Cycling, France, French customs, Travelling

Nice celebrates May – Paris to Mont St-Michel By Bike – Real life one bag travel

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Welcome to Wednesday’s Blogger Round-up, on 1st May this time, so very appropriately, Phoebe from Lou Messugo introduces us to the May Day celebrations in the city of Nice. Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike reports on the Paris to Mont St-Michel bike route while Jo from Frugal First Class Travel gives us a packing list for spring travel in Europe that goes into a rolling backpack. Enjoy!

Lu Festin de Nissa – Nice celebrates May

by Phoebe from Lou Messugo, a traveller, francophile, expat, mum and foodie now living in Roquefort les Pins where she runs a gîte after many years of travelling and living in Asia, Eastern Europe and Australia.

Lu-Festin-de-NissaOn the 1st of May and then every Sunday throughout the month, Nice celebrates the arrival of spring.  This custom dates back to Roman times when a “Mai” (a large pine tree felled in the nearby forest) was displayed in a temple and decorated with garlands of flowers and laurel leaves.  Over the centuries the celebrations evolved to include dancing around the Mais placed in symbolic locations in the old town, while eating local specialities and playing “pilou” or “vitou” (two traditional Niçois games).  A May Queen is usually elected too. Read more

Veloscenic Cycle Route Update: Paris to Mont-St-Michel by Bike

by Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history

veloscenicIf you are planning to be near Paris or Mont St-Michel this summer, and you are looking for a challenging bike adventure, look no further than the Veloscenic, one of the newest long distance bicycle routes.  The resources for the Veloscenic have improved a lot since the last time I updated the route last summer.  The main benefit for those interested in the route is that the website is finally available in English, and it is full of helpful information on stages of the route and other information to help with trip planning. Read more

Real life one bag travel – my packing list for spring in Europe

by Frugal First Class Travel, an Australian who loves to travel – especially in Europe – and who has gradually learned how to have a First Class trip on an economy budget, without missing out on anything!

rolling-backpackI’m always working on ways to refine my packing and work out how to take even less on my travels.  So I’m approaching things a bit differently on my upcoming trip.  It’s early spring and things are still pretty cold so I need to pack warm.  I’ve bought a new bag (a rolling backpack).  It’s much lighter than my old international carry on, but on the downside it’s quite a bit smaller.  So, I need a tight list of multitasking clothing that will take me from a week in London for a work conference, to a weekend in the South of France and four days of walking in the Cinque Terre with perhaps a day trip to posh Portofino.  All that will need to fit into my new, tiny bag. Read more

Cycling, Paris, Restaurants

Change of Plans in Snowy Paris – New EuroVelo Website Launched – Updated Restaurant Guides

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This week’s blogger round-up features three very different posts. Carolyn Barnabo from My Sydney Paris Life, unable to take the Eurostar back to Great Britain, perfectly echos what a lot of  us in Paris feel about yet another fall of snow. Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike brings us one of her usual exhaustive cycling posts, this time on launching of the new EuroVelo website, while Abby from Paris Weekender, oblivious to the snow – but then, she’s in New York at the moment – has updated her very useful Paris restaurant and bar guides which I strongly recommend that you download. Enjoy!

Change of Plans in Snowy Paris

by Carolyn Barnabo from My Sydney Paris Life, writing about global families and change and life in special geographic places that have captured her heart.

eiffel_towerMarch snow in Paris. No Eurostar. No UK friends to greet at Gare du Nord.

What else to do when the weather thwarts our plans than venture outside for a walk in the quartier? We last enjoyed a snowy walk in January, which seemed appropriate then. The 12th of March isn’t that late but still, today’s snow seemed out of place to me, perhaps because Saturday — was it only three days ago? — was so wonderfully warm. Read more

New EuroVelo Website Launched

by Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history

eurovelo_networkBicycling in Europe just keeps getting better and better!  The European Cyclists’ Federation has announced the debut of the new EuroVelo website, a long-awaited resource for the long distance European cycling network.

As promised, the new website will be a great source of information for trip planning on the 14 EuroVelo routes.  Each of the EuroVelo routes will have its own page with information ranging from route maps showing the status of stages along the route, lodging and support services and things to see along the way.  There will also be links to more detailed information from each country along the route.  The website is available in German, French, Dutch and English. Read more

Updated Restaurant Guides

by Abby from Paris Weekender, an American living in Paris who offers suggestions for Paris weekends, either staying put or getting out of town

It’s that time again – time to share my latest Paris food & drink finds. Below are the latest bars and restaurants that I have added to my guides. As always, “**” signifies some of my real favorites. Purchase the updated print-ready PDFs of my bar and restaurant guides, as well as my Mini Guide to Paris here.

French:

  • L’absinthe (1st) 24, Place Marché St Honoré, Tel. 01 49 26 90 04. Located in the lively Place Marché St Honoré, this restaurant offers friendly service and a mix of traditional and modern cuisine in a traditional setting. Outdoor seating also available. Read more
Accommodation, Architecture, Austria, Cycling, Restaurants, Sightseeing

My Croatian Itinerary – Part 8: Innsbruck, Austria

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This is a continuation of our Croatian itinerary which I last wrote about 13 years ago! It was under drizzling rain that we left Ljubljana in Slovenia for Innsbruck in Austria. After several inexplicable traffic hold-ups at the borders between Slovenia and Austria and Austria and Germany, we went past a beautiful freshwater lake called Chiemsee between Salzbourg and Munich, which seemed the ideal place to have lunch. In the little village of Chieming, we found the Café Chieming, a delightful little place right on the water next to a landing stage where we ate an excellent salad and watched the boats on the river.

Landing stage from Chieming Café Landing stage from Chieming Café

When we arrived at Gasthaus Koreth in Innsbruck at about 4 pm, we were delighted to find that it had a balcony with a wonderful view, a very spacious bedroom and easy parking. It took us about a half an hour to walk down a hill and into the middle of the town along the river Inn. We fell in love with Innsbruck immediately with its typical painted façades and beautiful frescoes. Before going any further, you might like to have a look at a previous post: Sunday’s Travel photos: Innsbruck.

Inn River in Innsbruck

We had our aperitif in front of Saint Jacob’s cathedral, originally Gothic but now converted to Baroque but were too late to visit the inside. At Friedrich Square, which was literally thronged with people, we admired the beautiful façades, and particularly the Little Golden Roof, then had dinner at the nearby Ottoburg restaurant. The food was expensive and nothing special, but it’s worth going upstairs to have a look at the lovely timber ceilings.

Corner of Herzog-Friedrich Strasse Corner of Herzog-Friedrich Strasse

The next morning, after a disappointing breakfast, we walked back into the city, this time on the other side of the river until we got to a covered market which surprisingly had a supermarket inside! They had a huge variety of mushrooms including an enormous puffball. We wandered through the streets admiring the many 17th century palaces with their lovely façades. The mountains with their misty peaks are never far away.

Façades of 17th century palaces in Innsbruck Façades of 17th century palaces in Innsbruck

We visited the Hoffkirche with the tomb of Maximilian 1st and its 28 two-metre high bronze statues which were quite stunning and my most vivid memory of Innsbruck. The details were amazing, particularly the women’s long braids. There was even a face on the back of the elbow of one of the men.

Bronze statues in Hoffkirche Bronze statues in Hoffkirche

On the way back from the hotel, we found an excellent restaurant with an outdoor eating area obviously frequented by the local office workers. I don’t remember the name but when you’re walking along the riverside footpath on the south bank it’s the last restaurant on the left before you get to the bridge!

Riverside restaurant Riverside restaurant

After a little siesta, we took our bikes and followed a perfectly flat bike path along the Inn and out of the town, flanked by high mountains and stunning scenery in every direction. We cycled as far as Kranebitten and came back along on the other side of the river, doing about 20 K in all. We were glad of a glass of Riesling and some delicious bruschetta at an outdoor table near the covered market.

Cycle path outside Innsbruck Cycle path outside Innsbruck

We didn’t get back to the hotel until 8 pm so decided to eat in the Gasthof dining room. The food was excellent and the owner spoke French. Much better than the meal the night before!

Gasthof Koreth in Innsbruck Gasthof Koreth in Innsbruck

The next morning, we set out for our next destination: Germany, via Lichtenstein.

Next instalment – Germany The itinerary so far: Paris – Annecy – Milan – Ancona – Split – Mostar – Dubrovnik – Sibenik – Zadar – Plitvice Lakes – Porec and Pula – Ljubljana – Innsbruck.

My Croatian Itinerary – Part 1: Paris to Milan

My Croatian Itinerary – Part 2: Milan

My Croatian Itinerary – Part 3: Ancona

My Croatian Itinerary – Part 4: Split, Mostar & Dubrovnik

My Croatian Itinerary – Part 5: Sibenik, Zadar & Plitvice

My Croatian Itinerary – Part 6: Porec & Pula in Istria

My Croatian Itinerary -Part 7: Ljubljana in Slovenia

My Croatian Itinerary – Part 8: Innsbruck, Austria

My Croatian Itinerary – Part 9: Lichtenstein & the Rheinfall

Cycling, France, Travel photos

Monday’s Travel Photos – Saint-Valery-sur-Somme

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Baie de la Somme, which is at the mouth of the Somme River in Picardy, is a delightful little town that goes back to Roman times. It still has an abbey church, a sea lock, a stone tower, ramparts and small winding streets. It has a colourful market on Sunday mornings that often extends along the waterfront. It has lovely light and attracted artists such as Sisley and Degas who both had villas there. Baie de Somme is one of our favourite cycling areas and is a good stop on the way down from Boulogne to Dieppe, for example. It’s also an easy weekend trip from Paris.

Abbey church taken in the other direction
Abbey church taken in the other direction

Abbey church with its checkerboard pattern
Abbey church with its checkerboard pattern

Entrance through the old remparts
Entrance through the old remparts

Estuary
Estuary

Lovely old school
Lovely old school

Turn-of-the-century steam train
Turn-of-the-century steam train

Estuary view
Estuary view

Estuary view showing early 20th century seaside houses
Estuary view showing early 20th century seaside houses

You can see the other side of the estuary
You can see the other side of the estuary

 

 

Australian customs, Cycling, Food, French customs, Loire Valley, Paris, Travelling, Wine

Celebrating Christmas in France – Great Resources To Help Plan Your Bike Trip to France – Wineries/les vignobles

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My Wednesday’s bloggers’ round-up this week starts with fellow Australian Kathy Stanford from Femmes Francophiles who’s been having a holiday from blogging but after a recent trip to France, she’s fortunately back on the job. So I’m starting with her authentic experience of Christmas in France with a French family. Next Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike lists resources to plan a bike trip in France, including my beloved Loire Valley. Jill from Gigi’s French window, also Australian, compares cellar doors in France and Australia. Nothing could be more different! Enjoy!

Celebrating Christmas in France

by Kathy Stanford from Femmes Francophiles, an Australian who an ongoing passion for France and the French language just back in Australia from two months in France

christmas_femmes_francophilesMy love for La France is intrinsically linked with my passion for food. I have been extremely spoilt in staying with Valérie who is a generous and wonderful cook. In France the main meal at Christmas time is usually on Christmas Eve. Valérie’s son Grego offered to prepare this meal. Having lost weight for a film role he had been dreaming about an extra special Christmas Eve dinner. He devised the dishes, bought the ingredients and then he and Valérie worked as a team to create the dishes.

We started with champagne, foie gras on toast, radishes, carrot, foie gras and fig macarons from Pierre Hermé. I was rather sceptical about the foie gras and fig macarons as I have only ever known macarons as a sweet rather than something savoury. They however worked very well. I even bought some for New Year’s Eve. Read more

Great Resources To Help Plan Your Bike Trip to France

by Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history

usseCyclotourism is getting to be big business in Europe, worth somewhere around 45+ billion Euros per year to the European economy.  This is great for you and me because countries like France, (and Germany, Austria and Switzerland) want our business.  Their improving their marketing efforts and they are rapidly stepping up efforts to provide better information on major routes.  Don’t get too excited, this doesn’t mean that you will have an easy time finding information on all major itineraries.  But it does mean that access to better information is improving, more of it’s offered in English, and the result is easier trip planning. To kick off the new year and bike trip planning season, let’s take a look at several major websites to see how they can help you decide where to go and where to bike. Read more

Wineries/les vignobles

by Jill from Gigi’s French Window, French ponderings from an Australian who must have been French in another life

lulu coco gigi 165This year I have decided to search out and enjoy all sorts of ‘french experiences’ right here in the land down under…

I made a start last weekend by  visiting a local winery…well it was an hours’ drive away, but I didn’t have to take a 2 day trip across the world!

But first some ‘pics’ to compare….

Last May, the ‘travelling bridesmaids’ and I went for a beautiful Sunday stroll along the tiny winding roads of Cassis,  southern  France.  We thought we would try a wine tasting, have lunch..you know  how it goes….well the walk was fabulous, the scenery amazing…but none were open to the public!  It seems that tourism doesn’t come into play with french vineyards..(these ones anyway) .I think it must be all too serious a business for  that! Read more (and don’t forget to read the comments as well)

Cycling, France, French language, Spain

Croc Monsieur: Meet Adam Ruck, The Man Who Cycles in Crocs! – One man’s faith – a visit to Sagrada Familia, Barcelona – English French words

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Some interesting posts this Wednesday on very different subjects. Stephanie, the Llamalady from Blog in France, interviews English cyclist Adam Ruck, author of France on Two Wheels, about his bike trip across France. Australian blogger Frugal First Class Travel, whom I discovered recently, describes the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. She also has lots of tips for winter travelling. Regina from Petite Paris, the Australian website that has all those wonderful B&Bs in Paris, talks about all the French words that exist in English. Enjoy!

Croc Monsieur: Meet Adam Ruck, The Man Who Cycles in Crocs!

Interview by Stephanie, the Llamalady, from Blog in France

with Adam Ruck, author of France on Two Wheels “… a terrific guide to the culture, history, food, B&Bs and other French delights”. He also blogs on cycling and skiing in Adam’s Blog

adamloire-300x218It’s amazing who you meet on Twitter. Through my @llamamum account, I happened across Adam Ruck, author of France on Two Wheels. As a keen cyclist, I’m always interested to find out about fellow cyclists so I contacted Adam and asked if he’d write a guest post for me. And here it is.

Many travel books start as a publishing or fundrasing idea, and most travel articles start as that ghastly word, an angle. Others develop out of a real holiday or journey, and my book, France on Two Wheels, falls into that category.

A friend rang me to say he was looking for someone with whom to ‘bicycle’ (he does hate the word ‘cycle’ unless applied to washing machines or the economy) to or from Switzerland. I agreed to the return trip. Read more

One man’s faith – a visit to Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

by Frugal First Class Travel, an Australian who loves to travel – especially in Europe – and who has gradually learned how to have a FirstClass trip on an economy budget, without missing out on anything!

sagada_familiaI’m not a religious person.  In fact I’m a card carrying atheist.  But I couldn’t help but be so moved when I recently visited the Sagrada Familia – the Gaudi designed Basilica in Barcelona.  Building has been underway for over 100 years now, and there are plans (hopes?) to complete the works in time for the centenary of Gaudi’s death in 2026.

Gaudi was a very religious man apparently, and it was this faith that drove him to spend the bulk of his life (and indeed until the end of his life) dedicated to this project.  But the Sagrada Familia is not just a testament to religious faith.  Regardless of your own spiritual beliefs, consider this:

Gaudi knew the church would never be completed in his own lifetime, but he did it anyway. Read more

English French Words

by Petite Paris, an Australian-based service for Australian travellers and fellow Francophiles

It’s incredible (“uncreaaabl”) how many English words are actually French!! And every single one of them sounds so chic (oops there’s one) and glamorous!! Décor, couture, décolletage, negligee, deja vu, rendezvous, fiancé, boutique, bric-a-brac, encore…

At this moment I am listening to my Michel Thomas audio – learning to speak French without any memorizing, writing, homework or even trying for that matter. It’s brilliant! No pressure to learn, just listening and ‘hearing’ what your listening to. Its amazing how it flows in and stays there – the next thing you know your constructing sentences in your head with so much ease it couldn’t possibly be normal. Its a practical and modern method of teaching. I highly recommend it!! [AND SO DO I – Fraussie] Read more

Cycling, France, French language, Paris, Restaurants

In search of a quincaillerie – Festival du nouveau mot – Bicycling The Burgundy Canal for 100 Euro A Day

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Three very different posts for this Wednesday’s bloggers’ round-up: Abby from Paris Weekender takes us on what seems like a wild goose chase to a large number of Paris quincailleries; LLamalady from Blog in France tells us about a wonderful competition to suggest new words in French; while Experience France by Bike describes one of her favourite cycling itineraries – the Burgundy Canal. Thank you one and all!

In search of a quincaillerie

by Abby from Paris Weekender, an American living in Paris who offers suggestions for Paris weekends, either staying put or getting out of town

I am in the home stretch of apartment renovations on my new Paris apartment. Last weekend, I had hoped to move in, but due to delays in the completion of the renovations, I found myself with a free weekend in Paris and not much desire to sit in my temporary studio wasting it away.

I thought I would make myself useful and offer to help my interior architect with any job she could give me to make less work for herself (and of course, speed up the process). She asked if I could pick up handles for my cabinets and sent me the specifications and quantities. Read more.

Festival du Nouveau Mot – OR  How to Make Up French!

by Llamalady, an Irish llama and alpaca breeder living in the centre of France, who also runs a carp fishery and a holiday gite

As an expat, I often make up French words. The word I need totally escapes me, generally because of a modicum of stress induced by trying to not appear a bumbling dimwit in front of one of the kids’ teachers or the bank manager or someone equally authoritative. There seems no quick way to find an alternative description so, since all else fails, I shamelessly Frenchify the English one I’m trying to translate. You know the sort of thing – ‘J’ai forgetté’ intead of ‘J’ai oublié’ or ‘Le steering roue’ for steering wheel (le volant). And amazingly, occasionally it actually works! Read more

Bicycling The Burgundy Canal for 100 Euro A Day

by Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history

If you are looking for the perfect deviation for an upcoming trip to Paris, look no further than Burgundy, specifically the Burgundy Canal.  One of my favorite starting points along the canal is Montbard, just over 1 hour, but light years from busy Paris.  Just a few steps from the train station you can rent a bike and quickly immerse yourself in Burgundian history, enjoy cycling along car-free bike paths, eat local Burgundy specialities, and visit picture-perfect medieval towns all at a fraction of the cost of one day in Paris.  Bicycling along the Burgundy Canal is one of my favorite itineraries in France. Read more 

Accommodation, Art, Cycling, France, Paris

Where do you ride your bicycle? Velib in Paris and Hubway in Boston want to know! – escaping the tourist trail in Paris

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In this week’s Bloggers’ Round-up, Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris compares Vélib in Paris and Hubway in Boston while Caroline Lee from Escape to Paris shares her experience of staying in an unusual and little-known place in Paris. Let’s join them!

Where do you ride your bicycle? Vélib in Paris and Hubway in Boston want to know!

by Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris, an American by birth, Swiss by marriage, resident of Paris with a Navigo Pass for the metro that she feels compelled to use

With over 20,000 bicycles, the Vélib public bike sharing system is well on its way to becoming as synonymous with Paris as the Eiffel Tower. No matter the time of year or the weather, it’s easy to spot enthusiastic cyclists crossing the Pont St. Louis or making their way precariously around the Place de la Concorde. Whenever I see an impeccably dressed woman in a skirt and high heels or a man balancing a large musical instrument on the back of his bicycle, I always want to ask where they’re headed. It seems that I’m not the only one who wants to know because the official website for the city of Paris recently posted a slide show of people who responded to the question, “Tu vas où avec ton Vélib’?” (Where do you go with your Velib?”). My favorite answer was by a couple from New York who said, “We’re wandering around without a precise destination today. Maybe we’ll go to the Luxembourg or the Tuileries, we’ll see.” Read More

escaping the tourist trail in Paris…

by Carolyne Lee, from Escape to Paris, an Australian writer, teacher, and researcher who tries to spend every spare moment in France.

Passing through Paris not long ago, on my way to Toulouse, I needed a bed for a night, and stayed in a miniscule but lovely studio in a three-storey house in a street which my Paris friends later told me they had never heard of! It also seemed that tourists hadn’t heard of it, although as well as L’Hotel Particulier, where I stayed, I noticed another of the houses functions as a hotel, Hotel Mignon, mignon translating as ‘cute’. That certainly describes the whole street. It’s rue Cremieux, close to the Gare de Lyon, a street of former workers’ houses, now gentrified, all painted different colours–some quite startling. Some even had various quirky decorations, and the whole effect was sublime. Many of the houses are owned and lived in by families, so even though it looks a bit theme-parky, it wasn’t like that at all. Children were playing in the street, neighbours were chatting, a few people even said ‘bonjour’ to me. My pictures will tell the story much more eloquently… Read more