The Eternal Dilemma of What to Pack

Let’s face it. No matter what you do, you’ll never look like a local. It takes years of living in a country to blend in with the masses, and even then, your hairstyle or the way you walk or wear your handbag will give you away at some stage! So you may as well go for comfort and practicality. I’ll never forget the time Black Cat spied a group of people way across a vacant allotment on Magnetic Island in North Queensland and said “Those people over there are French”. And you know, it turned out they were !

The range of temperatures you are going to encounter also makes a difference when you’re packing. If it’s going to be 0°C at night in Orange and 30°C in Townsville on the same trip, you virtually need two sets of clothes. But if you’re coming to France in May, it’s going to be much easier.  How often you can wash will also determine what you take. If we are travelling for a month, I try to alternate accommodation with and without a washing machine so I can wash every few days.

Sometimes when we get home from holidays, I put the whole suitcase in the wash. That’s when I know I took the right clothes. If you come back with things you didn’t wear, you should note it for next time. I don’t usually take anything very dressed up. In France, at any rate, people don’t necessarily change to go out at night. They simply wear smart clothes to work that are also suitable in the evening with maybe a change of shoes or bag that they keep at the office. In fact, that’s one way you can pick the tourists in a restaurant  at night – they’re the only ones dressed up!

Pick one or two basic colours – not necessarily black! – from your wardrobe and see if you can work around them. It’s fairly pointless taking a top that only goes with one skirt or pair of pants, for example. Remember that no one is going to know that you wore the same outfit the day before, except that you changed your T-shirt or blouse. If you get sick of wearing the same clothes all the time, shout yourself something new.  Everyone says layers are the best and they really are except that you don’t want to end up looking like the Michelin man!

Skirts and tops are obviously more versatile than dresses because you can adapt more easily to the season. Though I’ve seen Black Cat – who really is French because she was born and bred here – wear a dress with a top or pullover as though it were a skirt. Unless you are absolutely certain that you aren’t going to gain a gram during your holidays, avoid clothing that is skin tight in the hope that by osmosis with the slim French women of your imagination, you might just shed a few kilos along the way. Wishful thinking I’m afraid!

Perhaps you’d like something more specific. Well I’ll try and remember what I took (and wore) on our holiday to Croatia last year where temperatures ranged from 10°C to 35°C and our activities included cycling, walking, swimming and sightseeing. I prefer to wear a lot of blouses so I’ve learnt how to track down inexpensive ironing services wherever I go! I also have a foot problem which means comfortable shoes are a must.

–          1 pair of lightweight jeans
–          1 pair of beige pants (full length)
–          1 pair of light brown pants (full length) and more dressed up than the others
–          1 pair of fushia ¾ pants
–          1 pair of white ¾ pants
–          1 pair of ¾ jeans that can also be used for cycling if it’s a bit cold
–          1 brown skirt the same colour as the long pants
–          1 red polo neck sweat shirt (to go with all pants except fushia)
–          1 blue polo neck sweat shirt (to go with beige & white pants & jeans)
–          1 light brown jacket same colour as pants & skirt (to go with beige and brown)
–          1 white denim jacket (for fushia & white pants & jeans)
–          1 long-sleeved denim shirt/jacket
–          3 T-shirts (white, red & light blue) (I don’t often wear T-shirts but they can be useful)
–          3 white blouses (for fushia pants & jeans)
–          1 pale yellow blouse (for brown & beige)
–          1 pale pink blouse (for brown & beige)
–          1 green & white sleeveless check shirt (that only goes with one thing but it’s my only sleeveless blouse!)
–          1 decent-looking caramel-coloured waterproof jacket with hood and white fleecy-lined front-zip jacket to go underneath
–          1 pair of walking shoes
–          1 pair of walking sandals (also used for cycling)
–          1 pair of ordinary sandals
–          1 straw hat
–          enough underwear & socks for 5 days with 2 pairs of socks for each pair of pants
–          swimsuit & pareo & plastic shoes
–          cotton kimono & scuffs
Cycling
–          2 pairs of denin shorts for cycling (because they’re the most comfortable)
–          2 cycling T-shirts that are fast-drying and no-iron
–          1 windcheater for cycling

What would you add or subtract?

Birthday Lunch at Carre des Feuillants

Every year on my birthday, Relationnel takes me to a surprise venue.  In 2010, it was La Cascade in the Bois de Boulogne and last year it was the Ritz, no less! It was a perfect spring day and we were able to sit outside in the inner courtyard. I am embarrassed to say that I don’t remember what I ate but I know it was delicious and that the service was impeccable. The Ritz is currently closed for Renovation.

This year, I had suggested we have lunch at Les Ombres, the restaurant on top of the Quai Branly ethnic museum because I’ve seen photos  of the stunning views of the Eiffel Tower but with a temperature of 12°C, uncertain skies and disappointing reports about the food, we decided to change venue. What an excellent idea!  Because Relationnel chose  Michelin 2-star chef Alain Dutournier’s Carré des Feuillants just off Place Vendôme. Not exactly in the same league.

Discreet but warm welcome into a very modern and spacious dining room. We both chose the all-inclusive “Idées de la Saison” menu including drinks, starting with champagne to accompany the mouth-watering mises en bouche. Then the starters: fresh wild salmon on a bed of boletus mushrooms, smoked salmon with horseradish and blue lobster with tiny fried spring rolls, followed by melt-in-the-mouth suckling lamb from the Pyrenées with cress and aubergine lasagna. The cheese was a strong Roquefort with a dried fruit centre.

We had a glass of Montée de Tonnère chablis 2010 from Château de Maligny with our starters, followed by a Domaine Gauby côtes de Roussillon 2002 with the lamb and a Château de Carles 2008 fronsac with the cheese. Relationnel asked if he could try a demi-sec white instead which proved to be a much better combination. The wine did not seem to be limited.

Only the desserts , based on vacherin and raspberries, were disappointing. Either  Alain Dutournier isn’t interested in sweet food or he’s chosen the wrong pâtissier! I’m not a big fan of desserts but when I have them, I like to remember them! The petits fours with the coffee were good though. In any case, the service was perfect throughout, attentive without being obsequious and all was well orchestrated. When I was reading the menu, the print was too small so the waiter went and got me some glasses!

Alain Dutournier, who comes from the southwest of France, has three other restaurants : Au Trou Gascon (his first address) in the 12th arrondissement, Pinxo in the 1st and Caves Marly in Versailles. Pinxo sounds very interesting from the blurb on the DVD that you get when you leave : “Original concept conceived and created by Alain Dutournier – contemporary french (sic) restaurant – dishes executed in an open kitchen – surprising combinations, creative and authentic cuisine that focuses on the products – instantaneity of preparation and quick sampling are key words – all the dishes presented by three parts can be easily shared. Wide choice of authentic wines by open price levels (NOT MY TRANSLATION, by the way!). Might just try it sometime.

Carré des Feuillants, 14 rue de Castiglione, 75001 Paris
01 42 86 82 82 carredesfeuillants@orange.fr – www.carredesfeuillants.fr

Sunday’s Travel Photos – Mostar – Bosnia Herzegovina

I described our visit to Mostar in Part 4 of My Croatian Itinerary series. It was a terribly hot murky day and it felt as though we had reached the end of the earth, but the little cobbled street leading up to the famous arch bridge and over the other side was absolutely full of tourists. It was so wonderful when we finally reached the shady inner courtyard of the Ottoman house and had it to ourselves.

Adjusting to Living in Two Houses

Well, so far, I’m not doing so well! Relationnel came back to Paris on Sunday night by car and I followed by bus and train on Monday afternoon because I had to wait for the EDF man to increase the wattage. When I caught the metro in Paris, I suddenly realised that I had left the keys to my Paris apartment in Blois. Fortunately the train was late so Relationnel was home by the time I got there. I’ve now borrowed the keys from my cleaning lady.

When I took my shower in Paris, I had trouble getting used to the taps and the shower rose being at the wrong end! Then when I woke up during the night, it took me a while to work out where I was. That has never ever happened to me before. I am always totally aware of my environment the minute I wake up. I walked into the bookcase, then the divider before I finally realised I was going in the wrong direction.

Next morning, I was about to set up my computer (I had taken my CPU to Blois to transfer everything to my laptop but never found the time) when I discovered I had left the multi-socket thing in Blois as well. Sigh. Relationnel brought home another one at lunchtime but in the meantime, I had a rather frustrating morning trying to work with the laptop which doesn’t have all the files and programs I need.

I had no problem adapting back to my Paris kitchen though. It’s so much more practical! I don’t have to kneel down to take things out of the oven for a start. I pull out a drawer to get to the saucepans instead of bending down to find them in a low cupboard. I have plenty of bench space and a high stool to sit on when my feet are tired. The sink is made for people over 1 m 70 and there’s lots of food in the pantry (though nothing in the fridge …).

However, when I walked into my office, I was greeted by two flowering orchids (birthday presents from Leonardo in the past) and some African violets that had bloomed in my absence but I had missed the tulips on the balcony altogether! I hope that the wisteria will still be in bloom in Blois when we go back at the end of the month. I adore wisteria and the Loire is just full of it at the moment.

We have always made the choice not to have a country house or a beach hut so that we are free to go where we want on holidays because we love discovering new places. As a result, I don’t think I have ever spent more than one week at a time in any place other than my home of the moment, except maybe two weeks in a house near Albi about 10 years ago! So I don’t usually have any trouble remembering where I am.  When I spent the day alone in Blois on Monday, I really felt at home which I guess is what made the transition to Paris more difficult.

All the downstairs rooms are now furnished and decorated even if there are still a few details missing. You can see the photos on the website for the gîte under Accommodation: www.closeriefalaiseau.com.

This time, to make the transition a little easier, I dug out one of the two sweat shirts I wore most days in Blois. I immediately felt better. Maybe there is something to Linus’ security blanket after all!

My Croatian Itinerary – Part 4: Split, Mostar & Dubrovnik

When we got to Split from Ancona in Italy, we drove off the ferry and were immediately searched. Maybe the customs official found it strange we should have so much luggage. Well, the car fridge already takes up a fair amount of room and then there’s the bike gear and stuff. Anyway, she finally waved us on and we followed the Tom Tom to our rental flat. Unfortunately, the entire street was being dug up and we eventually decided to drive through the roadworks to get there despite protests from the workers at the other end but our hostess Antonela was waiting for us and explained the situation. The up side was that Antonela said we could park in the courtyard.

The flat was clean and comfortable with free wifi and a washing machine. It was also very well located, just a short walk from all the sights. We couldn’t use the terrace with the seaview because of the roadworks but it didn’t really matter. We really enjoyed Split. There were lots of historical places to visit, we found a restaurant on the edge of the bay with an excellent “fish plate” (Atlantida) went to the early-morning fresh fish and fresh produce markets and had a wonderful bike ride on Marian Hill which I have described in Cycling in Croatia.

After two nights in Split, we went to Dubrovnik via Mostar in Bosnia Herzegovina where it was shockingly hot. We went through border control twice and waited in long queues each time for no apparent reason.The speed was limited to 60 kph most of the time, also for no apparent reason. We saw shell-shocked buildings along the way and walked over the famous arch bridge built by Suliman the Magnificent which was destroyed during the Yugoslavian war and rebuilt, bought a souvenir for the Christmas tree, had lunch in a very friendly restaurant called Hindin Han and visited Biscevica House, a traditional Ottoman home.

The drive along the coast to Dubrovnik was quite stunning, with little islands everywhere. We went through a small stretch that is part of Bosnia Herzegovina, its only coastal section, waiting in long lines at the border once again. When we got to Dubrovnik, we had parking problems. We hadn’t realised you can’t take your car into the walled city, not even to drop off your luggage. We finally parked in an extremely extensive parking lot near one of the entrances, grabbed a minimum amount of stuff and went to find our flat.

The apartment we stayed in was recommended to us by Black Cat and it was perfect. A large comfortable room with a basic kitchen and a shower room, right in the middle of the old town, but in a tiny street up several flights of steps, a haven from the noise and bustle of the tourist trade and very reasonably priced. The owner’s son, Matko Jelic, who  speaks both French and English (his wife is Irish) was very kind and helpful and even found us a free parking place outside the city walls from which we were able to take a bus back to the city. There wasn’t a wifi connection but Matko indicated a café in the old town called the Skybar with free wifi. The connection code is on the bill – you just have to order a drink.

We stayed three nights in lovely old city of Dubrovnik and I particularly enjoyed the rampart walk at sunset. Unfortunately, it was there that I ate some unsavoury prawns and got the infamous “turista” that kept me indoors and close to the bathroom for most of the time we were there. We had booked an all-day boat ride to some of the islands but I wasn’t up to going. But one day we’ll go back!

Next instalment – Zadar. The itinerary so far: Paris – Annecy – Milan – Ancona – Split – Mostar – Dubrovnik.

Antonela Cmrlec
Apartman Riva
Branimirova Obala 6
SPLIT
+385 (0)98 937 0942      
apartman.riva@gmail.com
 
Konoba “ATLANTIDA”,
Obala Ante Trumbica 13,
21000 Split
 
Matko Jelic
Zvijezdiceva
DUBROVNIK
www.apartmentsdubrovnik.com
matko@apartmentsdubrovnik.com
 
Restoran Hindin Han
Jusovina bb
88 000 MOSTAR
Tel/Fax: 00387 36 581 054      
Mob. 00387 61 153 924      
 
The Skybar
Pridvorje 5,
20217 Dubrovnik

The Romance of a Sale – Zen Things in Paris – Laines Locales Wool Festival at Prébenoît

I’m afraid I was so busy last week setting up house in Blois that I didn’t bring you my usual Wednesday’s other blogs post. But I’m back in Paris and my computer is up and working again. Thank you to the authors of this week’s posts: Petite Paris, an Australian-based independent bed & breakfast booking agent for anyone planning to travel to the romance capital of the world, on Zen things to do in Paris; Llamalady, an Irish llama and alpaca breeder living in the centre of France, who also runs a carp fishery and a holiday gite, reporting on a local wool festival; and Bread is Pain, an American living in the Rhone-Alps “slowly eating and drinking myself through the country”, talking about her love of sales.

Zen Things in Paris

from Petite Paris

When it comes to Paris, we already know the usual recommendations. We know the rule is Laduree for tea.  Pierre Herme for Macaroons. Coffee at Cafe de Flore. Or at Lipp Or at Deux Magots.  We know that a visit to the Louvre is a must see. Eiffel. Piere Lachaise. And we know all about the Batobus river boat tours. The Moulin Rouge. and the Opera. And these are all great, bien sûr… Read more.

Laines Locales Wool Festival at Prébenoît

by LLamalady from Blog in France

We are just back from a chilly and breezy but interesting morning at a wool festival. It was organised by Laines Locales of Limousin and was held at nearby Prébenoit Abbey. Had the weather been better we would have cycled there – it’s about 10 km away – but we’d have been blown backwards! Read more.

The Romance of a Sale

from Bread is Pain

I love sales.  Love them.  I will buy things that I don’t really find attractive or things that I absolutely do not need based solely on the fact that they are on sale.  As a dear friend of mine puts it “really, by not buying it you are losing money because it is such a good deal!”  (RIGHT?!)   This statement pretty much sums up my feelings when I see something marked down.  “Why look!  It’s a goose leash!  We don’t have a goose, I know, but one day we might and come on, honey, it’s 70% off!”  Read more.

Meeting the Neighbours in Blois

Relationnel has devised this radical way of meeting the neighbours in Blois. I would have gone for something softer myself. The first time, we were coming back from our celebratory dinner at L’Embarcadère after spending our first day in the new house. Before I go any further, I’d just like to point out that we had both had only two glasses of wine to accompany our meal. Not being used to our new address, Relationnel sailed past the house and we found ourselves at the end of the street and had to do a U-turn.

“Hey, I just want to read what this sign’s all about”, says Relationnel, backing up to get a closer look. Crruunch! That’s the problem with a country road – there aren’t any street lights and people have this tendency to park their dark grey cars in unsuspecting places. The front door of the other car was nicely bashed in while we had a broken tail light and a few scratches. No sign of who the car might belong to so Relationnel left a note with his mobile phone number (not his name, which is Avril because it happened to be April  Fool’s Day and they might have thought it was a bad joke!).

Next day, we got a call from a very friendly man who kept repeating that it was highly unusual for anyone to leave their number in such circumstances. His poor wife hadn’t been able to open the door from the outside next morning but fortunately could do so from the inside, making it less dangerous. We organised a meeting and filled in the forms together. They turned out to be middle-aged bikies (Harley Davidson) and their house  is like an American museum from the 1930s. Very friendly and understanding. We’ve noticed though that they keep parking the car in the same spot!

The next “meet the neighbours” episode occurred after we’d been to Argenton sur Creuse, a two-hour drive south, to pick up a Henri II glass-doored bookcase whose weight proved it was made of solid oak. I found it on leboncoin.com about a month ago and sent a cheque to the owner, a professional brocanteur. He turned out to be the real thing. I’ve never seen a shop like it – everything thrown higgledy-pickledy with not even the faintest semblance of order and all covered in layers of dust although it all looks surprisingly spruce in the photo!

We followed him in his van up and down country lanes for about 20 minutes until we finally came to a warehouse in a village which was as messy as the shop, only bigger. While he and Relationnel looked after the bookcase, I rooted around and came up with a tall bronze lamp. The shade’s a bit broken unfortunately, but it can easily be replaced. After they had put the bookcase on the trailer and I had protected the glass doors with bubble wrap so they could be put safely on the roof rack (less chance of breakage), the brocanteur went off to deliver some other goods.

We then spent the next hour protecting it all against the rain (and rain it did, several times). When we got home, the idea was to take it up the front steps, then lift it on to the top of the railing so that it could be taken in through the door. We started, going one step at a time, but soon realised that there was absolutely no way that I could get a ten-tonne bookcase up the steps. By then it was too late to backtrack so Relationnel went off to “find a neighbour”. He came back a few minutes later with a man who couldn’t possibly be the neighbour (wrong age to start with) and they continued the operation. He turned out to be stronger than he looked.

The neighbour (right age) then arrived and proceeded to direct operations. I took him upstairs and he soon saw that the hoisting-onto-the-railing solution wasn’t going to work. The three of them finally managed to lift it high enough to get it into the living room and then onto the mezzanine. There’s no way around it – men are stronger than women! I later found out who the first man was – he was simply picking up his son from a birthday party. I didn’t get the impression the neighbour was too impressed …

Dividing the House in Two

We’ve now furnished most of our new house in Blois and Relationnel is onto the second-last major operation – dividing the top floor from the bottom floor. Downstairs, there are now three rooms: the kitchen, the living room and the bedroom (with its en-suite bathroom).  There is both an internal and external staircase leading up to the top floor so we had to find a way of closing off the internal staircase which currently leads into the downstairs bedroom.

Relationnel came up with the idea of adding French doors and was able to recuperate some beautiful solid oak panelled doors from a renovation site. However, he had to completely strip them and then adapt the height and frames to the doorway which, being very old, is not quite straight! It all turned out to be much more complicated than expected but the first set is now in place.

Above one end of the downstairs living room, there is a mezzanine, which means that it also has to be divided off so that we can go can through the back door and up the stairs without disturbing our gîte guests. We can’t use the external staircase on the front façade because the door only opens from the inside! So there will be a second set of French doors to close off the mezzanine.

Relationnel didn’t think the second operation would be as complicated but the 4 cm thick solid oak proved to be temperamental. From time to time, I was called upon to help move the doors and panels and I peoved to be especially useful when it came to putting the incredibly heavy doors on their hinges. This is a very delicate operation and none of the usual nifty solutions seemed to work. In the end, Relationnel just had to use brute force.

The top floor has now been successfully separated from the bottom though the whole process took a full day more than expected. Meanwhile, I put the Ikea garden table, bench and chairs together. I followed the instructions carefully but the first chair was missing a step so to my disappointment, I had to call on Relationnel’s greater experience. When I began the second chair, I discovered that they had changed the instructions and the pre-mounting operation and the missing step was no longer missing! If you’ve ever put Ikea furniture together, you know that they have a little L-shaped piece that you use to screw the different parts together. Well, Relationnel has the greatest little screw driver with a lever system that makes screwing a breeze and is far better than that L-thing. You can even change the setting to make it unscrew.

Relationnel has gone back to Paris tonight but I have to be here for the electricity company tomorrow morning so that they can increase the wattage we can use simultaneously. At the moment, I can’t use the oven and the hot plate at the same time or the power cuts out completely. So I will be taking the bus and train home tomorrow afternoon. I checked out the bus this morning. It’s a 15 minute walk, then a 15-minute ride to the station. I made sure I booked early and chose a cheaper time slot. This time, I’m paying 26 euros for a direct trip. Who knows, I might even get good at this commuting business!

The Sydney Writers’ Centre’s Best Australian Blogs 2012

You may be wondering what the Best Australian Blogs 2012 and Vote for Me Now badges are doing on my blog. Well it’s a competition run by the Sydney Writers’ Centre and I have been kindly nominated by a fellow blogger. I’m competing with an impressive 1023 other Australian bloggers!

Bloggers are understandably judged on the quality of their writing (70%), presentation and usability (20%) and engagement and social media integration (10%). The judges will be looking at conversations in the comment section, guest bloggers, and the use of social media to promote the blog. So if you haven’t already “liked” my Facebook page  – http://www.facebook.com/AussieFrance – this is the time to do so!

There’s also a People’s Choice round which is now open. Voting is unrestricted (you don’t have to be Australian) so if you enjoy reading my blog, feel free to vote for me! It’s very easy and only takes a second. Just follow the instructions below:

1) Click here or on the badge (www.surveymonkey.com/s/BAB2012 in case you have a problem).

2) Scroll down the first page until you find Aussie in France (the list is in alphabetical order)

3) TICK the box for Aussie in France (of course)

4) Click NEXT 5 times (voting for others on the way if you want)

5) Leave your name and email address

6) Click NEXT one last time and it’s finished.

If you’d like to tweet about your vote, the hashtag is #bestblogs2012.

The winner of the People’s Choice Award will be announced on Thursday 10 May 2012.

And while we’re on the subject of blogs, I’d like to thank all my readers for their comments and encouragements since my first post on 14th October 2011 about Leonardo Leaving the Nest. I’m not only able to give vent to my creative energies but also meeting new people  across the globe who share the same interests as I do! I love meeting other bloggers as well – something I never expected.

Sunday’s Travel Photos – Prague

Prague is one of my very favourite cities. I love the architecture, the atmosphere, the mixture of old and new, the fact that you can find wonderful places on the river to eat, the buskers, the people in general. Our hotel was slightly outside the main area, which meant we had to take a tram to get reach the centre. I think it’s better to be able to walk everywhere. Perhaps you have some suggestions? We were there early September which was just perfect.

from the Tropics to the City of Light