I’m introducing an Australian acquaintance to Jean Michel. “Bonjour”, she says, then turning to me, somewhat flustered, “I’m tongue-tied. How do I say that in French?”
“Langue coupée”, I say rather doubtfully. “No, I know, je suis bloquée, j’ai un blocage.” “Ah, then it doesn’t mean the same as the English word ‘blockage'”, she laughs.
Definitely not!
Bloquer et blocage are actually used quite a lot in French and are often rather annoying to translate into English.
La porte est bloquée : I can’t get the door open.
Il s’est garé trop près, il a complètement bloqué la sortie : he parked too close to me and stopped me getting out.
Bloquer la vis: turn the screw until it won’t go any further.
Il faut bloquer la porte avec une chaise : you have to keep the door open with a chair.
So how do you say “blockage” in French? In the medical sense, it’s obstruction except when it’s intestinal and then it’s occlusion.
You can sometimes use boucher as well e.g. l’évier est bouché: the drain’s blocked.
I should also mention that people are often intimidated about speaking French in front of me, but they shouldn’t be. I’m always so grateful that they can talk to Jean Michel who is a victim of the atrocious French language teaching system and has a poor memory for vocabulary. Remember – I was once a beginner too!
Because I work from home, I’m rarely outside in the street at 8.30 am, although I can see the Palais Royal Gardens through my office window any time of the day.
When Black Cat lived nearby, she would sometimes suggest we go to breakfast together before she went to work but she moved to another part of Paris a long time ago. Today, however, I was to meet up with some visiting Australian friends at Angelina’s in rue de Rivoli.
Paris was wearing another face. In the Palais Royal, a business man was reading the paper next to the fountain before the water was turned on. Joggers were running under the trees.
There were no children playing on the Buren columns and no tourists posing for photos or throwing coins into the water below.
At Café Nemours people were having coffee before work and half the seats were empty.
Most of the souvenir shops along Rue de Rivoli were closed.
Others were setting up their stalls for the day, mopping the floor or having a morning coffee break.
There was no one on the Big Wheel currently stationed in the fun park in the Tuileries Gardens.
When I got to Angelina’s no one was queueing!
I chose my favourite award-winning Bourbon vanilla slice (mille-feuille bourbon) and Angelina’s extra-thick hot chocolate.
There wasn’t a sole person in the boutique.
By the time I left at 10.30 am, all the souvenir shops were doing brisk business. Maybe I should go out to breakfast more often!
A little late this week, but here is this Wednesday’s Bloggers Round-up, with an all Australian cast. Jill from Gigi’s French Window takes us to the beautiful town of Annecy in the foothills of the French Alps; Phoebe from Lou Messugo, who lives in Provence, tells us all about tapenade; while Andrea from Rear View Mirror, brings us some stunning photos of Lake Como in Italy. Enjoy!
Annecy adventures / Les aventures d’Annecy
by Jill from Gigi’s French Window, French ponderings from an Australian who must have been French in another life
A few years back, I spent 3 seasons in Annecy, France…yep, that’s right,
3 seasons, but it only took 3 days to do it….:).
It’s a gorgeous, ancient city, near the Swiss Alps, that I just fell for.
We stayed in Hotel Au Faisan Dore… which was a pleasant surprise when it came to space, after all the prior shoe boxes. Oohhh sooo warm, as well, which turned out to be a lifesaver! Read more
Tapenade – a Provençal classic
by Phoebe from Lou Messugo, a traveller, francophile, expat, mum and foodie now living in Roquefort les Pins where she runs a gîte after many years of travelling and living in Asia, Eastern Europe and Australia
Walk around any market in Provence or the Côte d’Azur and you will see stalls heaped with glistening olive pastes and tapenades, usually next to an enormous array of different olives and other pickles.
Tapenade is a typically southern dish made with olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil, chopped finely or blended together into a paste. Its name comes from the Provençal word for capers, “tapenas“. Read more
The Shores of Lake Como
by Andrea from Rear View Mirror and Destination Europe, a fellow Australian who, after 6 years of living in France, has given up herParis apartment to live a nomadic life slowing travelling around Europe, experiencing each destination like a local
I should know better than to book a popular tourist destination for mid-summer. I find it hard to get a feel for a place when there are crowds and few locals around and I usually end up being disappointed. Bellagio, Varenna and Como in Italy are massively popular destinations in July and August. Of course they are popular with tourists for a reason, I get that. They are beautiful cities surrounded by imposing mountains on the shores of Lake Como. Personally I’d much rather visit in the off-season but on this occasion I was meeting friends from Australia which made all the difference. Read more
I haven’t seen my cousin Geraldine in about 50 years and it’s her first time in Paris. I advised her to try and get accommodation in the 1st arrondissement because it’s so central. I’ve been following her adventures in Lucca in Italy on Facebook and am stunned when I see her first photos of Paris.
Geraldine on the deck
She is staying on a péniche – a barge – on the Seine, right in the middle of Paris. What a location! “I knew that this would be good but not THIS good”, she comments.
Lunch at Café Diane in the Tuileries Gardens
We meet up at one of my favourite lunch spots, Café Diane in the Tuileries Gardens, where you can always get a shady table and eat an excellent quiche Lorraine accompanied by a glass of cold rosé. We deserve it – it’s over 30°C!
Houseboats on the Seine in summer
“Do you still want to see the barge?” asks Geraldine at the end of the meal. Well, of course I do! I’ve dreamed of living on a barge since my high school days when I followed the adventures of a French family on a barge on TV. She thought that having lived in Paris so long, I would be completely jaded. Not so!
House boats on the Seine in spring
“Oh no!” says Geraldine, when we reach the barge. “They’ve all gone out and I don’t have my key. It’s in my other bag”. When she left to meet me, her husband Ian, and their daughter and her partner were watching a State of Origin football match but either the match is over or the wrong team won.
Geraldine rummaging for her missing keys
Geraldine is very apologetic as she rummages desperately through her bag, but I don’t care. I am already sitting on the deck watching the world go by. It is sheer magic. It’s amazing how actually being on the river makes you suddenly a part of Paris.
Working barge on the Seine
Geraldine tells me that the day they arrived, they couldn’t tear themselves away from the deck, even with the Louvre so close. I can understand that perfectly!
River police
There are not only tourist boats (Vedettes du Pont Neuf, Bateaux Mouches, Vedettes de Paris) plying the Seine, but also the Batobus, a police boat and numerous working barges. There’s even a bullet-proof government boat taking VIPS to the Finance Ministry!
View from the kitchen window!
We text Ian and drag him back from the Louvre. He opens the hatch and I’m close on his heels, eager to see the inside. He good naturedly makes me coffee in the well-equipped kitchen. He and Geraldine opt for a cold beer.
A Paris Canal boat
The interior is surprisingly big, with an attractive open-plan galley and living room and dining area although they usually eat up on the deck. Can you blame them?
A corner of the living room
After they bought the barge in the 1970s, the owners loving restored it in perfect respect of its original style – a Dutch tjalk built in 1902. That is why the only furniture on the deck is a teak table and chairs.
There is a double bedroom down one end with a bathroom and separate toilet and two single bedrooms down the other. I see there are heaters for winter and a pot-belly stove which must make it nice and cosy. There’s also wifi and a flat-screen TV.
The gaily coloured engine room
I have a peek into the engine room as well. I know Jean Michel will want to know what it’s like.
Ian and Geraldine living it up on the deck
Downstairs is a bit hot (but no more than any other Paris apartment in a heat wave) so we take our drinks up on the deck where I sip my coffee and eat macaroons from Ladurée. This is the life!
Sadly, Geraldine has to go back to Australia tomorrow, flying via Dubai with Emirates. “But I’m coming back”, she says. “And definitely staying here if it’s available.”
You can find house boats on the airbnb.com website from 250 euro a night. Type Paris, then enter “barge” in keywords.
Although we had already been to Bavaria, we hadn’t been to Munich. We prefer to visit major cities during an extended weekend rather incorporate them into a road trip as they say these days. But Munich was on our way from Andelfingen to Aschach so I insisted we have our lunch break there.
It was a Sunday, which meant no traffic problems but unfortunately for us, the annual Stadtlauf München or Munich City Run was on and the main square, Marianplatz was absolutely crowded. We were able to visit the main sites, however, and had an enjoyable visit. We’ll have to go back again on a different date!
Marianplatz, the main square in Munich with the new town hallDetail on the new town hall built between 1867 and 1908 in Gothic Revival architecture style.Old Town Hall or Altes Rathaus built between 1470 and 1480Musicians waiting their turn at the very popular Victuals MarketThe old town hall from the other side, opposite the Victuals MarketStatues on a Renaissance façadePlatzl with the Hofbraühaus on the rightMusicians in Munich’s most famous beerhall, the HofbraühausSigns inside the beerhallFrauenkirche – Notre Dame Cathedral – late Gothic church, taken from the side – there are actually two towersInside the FrauenkircheAlter Hof or Old Court, the former imperial palace of former imperial residence of Louis IV, Holy Roman Emperor
We’re staying at Gasthof Dexler in Niederranna on the Danube close to the S-bend between Linz in Austria and Passau in Germany so are able to start directly from our hotel. It turns out to be one of the highlights of our trip.
The bike path in front of Gasthof Dexler
The sky is blue and it’s 22°C when we leave at 9.30 after saying goodbye to the Aussie cyclists. We come to the end of our shady cycle path at Au and take a little ferry across to Schlogen.
The first ferry crossing from Au
We cycle towards the second bend at Inzoll and take a rest stop at Gasthof Steindl and watch the river traffic.
Coffee break on the Danube at Gasthof Steindl in Inzell
We continue on until we are opposite Untermühl. It’s wonderfully quiet and peaceful with no cars. However, by now I’m severely bitten by mosquitos because I’ve stupidly forgotten to use spray and although the little waterfalls along the way might be cute they’re a great breeding ground.
A little waterwall along the bike path between Inzell and Obermühl
We locate the ferry opposite Untermühl, but there is no sign of a ferryman so I go to a nearby gasthof where I am told in German with appropriate handsigns that I have to press the button on the intercom near the ferry.
The intercom at the second ferry crossing opposite Untermühl
Fortunately a young German couple who speak English have arrived by then and are able to interpret the message that the ferryman will be there in 10 minutes. He soon turns up on his little tractor, jumps into the ferry and takes us across while Jean Michel studies the next part of the trip.
Studying up the route on the second ferry
From Untermühl, we cycle back to Obermühl crossing a couple of rivers on the way and have the most delicious wiener schnitzel and a very cold glass of riesling on a shady terrace overlooking the Danube. By the time we get there, it’s 2.45. I just love the way they serve meals all day in Germany and Austria!
Lunch in the shade with a view of the Danube
With renewed courage, we continue on to Steinbruch where we are to take another ferry which is already halfway across the Danube.
The third ferry coming back to get us
An Austrian couple waiting to go in the other direction (Aschach) tells us in English to call the ferryman on the intercom so he can come back and get us. I ask the man if he would mind doing it for us as I am afraid of not being understood.
Our mini-cruise along the Danube
This time, the ferry is bigger and our trip back up the river takes about 20 minutes – a little mini-cruise in the middle of the Danube.
Looking back towards Au
We get out at Au and cycle back to our hotel, a total of 59 kilometers and a cycling time of 3 ½ hours. My knees are feeling a little wobbly!
Map taken from our travel diary showing Niederranna on the left where we began and Untermuhl where we began the return journey
It’s only 4.30 so Jean Michel suggests we go up to a blick (lookout) near Schlogen and get a bird’s eye view of the loop we have just ridden. We park the car and walk through the forest for about a quart of an hour before we reach the blick. The view is absolutely stunning.
The S-bend from the Schlogen blick
When we get back to the car the sky is threatening and we can only spend a few minutes on the terrace before the rain starts. I have the brilliant idea of taking the table and chairs into the room so we enjoy our apéritif watching the rain and reminiscing over our truly exceptional day.
While I was away on holidays, MyFrenchLife, a global community of French and francophiles connecting like-minded people in English & French, published a post that I wrote about Daisy who runs a Treasure Hunt at the Louvre Museum called THatLou. I found her story fascinating and I’m sure you will too!
Why Daisy Came to France
Although all Daisy’s early connections were with Italy, her admiration of novelist Honoré de Balzac, film producer François Truffaut and photographer Henri Cartier-Besson took her to France, where she fell instantaneously head-over-heels with the City of Light.
Daisy and I had several exchanges via Twitter before we finally met at a pretend picnic on the grass near the Tuileries Gardens. We were participating in a film shoot at the request of our friend and fellow blogger, Abby Gordon, for House Hunters International. Read more
I haven’t been publishing the usual Wednesday’s Blogger Round-up for the last month because I simply didn’t have time to read any other blogs! Cycling and visiting all day and writing posts at night took up a good part of every 24 hours.
Although we arrived back on Sunday night just in time for Bastille Day, we decided to pass on it this year but Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris took some of her usual stunning photos. Meanwhile, Sylvia from Finding Noon was off on a Greek Island, eating lobster and discovering a wonderful English library. While we’ve been cycling along the Danube, Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike has been bicycling through Provence. Enjoy!
Sunday’s Picture and a Song: Bastille Day (La Fête Nationale)
by Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris, an American by birth, Swiss by marriage, resident of Paris with a Navigo Pass for the metro that she feels compelled to use
Liberté, égalité, fraternité.
There was a REVOLUTION of sound and explosions on the Champ de Mars last night. If you would like to relive Bastille Day (La Fête Nationale) 2013, here’s the spectacular firework show in its entirety! Read more
On the third day she rested…
by Sylvie from Finding Noon, an American living in Paris who appreciates fine art, good music, succulent food, and breath taking scenery
Not that I’m comparing myself to the Great Creator, but s/he created the world in 6 days before taking a break, where as on holiday in Santorini, Greece last week, I only made it to three before needing a holiday from our holidays.
When I told a friend our destination she gave me a rather dry look, adding, “You know, you can’t wear heels.” The map of the nearest big city had a “No Heels” logo on its legend. What wasn’t explained, and what I didn’t ask, is why. Read more
Bicycling in Provence: A Very Sad Au Revoir
by Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history.
Provence is a very easy place to fall in love with, and a very difficult place to leave. Four days here was only enough time to confirm that I should have planned on staying no less than a couple of weeks! Even though it never rains here in the summer, it rained in Bonnieux this morning. Maybe the rain was supposed to help me not feel so bad about leaving. But as I watched the fog settle over the hills, it made me want to stay even more. I was dreading the 7 km downhill ride on wet pavement. Read more
You may remember I started the 5:2 fast diet about 2 weeks before we left on holidays, desperately hoping it would allow me to wear all my summer clothes again. Well, it worked but I wondered how it would go once we were actually on holiday particularly as I wasn’t sure whether or not Jean Michel would join me.
Picnic table and barbecue in Germany
We left on a Monday which was a fast day for me. Jean Michel had a regular breakfast whereas I decided to skip mine. We both had the same lunch with an extra 100 calories for Jean Michel because men are entitled to 600 calories and women to 500, and the same dinner. By then we were in Germany and with the long twilight, we were able to cycle for 2 hours (29 kilometers) afterwards. I was surprised to feel neither tired nor hungry.
Vegetable and fruit stalls in Germany
After that, we both fasted twice a week throughout our month’s holiday, with the exception of one day when it proved to be impossible for logistic reasons. When we could, we tried to make our fast day coincide with moving from one place to another, but even on those days, we still cycled in the evening. On other fast days, we cycled 40 or 50 kilometers without any problem, to Jean Michel’s surprise in particular.
Typical lunch in Germany
On the other days, we usually ate a bit more for breakfast than we normally do, especially Jean Michel who always has trouble resisting a buffet. We then had lunch in a local restaurant, eating high-calorie foods such as wiener schnitzel and knudels, accompanied by a glass of wine. We often had an ice-cream in the afternoon as well. In the evening, we had a glass or two of wine with pistachios, followed by a salad we made ourselves, often with bread and cheese. Sometimes we had a picnic at lunch time and ate out in the evening. A couple of times we skipped lunch or dinner because we’d had a big breakfast or lunch.
Diet coke and ice-cream when it’s very hot!
I would say that the only complicated part was planning ahead for fast days because the only time we were able to cook for ourselves was a short 4-day period during the second part of the trip. We did, however, have a car fridge, which helped considerably. To make things easier, we nearly always ate the same thing on fast days: black coffee for breakfast then 2 boiled eggs, cucumber, tomatoes and a piece of fruit for lunch (plus a slice of bread or tabouli for Jean Michel). In the evening, we ate yoghurt, fromage blanc, lettuce, tomato, carrot, capsicum and a piece of fruit.
Buffet breakfast in Austria
In Germany, Austria and Hungary, hard boiled eggs were nearly always available for breakfast at our hotel or gasthaus, so on fast days, we would just have our coffee and take two eggs and a piece of fruit with us as we left. I also kept a tin of tuna in the car in case we ran out of yoghurt and fromage blanc.
Not only did I not put any weight back on, but I lost another kilo!
Spinach pancakes and cheese in Hungary
I found it very liberating not to have to worry about what was going to be served in a restaurant, particularly as my knowledge of German did not allow me to know what I was getting most of the time, let alone negotiate vegetables instead of dumplings, for example, as I would have done in France or Australia. I was also able to have food I don’t usually eat because of its high calorie content, such as wiener schnitzel, apfel strudel and ice-cream, and taste the local dishes.
A glass of wine on the terrace in Austria
It was wonderful to be able to have a glass or two of wine in the evening with nuts. Skipping meals when not hungry, after a big breakfast or lunch, is something I’ve never done because I was always told it would make me put on weight. Well, it’s just not true.
Indulging in cake and hot chocolate in Bratislava
Only a couple of times during the entire month, and only on a fast day, did I feel hungry at any time and then, the feeling soon passed. Jean Michel found it harder, but he is also used to eating more than me because he is generally more active.
Crumbed fish in Budapest
So I shall continue to have fast two days a week until I have lost another two kilos then try fasting once a week. If that doesn’t work, I’ll go back to twice a week. I believe that it’s something I can envisage doing for the rest of my life and certainly much better than having to be careful about what I eat every day.
We’ve had a wonderful month, cycling over 1,100 kilometers along the Danube, Lake Constance and the Doubs, all on the Eurovelo 6 route, visiting two new countries – Slovakia and Hungary – exploring new areas of four other countries – France, Germany, Austria and Switzerland – and taking nearly 5,000 photos between us, but now I’m ready to go home.
Double bed with two mattresses and two covers
I’m looking forward to sleeping in a double bed with only one mattress, to having my own pillow again and a sheet and blanket, not two separate duvets which are always too hot and which always seem to slide off. I still haven’t understood why the beds in Germany, Austria and Hungary have separate covers. I don’t know if it only exists in hotels or common pratice in private homes.
Hotel breakfast – one of the better ones
I’m looking forward to having a soft-boiled egg, French Activia yoghurt (when you buy it in other countries, it’s not the same taste or consistency), fromage blanc (we found speisequark in Germany, but it’s more like Petits Suisses) and real orange juice, not that awful fruit drink substitute you get everywhere. I want Earl Grey tea and Verlet ooffee
Curtainless shower with short wall
I can’t wait to have a shower in my own bathroom, where the temperature is consistent, the water doesn’t spray out in funny directions because the holes are clogged up and the shower curtain doesn’t stick to you. Our worst shower was in a very small bathroom with no curtain at all which meant the entire floor was wet afterwards.
My wonderful cleaning lady
It will be wonderful to be able to throw the clothes in the washing machine whenever I want and have them dry the next day. It will be even more wonderful to have them ironed by my wonderful Portugeuse cleaner!
Cote de boeuf at L’Arbre Sec
It will be a relief to be able to communicate properly with everyone all the time because I understand and speak the language around me. No more surprises in restaurants. And while I’m on the subject of food, I am just so looking forward to a côte de bœuf, or at least an entrecôte, and lots of steamed and baked vegetables. Not to mention my home-made bread.
The Eurovelo 6 route from the Atlantic Coast to the Black Sea
And last, but not least, it will be great to have a fast, uninterrupted internet connection again. I didn’t realise how lucky I was in Paris and even Blois until I experienced the often slow and discontinuous connections available in many hotels and the apartment we rented. In one place, where we stayed five nights, there was only one place in which the internet worked – just next to the door, which wasn’t really very convenient you have to agree.
In the last place we stayed I couldn’t get a connection at all but at least we were in France so I had my iPhone.
I’m still looking forward to my next holiday though – in Sofia in Bulgaria in September!