Category Archives: Austria

From Italy to Bavaria via Innsbruck for more Cycling

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After our disappointing cycling experience in the Po Valley in Italy, where we were based in Crema for two nights, ,Jean Michel suggests we go back to Wies in Bavaria. I agree but insist on getting a proper cycling map first.

The view in Gudon
The view in Gudon

First we schedule an over-night stopover in Innsbruck in the south of Austria, with an abortive lunch stop at Bolzano which turns out to be nothing but new buildings. We leave town and get back on the motorway, then follow a sign saying Gudon. The only two restaurants in this pretty little mountain village which is more Austrian than Italian are closed but I find a bench in the shade near the church and we have a picnic. We love the beauty of the site, the panoramic view and the lovely cemetery.

The view from our balcony in Innsbruck
The view from our balcony in Innsbruck

After another 1 ½ hours, we arrive in Innsbruck. going back to the same hotel we stayed in 5 years ago, Gastof Koreth. It’s been renovated, the rooms seem to have shrunk, the balcony still has the same great view of Innsbruck and the surrounding mountains, the wooden floor creaks badly and breakfast is hardly any better than in Italy.

The golden roof in Innsbruck
The golden roof in Innsbruck

After a short rest, we ride into the Old Town to see the Golden Roof again but there are so many tourists that we decide to cycle along the river for a few kilometers. This is the sort of holiday we like! We have our aperitif at the same café, Dom Café, as last time opposite the Cathedral and dinner in the same beer garden, Löwen Haus, as we did five years ago. We are creatures of habit if nothing else. Actually, it’s easier than searching for new places! The dinner’s a bit disappointing though – we should have taken the day’s special.

Cycling along the Inn in Innsbruck
Cycling along the Inn in Innsbruck

After cycling back up the hill to our hotel, we start the next accommodation search on booking.com. This is not a task that either of us likes. We have a lot of difficulty finding anything as we’d like an apartment for a few days and nothing seems to be available even on German websites which have the added complication of being in German. We settle for the Alpen Hotel in Peiting, about 30 km north of Fussen, for two nights. We are tempted by Sonnenbichl  where we stayed in 1999, but would like a little more comfort. I suggest we stop off at Garmich-Partenkirche on the way and pick up some tourist information.

Just one of the beautifully decorated buildings in Garmish
Just one of the beautifully decorated buildings in Garmish

When we get there, we park and walk into the centre. Every single building is decorated with beautiful murals. There is no tourist information about the area we are going to (Pfaffenwinkel – priests’ corner) but we are able to buy a couple of bike maps at a bookshop. Even in German, they are still useful.

Ettal Monastery
Ettal Monastery

On the way to Peiting, I see an interesting-looking dome off to the right in a place called Ettal. I ask Jean Michel who has had enough driving on winding roads if we can stop. We’re glad we did. Ettal has a stunningly beautiful baroque Benedictine monastery built in the eighteenth century according to the plans of a Swiss-Italian architect. However we don’t anywhere we would like to have lunch.

The farm house across the road from the restaurant in Altenau
The farm house across the road from the restaurant in Altenau

A bit further on, our GPS sends us on a most unlikely road to the villag e of Altenau. We see some people having lunch under blue and white umbrellas at the Altenauer Dorfwirt  which according to my iPhone German dictionary means something like the village host. We order Viener Schnitzel (what else?) and some cold white wine. The centre of the village is very lively and we watched school children and tractors file past. Jean Michel has perked up by now.

Our hotel in Peiting
Our hotel in Peiting – one front balcony is on the first floor on the left. There is another one round the corner.

We arrive in Peiting mid-afternoon and are relieved to discover that the hotel room is spacious with French windows on two sides, each with a balcony, and that the floor doesn’t creak. We venture out and discover we are in a pretty little village. Andrea at the tourist office speaks good English and gives us the local maps and information as well as a list of holiday flats. She shows us several bike itineraries including Wies and it looks as though we have enough information not to get lost. She also directs us to the local organic supermarket.

The view from one of our balconies in Peiting
The view from one of our balconies in Peiting

In the evening, after a picnic dinner on the balcony (now why can’t I grow geraniums like that?) and an ice-cream at the Eis Cafe down the road, we try to no avail to find an apartment for a few days. All the websites are in German and they don’t have calendars to indicate availability. I decide to go back and see Andrea next day which we do, after a disappointing breakfast. Are we getting harder to please?

Peiting Church
Peiting Church

She is very helpful and tries several places. V-lan (wifi) seems to be the main problem, which is surprising. One apartment seems promising and she says she’ll have the answer in an hour. I leave her my cell number and off we go. Our cycling holiday in Germany seems to be off to a good start!

Maria Taferl Basilica overlooking the Danube in Austria

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On Saturday morning, the weather forecast for Sunday promised bright sun, blue skies and 19°C (even better than Saturday) so we intended to cycle from our Radlerpension in Hagsdorf to Melk for lunch then drive up to the Maria Taferl basilica to save our knees – it’s at the end of 4 km of winding road.

Saturday's blue sky and blue Danube
Saturday’s blue sky and blue Danube

However, by Saturday evening, the forecast has changed – a maximum of 15°C with fog all day. I guess yesterday was our last day of cycling for the year. We go to the local village for bread and other supplies but soon discover that even in the bigger towns around us, Sunday is a day of rest. We manage to buy some bread though at a place that has a breakfast café attached to it. Each time we go past a church, we see families in their traditional Sunday best which we remember from the last time we were here.

The dining room at Pichler's
The dining room at Pichler’s

After spending some time looking for a hotel in our next location, Bamberg, we drive towards Melk for lunch but stop on the way at a likely-looking hotel/restaurant called Pichler’s in Emmersdorf. Inside, the waitresses and some of the patrons are also in traditional dress – certainly a far cry from the ultra-tight highly revealing apparel we have seen in other parts of Europe recently.

The konditorei where we have coffee and cake
The konditorei where we have coffee and cake

By the time we finish lunch, the sky has cleared to a pale blue and the temperature is 14°C, certainly not cycling weather but we should get a good view from Maria Taferl, which is the second most important place of pilgrimage in Austria. We’re a little bit worried about the crowds, but it’s not very busy and we are able to park very close to the basilica just opposite a Konditorei.

Maria Taferl Basilica
Maria Taferl Basilica built from 1660 to 1710

The current baroque church was built from 1660 to 1710 on the site of a shrine to the Virgin Mary celebrating several miraculous recoveries. Its construction also gave the local inhabitants renewed courage after the bubonic plague.

The Danube from the panoramic terrace in front of Maria Taferl Basilica
The Danube from the panoramic terrace in front of Maria Taferl Basilica

We go onto the panoramic terrace first. The view of the Danube and surrounding countryside is quite superb despite the lack of blue sky.

The main altar and painted ceilings
The main altar and painted ceilings

The Inside of the church is standard gilt baroque and beautifully painted pastel ceilings.

The holy picture collection at Maria Taferl Basilica
The holy picture collection at Maria Taferl Basilica

We notice a side door and wander into an exhibition of holy pictures that covers the walls of three flights of stairs. I’m surprised there aren’t more people.

An unusual coffee grinder
An unusual coffee grinder

After visiting the basilica, we have coffee and some sort of cream cake in the Konditorei. Like the restaurant at lunchtime, there is a lot of beautiful polished wood everywhere. It also has an unsual porcelain coffee grinder.

Maria Taferl on top of the hill
Maria Taferl on top of the hill

On the way back, Jean Michel chooses a different route and we find ourselves opposite a stunning view of the basilica which looks very romantic through the slight haze.

The rest of the day is given over to R&R and finding an apartment in Bamberg in Germany, whose historical centre is on the Unesco World Heritage list. It is one of the few places we haven’t visited in Bavaria. It will be a good place to finish off our holiday.

 Cycling along the Danube – from Ybbs to Grein in Austria

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We know we’re in Austria because the host at our Radlerpension (radler = cyclist) greets us with Grüss Gott which literally means “may God greet you”. The first time we heard it was in Bavaria as we climbed the hill to the stunning Baroque church of Wies. Every person we passed said Grüss Got to us. When we got back to the hotel, I asked what it meant and was told “it’s just a thing they say here”. Hmm.

Melk Abbey
Melk Abbey from the bike path

It’s already October and the days are getting shorter and cooler. We’re having trouble finding places along the Danube to cycle but the Eurovelo 6 bike route to the west of Melk, famous for its Benedictine Abbey built in the early 18th century and affording a stunning view of Wachau Valley and the Danube, seems promising.

Our Radlerpension Leebs in Hagsdorf
Our Radlerpension Leebs in Hagsdorf

Our Radlerpension Leebs is right on the Eurovelo 6 path and well situated. The only problem is that the wifi cuts out at about 8 pm and doesn’t return until midnight by which it’s too late of course. I mention it next morning to our hostess and she is surprised. We hope it won’t happen again. This evening, it’s working perfectly so everything seems in order.

Ybbs from the bike path
Ybbs from the bike path

By 10 am, it’s warm enough (15°C and promising to be sunny) to set out on our bikes. We are happy to be on a real bike path such as those we have always experienced in Germany and Austria, usually right on the edge of the Danube.

The view from the bridge between Persenbeug and Ybbs
The view from the bridge between Persenbeug and Ybbs

However, the signs are not that clear and we cross the bridge at Persenbeug on  the road instead of the bike path! After that, we follow a small sealed road along the Danube for about 10 kilometers. It’s not a bike path but the occasional car is not a problem.

A fishing competition on the Danube
A fishing competition on the Danube

We go past a number of fishermen evenly spaced along the riverside and Jean Michel says that with such sophisticated equipment, it has to be a competition.

A great place for a cappuccino
A great place for a cappuccino

When we get to Willersbach we’re ready for a cappuccino and Gasthof Zur Ruine Freyenstein has a terrace overlooking the Danube.

The Danube from the bike path
The Danube from the bike path

The scenery is not as stunning as it is on the S-bend and the Wachau but it’s still very pleasant and the temperature is gradually getting warmer.

Grein from the bike path
Grein from the bike path

We reach the bike ferry that goes to Grein after about 20 K but unfortunately, it stopped running at the end of September so we continue for a couple more kilometres to the bridge.

The historical centre of Grein
The historical centre of Grein

The little town of Grein has a very attractive historical centre, including Austria’s oldest theatre.

Austria's oldest theatre, built in 1791 in the former granary of the town hall built in 1563
Austria’s oldest theatre, built in 1791 in the former granary of the town hall built in 1563

We find an excellent place to eat with a terrace overlooking the main square. We order the schnitzel of the day – breaded with almonds – and have a buffet salad and a glass of wine for less than 30 euro. More expensive than Hungary of course, but less expensive than France.

The Danube on the way back
The Danube on the way back

We decide to go back along the way we came rather than stay on the Grein side and do a loop because although there is a bike path, it is mostly along the main road. The light has changed and gives us another view of the Danube.

The Radler Station with its imbiss
The Radler Station with its imbiss

On the way back, we see that the Radlerstation we noticed earlier also has a bar – an imbiss. I think it’s great that so much is done for cyclists here.

Autumn colours along the Danube
Autumn colours along the Danube

The fishermen are still fishing and we still don’t see any fish but friends have joined them in some places and there are a lot of barbecues and beer around.

The mediaeval building in Ybbs
The mediaeval building in Ybbs

We cycle into Ybbs but are somewhat disappointed. It’s not nearly as pretty as Grein and everything is closed. We were hoping for an ice-cream. On the edge of the Danube, however, we see some older buildings, including what appears to be a mediaeval construction (the tourist office is closed and we seem to have forgotten our guide book to Austria) – but still no ice-creams.

Persenbeug centre
Persenbeug centre

We manage to find the bike path to cross the river this time and cycle down into the centre of Persenbeug. I immediately see a café with Italian ice-cream so we are rewarded for our 59 K in 4 hours. At least this time we weren’t stressed about nightfall. We got back to our Radlerpension in Hagsdorf at an unprecedented 4.30 pm.

The view from the bike path into Hagsdorf
The view from the bike path into Hagsdorf

The weather forecast for tomorrow was supposed to be sunny and 19°C but all those Grüss Gotts don’t seem to be working. It’s now going to be overcast and 15°C. We may have to move on instead of staying another night. Sigh.

Five Unforgettable Places I Have Visited

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When we discovered Jeronimos Monastery in Lisbon recently, I added it to the list of places that have left an indelible mark on me because they were totally unexpected and totally overwhelming. At the same time, I was asked to participate in the Booked.net  Top Destinations to Go challenge by Anda from Travel Notes and Beyond. Choosing just five places was a hard task so Jean Michel and I pooled our favourites, which include both man-made and natural wonders.

The Sagrada Familia in Barcelona

The interior of Gaudi’s Basilica of the Holy Family is absolutely dazzling, breathtaking, overwhelming. There are no words to describe it and no photo to do it justice. It is the most amazing well of light imaginable. The brightly coloured stained glass windows that would be gaudy anywhere else are quite superb.

sagrada_familia

Gaudi was only 31 when he began working on the cathedral in 1883. It evolved considerably during his lifetime, becoming more and more audacious. Sadly, he was run over by a tram at the age of 73 and nearly all the plans destroyed by fire during the Civil War in 1936.

The pillars, which split into two halfway up to remove the need for flying buttresses, represent trees in a forest with leaves at the top. The pillars themselves have a special spiral design with fluting that increases in number as it gets higher and take us soaring up to the highest point, 45 metres above the ground. An unforgettable moment.

Plitvice Falls in Croatia

And to think that I nearly missed Plitvice Lakes National Park as a result of eating tainted prawns in Dubrovnik!

croatia_plitvika_2

Never had I seen colours like those in the Plitvice Lakes. Each view was more marvellous than the one before!

At 10 am, before the floods of tourists arrive, the upper path is simply an hour of magic to remember forever.

Tasman National Park in Australia

Our trip to Tasmania was somewhat disappointing, due to cold rainy weather. But the sun came out at last and we set off for Port Arthur. On the way, we followed a sign saying Blow Hole, Devil’s Kitchen and Tasman Arch.

Tasman's Arch
Tasman Arch

And what we saw was mind-blowing.

These natural formations along the rugged coastline about an hour and a half south of Hobart are dramatic and grandiose, leaving a impression of immensity that you will never forget.

Rila Monastery in Bulgaria

The initial impression of Rila Monastery built halfway up a mountain and surrounded by forest is quite fabulous.

View of Rila Monastery as you walk in
View of Rila Monastery as you walk in

Founded in the 10th century by the hermit St John of Rila, it was destroyed by fire in the 19th century and rebuilt between 1834 and 1862. Although characteristic of the Bulgarian Renaissance (18th-19th centuries), which symbolises the awareness of a Slavic cultural identity following centuries of occupation, it is quite unique.

The monastery museum contains the most fabulous carved cross I’ve ever seen produced painstakingly by a monk called Rafail, with 104 religious scenes and 650 miniature figures and 12 years in the making. It was hardly surprising that Rafail lost his sight in the process. Just one more reason to remember Rila.

The S-Bend in Austria

Cycling along the Danube from its source in Donau-Eschingen to Budapest was a magical experience in itself. One areas stands out in particular, the Wachau world heritage site in Austria between Linz in Austria and Passau in Germany and the S-Bend in particular.

The S-bend in the Wachau in Austria
The S-bend in the Wachau in Austria

The single most remarkable moment of the trip was the view of the S-bend from Schlogen blick.

We had spent the day cycling along tranquil car-free paths, going back and forth across the Danube on a series of little ferries, and now we could see our day’s journey spread out in majesty before us. A truly unforgettable moment.

So tell me, if you were asked to name your five most unforgettable places, what would you choose?

And if you’re a blogger, why don’t you join the To Destinations to Go challenge (and the chance to win an iPhone 6)? Click here for more information.

A safe travel guide for solo woman travellers – Scenery, sunshine and saddle bags on the Austrian Lakes – Paris-Orly train transfer tips

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Another all-Australian bloggers round-up this Wednesday, with advice from the ever-practical Jo Karnaghan from Frugal First Class Travel on safe travel for solo women travellers; a report from Carolyn from   Holidays to Europe on her recent cycling tour in a different part of Austria from us; and tips on transferring from Orly airport to various train stations in Paris from A House in France, written by an Aussie couple living in the south of France. Enjoy!

Travelling safely – A guide for solo woman travellers

by Jo Karnaghan from Frugal First Class Travel, an Australian who loves to travel – especially in Europe – and who has gradually learned how to have a First Class trip on an economy budget, without missing out on anything!

travelling_safe_soloOne of my lovely readers, Linda, recently contacted me about hotels in Paris that would be safe for her as a solo traveller.  Now, most of the time I travel in Europe I also travel alone.  It therefore got me thinking about the things I do to make sure I keep myself safe when I’m travelling solo.  Travelling safely is an important travel skill to master, so here are my top tips for safe and confident solo travel:

1.  Pack light

I know, I say this all the time, but packing light is travelling safe.  If you pack lightly you have less stuff to worry about.  On the train, it is easier to keep track of your luggage. Read more

Scenery, sunshine and saddle bags: My Austrian Lakes cycling tour

by Carolyn from Holidays to Europe, an Australian based business passionate about sharing their European travel expertise and helping travellers to experience the holiday in Europe they have always dreamed of

st-gilgenThere are some countries that hold a special place in a traveller’s heart and to me, Austria is one of those places. So what better way to get a closer look at a part of Austria I hadn’t visited before than on a cycling tour? I spent nine fantastic days in July doing just that, discovering some wonderful scenery and an appreciation for ‘slow travel’ along the way.

After comparing a few different itineraries offered by various companies I selected the 9 day Austrian Lakes Hike and Bike tour sold through UTracks in Australia. One of the big sellers for me was the fact that this tour spends two nights at Hallstatt, a town I had long wanted to visit. As the itinerary featured both walking days and cycling days, it also gave me the opportunity to have a ‘rest’ day on the walking days should I decide to. Read more

Paris-Orly train transfer tips

by A House in France – 2 Aussies living part-time in France who share their experiences

Catch the C line to Orly AirportWe had always flown in and out of Paris from Charles de Gaulle (CDG) airport until recently.

Our regional train down to our house in central France departs from Gare d’Austerlitz, and on one of our many jaunts through that train station we noticed that there were signs indicating the way to catch a train to Orly airport.

So when we found some cheap flights departing from Orly we thought it would be a good chance to check it out and compare it with the ease of getting to and from CDG. Read more

Monday’s Travel Phots – Krems an der Donau, Austria

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Krems is a pretty town of 24,000 inhabitants at the confluence of the Krems and Danube Rivers at the eastern end of the beautiful Wachau Valley in Austria, and about 70 kilometers from Vienna.

Steiner Tor at the entrance to the old town
Steiner Tor at the entrance to the old town
Main street of Krems
Main street of Krems
Piaristenkirche gothic church in Krems
Piaristenkirche gothic church in Krems
Typical oriel window
Typical oriel window
Covered stairs leading up to the church, very typical in the Wachau Valley
Covered stairs leading up to the church, very typical in the Wachau Valley
Wall painting in the Piarist church
Wall painting in the Piarist church
Houses in the old town
Houses in the old town
An old gasthaus in Krems
An old gasthaus in Krems
Turrets and white washed walls
Turrets and white washed walls

 

Monday’s Travel Photos – Melk in Austria

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Melk, a pretty little Baroque town of 5,000 people in Austria, is famous for its Benedictine Abbey built in the early 18th century on the site of an earlier abbey dating back to 1089 and affording a stunning view of Wachau Valley and the Danube. The abbey library contains numerous mediaeval manuscripts, including 750 incunables, while the church, completely renovated thirty years ago, is splendidly baroque.

The first view of Melk Abbey
The first view of Melk Abbey on the cycle path 
The Abbey dominates the town wherever you go
The Abbey dominates the town 
Mediaeval part of Melk
Example of mediaeval architecture in Melk 
Typical baroque building in Melk
Typical baroque building in Melk 
The entrance to Melk Abbey
The entrance to Melk Abbey 
The inner courtyard of Melk Abbey
The inner courtyard of Melk Abbey 
One of the beautiful painted ceilings in the Abbey
One of the beautiful painted ceilings in the Abbey 
Main room in the Abbey
The marble room where important visitors were always taken 
Staircase showing painted ceilings inside the Abbey
Staircase showing painted ceilings inside the Abbey
Elegant staircase inside the Abbey
Elegant staircase inside the Abbey
The Orangery at Melk Abbey
The Garten Pavillion at Melk Abbey 
Inside the Orangery
Inside the Garten Pavillion 
Inside the Abbey church
Interior of the Abbey church 
View of Wachau and the Danube from the Abbey
View of Wachau and the Danube from the Abbey 

Post-Holiday Depression and Miscellaneous Holiday Photos

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I’m not really sure how much sympathy I’ll get on this one – obviously the best way to avoid post-holiday depression is not to go on holidays, particularly month-long ones.

You can see how cold the wine is! Typical German 20 cl glass.
You can see how cold the wine is! Typical German 20 cl glass.

It’s amazing how quickly you get used to not working and being stress-free. No boring mundane activities either.

A quartet fountain in Germany at the source of the Danube
A  quintet fountain in Germany at the source of the Danube

A typical day during our cycling holiday was to get up around 8.30, get dressed, straighten the hotel room (after we discovered the cleaners usually came during breakfast) and go to the breakfast room. We would then put what we needed for the day in our sac de liaison and go out/down to the car. Jean Michel would take the bikes off the rack (unless we drove to our starting point first) while I would get the bags and paniers ready. Then we put on sunscreen plus insect screen for me and donned our caps.

Watch out for snakes on the bike path, particularly this one. I wasn't game to put my feet down.
Watch out for snakes on the bike path, particularly this one. I wasn’t game to put my feet down.

After cycling about half the day’s distance, we’d stop somewhere for lunch, then cycle the remaining distance, visiting various places along the way and picking up something for dinner towards the end of the journey. Sometimes we got back to the hotel around 5, but it was usually 7 or 8, because we wanted to make the most of the long twilight.

Reserved parking for mothers with small children in a supermarket car park
Reserved parking for mothers with small children in a supermarket car park

We then had an apéritif (except on fast days), followed by a light dinner in our room or on the balcony if we had one. After that, Jean Michel would write up the travel diary while I answered emails and wrote a blog post. We eventually got to bed around eleven or twelve, then read for a while. We usually fell asleep pretty quickly.

A foot bath along the Danube in Germany
A foot bath along the Danube in Germany

Now, I can’t say there is really a typical day at home because I freelance and weekends and weekdays are different as well. Jean Michel usually gets up earlier than I do to go to work so we don’t have breakfast together during the week so I wake up when I’m ready.

A flood gate to be used when the Danube is in spate in Austria
A flood gate to be used when the Danube is in spate in Austria

I prefer to work as much as I can in the mornings though because that is when I am the most efficient, but other things often get in the way. Also with the unusually hot weather we’ve been having so I would much rather stay in my air-conditioned office in the afternoon.

A traditional clothes shop in Austria with a traditional sales assistant
A traditional clothes shop in Austria with a traditional sales assistant

I came home to two very boring translations – one about a patent for an eye dropper that’s designed to use up the last drops in the bottle (I thought they purposely made droppers so you’d waste half the contents to tell you the truth) and another, much longer one, consisting of often cryptic messages in a software program for a company that sells industrial gas cylinders.

Calf kennels in Germany
Calf kennels in Germany

My work is not usually THAT boring but my most interesting clients all seem to be on holidays now (state-of-the-art bridges, cosmetics, contracts, etc.). Fortunately I’ve had some light relief for the last couple of days translating IT security recommendations. At least there are real sentences! But now I have to go back to the messages.

Vertical rubbish bins in Linz in Austria
Vertical rubbish bins in Linz in Austria

We went down to Blois for the weekend so that we could do something about the jungle that had developed during our 7-week absence. It’s amazing how quickly the vegetation takes over. Virginia creeper was completely covering the number of the house,  which isn’t very useful for the guests renting Closerie Falaiseau.

Bike parking in Germany
Bike parking in Germany

Apart from spending an hour cycling to and from the mushroom wood to no avail, and a couple of hours with our friends and neighbours on Saturday, the two days were completely taken up with gardening. On the Saturday evening, our lovely young German guests invited us to a most enjoyable barbecue!

Special bike locks at Melk Abbey in Austria
Special bike locks at Melk Abbey in Austria

So today I’m feeling very depressed, particularly since Leonardo’s now gone to Berlin to work for a few months and I have to get back to the software messages. Looking at the photos has made me even more nostalgic. I selected some I thought were typical.

Cycling along the Danube – Passau to Linz: the S-bend

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We’re staying at Gasthof Dexler in Niederranna on the Danube close to the S-bend between Linz in Austria and Passau in Germany so are able to start directly from our hotel. It turns out to be one of the highlights of our trip.

The bike path in front of Gasthof Dexler
The bike path in front of Gasthof Dexler

The sky is blue and it’s 22°C when we leave at 9.30 after saying goodbye to the Aussie cyclists. We come to the end of our shady cycle path at Au and take a little ferry across to Schlogen.

The first ferry crossing from Au
The first ferry crossing from Au

We cycle towards the second bend at Inzoll and take a rest stop at Gasthof Steindl and watch the river traffic.

Coffee break on the Danube at Inzoll
Coffee break on the Danube at Gasthof Steindl in Inzell

We continue on until we are opposite Untermühl. It’s wonderfully quiet and peaceful with no cars. However, by now I’m severely bitten by mosquitos because I’ve stupidly forgotten to use spray and although the little waterfalls along the way might be cute they’re a great breeding ground.

A little waterwall along the bike path between Inzell and Obermühl
A little waterwall along the bike path between Inzell and Obermühl

We locate the ferry opposite Untermühl, but there is no sign of a ferryman so I go to a nearby gasthof where I am told in German with appropriate handsigns that I have to press the button on the intercom near the ferry.

The intercom at the second ferry crossing opposite Untermühl
The intercom at the second ferry crossing opposite Untermühl

Fortunately a young German couple who speak English have arrived by then and are able to interpret the message that the ferryman will be there in 10 minutes. He soon turns up on his little tractor, jumps into the ferry and takes us across while Jean Michel studies the next part of the trip.

Studying up the route on the second ferry
Studying up the route on the second ferry

From Untermühl, we cycle back to Obermühl crossing a couple of rivers on the way and have the most delicious wiener schnitzel and a very cold glass of riesling on a shady terrace overlooking the Danube. By the time we get there, it’s 2.45. I just love the way they serve meals all day in Germany and Austria!

Lunch in the shade with a view of the Danube
Lunch in the shade with a view of the Danube

With renewed courage, we continue on to Steinbruch where we are to take another ferry which is already halfway across the Danube.

The third ferry coming back to get us
The third ferry coming back to get us

An Austrian couple waiting to go in the other direction (Aschach) tells us in English to call the ferryman on the intercom so he can come back and get us. I ask the man if he would mind doing it for us as I am afraid of not being understood.

Our mini-cruise along the Danube
Our mini-cruise along the Danube

This time, the ferry is bigger and our trip back up the river takes about 20 minutes – a little mini-cruise in the middle of the Danube.

From our ferry on the Danube
Looking back towards Au

We get out at Au and cycle back to our hotel, a total of 59 kilometers and a cycling time of 3 ½ hours. My knees are feeling a little wobbly!

Map taken from our travel diary showing Niederramma on the left where we began and Untermuhl where we began the return journey
Map taken from our travel diary showing Niederranna on the left where we began and Untermuhl where we began the return journey

It’s only 4.30 so Jean Michel suggests we go up to a blick (lookout) near Schlogen and get a bird’s eye view of the loop we have just ridden. We park the car and walk through the forest for about a quart of an hour before we reach the blick. The view is absolutely stunning.

The S-bend from the Schlogen blick
The S-bend from the Schlogen blick

When we get back to the car the sky is threatening and we can only spend a few minutes on the terrace before the rain starts. I have the brilliant idea of taking the table and chairs into the room so we enjoy our apéritif watching the rain and reminiscing over our truly exceptional day.

The 5:2 Fast Diet on Holidays

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You may remember I started the 5:2 fast diet about 2 weeks before we left on holidays, desperately hoping it would allow me to wear all my summer clothes again. Well, it worked but I wondered how it would go once we were actually on holiday particularly as I wasn’t sure whether or not Jean Michel would join me.

Picnic table and barbecue in Germany
Picnic table and barbecue in Germany

We left on a Monday which was a fast day for me. Jean Michel had a regular breakfast whereas I decided to skip mine. We both had the same lunch with an extra 100 calories for Jean Michel because men are entitled to 600 calories and women to 500, and the same dinner. By then we were in Germany and with the long twilight, we were able to cycle for 2 hours (29 kilometers) afterwards. I was surprised to feel neither tired nor hungry.

Vegetable and fruit stalls in Germany
Vegetable and fruit stalls in Germany

After that, we both fasted twice a week throughout our month’s holiday, with the exception of one day when it proved to be impossible for logistic reasons. When we could, we tried to make our fast day coincide with moving from one place to another, but even on those days, we still cycled in the evening. On other fast days, we cycled 40 or 50 kilometers without any problem, to Jean Michel’s surprise in particular.

Typical lunch in Germany
Typical lunch in Germany

On the other days, we usually ate a bit more for breakfast than we normally do, especially Jean Michel who always has trouble resisting a buffet. We then had lunch in a local restaurant, eating high-calorie foods such as wiener schnitzel and knudels, accompanied by a glass of wine. We often had an ice-cream in the afternoon as well. In the evening, we had a glass or two of wine with pistachios, followed by a salad we made ourselves, often with bread and cheese. Sometimes we had a picnic at lunch time and ate out in the evening. A couple of times we skipped lunch or dinner because we’d had a big breakfast or lunch.

Diet coke and ice-cream when it's very hot!
Diet coke and ice-cream when it’s very hot!

I would say that the only complicated part was planning ahead for fast days because the only time we were able to cook for ourselves was a short 4-day period during the second part of the trip. We did, however, have a car fridge, which helped considerably. To make things easier, we nearly always ate the same thing on fast days: black coffee for breakfast then 2 boiled eggs, cucumber, tomatoes and a piece of fruit for lunch (plus a slice of bread or tabouli for Jean Michel). In the evening, we ate yoghurt, fromage blanc, lettuce, tomato, carrot, capsicum and a piece of fruit.

Buffet breakfast in Austria
Buffet breakfast in Austria

In Germany, Austria and Hungary, hard boiled eggs were nearly always available for breakfast at our hotel or gasthaus, so on fast days, we would just have our coffee and take two eggs and a piece of fruit with us as we left. I also kept a tin of tuna in the car in case we ran out of yoghurt and fromage blanc.

Not only did I not put any weight back on, but I lost another kilo!

Spinach pancakes and cheese in Hungary
Spinach pancakes and cheese in Hungary

I found it very liberating not to have to worry about what was going to be served in a restaurant, particularly as my knowledge of German did not allow me to know what I was getting most of the time, let alone negotiate vegetables instead of dumplings, for example, as I would have done in France or Australia. I was also able to have food I don’t usually eat because of its high calorie content, such as wiener schnitzel, apfel strudel and ice-cream, and taste the local dishes.

A glass of wine on the terrace in Austria
A glass of wine on the terrace in Austria

It was wonderful to be able to have a glass or two of wine in the evening with nuts. Skipping meals when not hungry, after a big breakfast or lunch, is something I’ve never done because I was always told it would make me put on weight. Well, it’s just not true.

Indulging in cake and hot chocolate in Bratislava
Indulging in cake and hot chocolate in Bratislava

Only a couple of times during the entire month, and only on a fast day, did I feel hungry at any time and then, the feeling soon passed. Jean Michel found it harder, but he is also used to eating more than me because he is generally more active.

Crumbed fish in Budapest
Crumbed fish in Budapest

So I shall continue to have fast two days a week until I have lost another two kilos then try fasting once a week. If that doesn’t work, I’ll go back to twice a week. I believe that it’s something I can envisage doing for the rest of my life and certainly much better than having to be careful about what I eat every day.

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