From Pont des Arts to Ladurée on the Champs Elysées

It’s Sunday afternoon. We’ve recovered from our early Christmas celebrations on Saturday night and I want to take some photos of Paris in its end-of-year finery. Our first stop is the Pont des Arts, shiny with lovelocks. It’s nearly 6 pm so we wait, with a number of other people, for the Eiffel Tower to shimmer and shine. I regret not having taken the camera, just the iPhone because the result isn’t quite what I hoped.

Eiffel Tower shimmering and shaking from the Pont des Arts
Eiffel Tower shimmering and shaking from the Pont des Arts

We then decide to walk to the Champs Elysées along the Left Bank of the river. We walk down to the water’s edge and past the Calife and look back at the bridge with Pont Neuf in the distance. We go up the next lot of steps and past the closing bouquinistes who are all selling lovelocks of every shape and kind. It’s become a real business!

Padlocks for sale at the bouquinistes near the Pont des Arts
Padlocks for sale at the bouquinistes near the Pont des Arts

As we go past rue de Seine, Relationnel remarks that it’s very rare to see Christmas decorations in the streets of Paris, unlike the provinces. We can now see the Louvre on the right and Big Wheel on its left, having moving from its summer spot near the Louvre. As we get closer, we see a lit-up pencil shape and wonder what it is. We cross over via the Solferino pedestrian bridge and realise that it is a Christmas tree, apparently the largest in Europe.

Big wheel from the Tuileries Garden with the biggest Christmas tree in Europe
Big wheel from the Tuileries Garden with the biggest Christmas tree in Europe

We walk down the Tuileries towards the Big Wheel avoiding the enormous puddles and are amazed by how commercial and popular the wheel has become in recent years. I think one of the reasons is that the cabins are closed in now. I’m annoyed about my fear of heights because the view from up there must be amazing.

Christmas decorations at Rond Point des Champs-Elysées
Christmas decorations at Rond Point des Champs-Elysées

As we cross Place de la Concorde towards the Champs Elysées, we’re suddenly in a huge throng of people all attracted by the so-called Christmas market. We’ve been there before though and haven’t found anything interesting – no handicrafts, just a lot of cheap food and factory-made items so we walk along behind the stalls until we reach Rond Point des Champs Elysées. The decorations are stunning and there are fewer people.

Arc of Triumph
Arc of Triumph

We keep going until we reach Virgin and decide to go and buy a card for the camera.  Despite the number of people, we also buy a couple of DVDs and a CD and don’t even have to wait in line to pay. CDs don’t seem as popular any more! By then, we’ve been walking for an hour and a half and my feet are killing me. We look around for a suitable café but all we can see is Starbucks and other similar places.

laduree_outside

We cross the road and I take the typical tourist photo of the Arc of Triumph halfway across and I see Ladurée in front of me. Now, strange as this may seem, I have still never been into Ladurée’s, famous for its macarons. We’re informed that the tearoom is closed (well, it’s nearly 7.30!). We have to choose between the restaurant and the bar.

Art deco wall in the bar at Ladurée Champs Elysées
Art deco wall in the bar at Ladurée Champs Elysées

Well, I’m perfectly happy with the bar. Despite appearances, Ladurée Champs Elysées only opened in 1997 although the original bakery near the Madeleine dates back to 1862. The bar is decorated in what looks like authentic Art Deco and you sit on high stools that keep swinging around. We order a class of Saint Véran and a plate of tapas each.

Bouchées/tapas at Ladurée
Bouchées/tapas at Ladurée

They aren’t really tapas, more like bouchées, but they’re delicious. I use my Evernote Food app for the first time and record what we’re eating: crab & mayonnaise puff, foie gras, candied aubergine, Provençales tomatoes and salmon prestige. When we come out, there aren’t nearly so many people, so we take the metro home to spare my feet. It’s good to be back in Paris!

Christmas is Over Already

Black Cat left for New York today with the Flying Dutchman for Christmas and New Year, so we celebrated Christmas early his year, on Saturday evening, as both Relationnel’s sons were free as well. Leonardo, of course, was asleep in Sydney. I got back from Blois on Friday night so Relationnel and I spent Saturday rushing around buying the rest of the presents and ingredients for our Christmas feast. All very exhausting!

verrines

We started with 3 verrines (avocado, pink grapefruit & prawns;  eggplant purée, ricotta & cherry tomatoes; zucchini, basil & fromage blanc purée with parmesan chips & walnuts) and a spoon (pumpkin & spice purée) with a glass of champagne.

After that, we pulled the Christmas crackers and laughed at the silly jokes, followed by the present opening. We dispensed with the traditional shoes under the Christmas tree, which Black Cat had decorated earlier in the evening and Relationnel played Santa instead.

relationnel_champagne

This was followed by (small portions of) spéciale oysters, smoked salmon and foie gras with quincy bought at the wine fair recently (a Loire Valley sauvignon not unlike sancerre) by which time I totally forgot to take any photos, which is a pity because the foie gras was decorated with mini muffins of my making, a few leaves of leafy greens and 15 year old balsamic vinegar. Three of the plates looked very professional.

The main course was côte de bœuf with Darphin potatoes (Black Cat’s choice) and oven-baked eggplant, zucchini and bell peppers, this time accompanied by a 1979 Saint Emilion.

table

Dessert consisted of two verrines – Columbian coffee panna cotta with Speculoos (Belgian brown sugar & ginger biscuits) and apple crumble & French custard – and the rest of the mini muffins, with another glass of champagne of course! No cake, of course, because I made it too late …

May I wish you all a very happy and joyous Christmas with a special thought for those who have suffered recent losses.

Our Anniversary Dinner in the Loire

This is not our wedding anniversary, which is in June, but the anniversary of the day we met which we consider far more significant. We used to go back to our first restaurant called Les Deux Chevrons in the 15th in Paris – it had really wonderful pan-fried foie gras – but one day it had the temerity to close so we decided we go to a different place each year. Now that the years have gone by (15!), we have clocked up quite a few different restaurants. I’m embarrassed to admit that I don’t remember where we went last year.

Dining room at Le Lion d'Or Val de Loire in Candé sur Beuvron
Dining room at Le Lion d’Or Val de Loire in Candé sur Beuvron

Relationnel was supposed to be arriving in Blois on 7th December but when I realised the 6th was our anniversary, he rescheduled a couple of meetings and came on the 6th (minus his suit, shirt and cuff links for the Loire Connexion Christmas party, but with two hats). I had tracked down and booked a restaurant recommended by a friend: Le Lion d’Or Val de Loire.

Apéritif verrines

It was a country inn, in the little town of Candé sur Beuvron which we knew from cycling this summer, with lots of oak beams and panelling. Only three tables were occupied but it was a weekday in winter, out in the sticks, so it wasn’t surprising. I wonder sometimes how these places manage to keep afloat but it has a terrace and is obviously very popular in the warmer months.

Foie gras
Foie gras

We started with pétillant de Touraine (Susan, are you listening?) because we’ve discovered that the champagne here is horrifically expensive. It was served with a verrine of fromage blanc and spices with granny smith apple on top, little savoury cummin croissants and nut & olive cakes, followed by  a beetroot emulsion with spices and prawns.

Foie gras accompaniment
Foie gras accompaniment

We chose the fixed menu at 42 euro. For starters, Relationnel had lobster ravioli with three types of cabbage and a crustacean and coriander emulsion while I had foie gras, served with mixed leafy greens and candied figs (delicious).

Ris de veau
Ris de veau

As a main course, Relationnel chose the braised ris de veau, “forgotten” (as in dug up from the past) vegetables and cream sauce. I had baked monkfish on a saffron mussel nage with mashed Vitelot potatoes with herbs and lemon zests. Unfortunately the fish was either overcooked or deep frozen, which made it very tough and rubbery.

Cheese platter
Cheese platter

We then had an excellent cheese platter (even though we certainly didn’t need it!) followed by a “mango-chocolate-praliné” dessert with passionfruit coulis for Relationnel and “French toast” made with pain d’épices, poached pear in spices, caramel and brown sugar biscuit (spéculos) ice-cream for me. The pain d’épices wasn’t brilliant either.

Chocolate dessert
Chocolate dessert

Coffee was served with a chestnut cream and fromage blanc verrine with fruit jelly squares and little biscuits. We had a lovely evening even though the food (and service) were uneven. Perhaps it would be better to go during the weekend or in peak season when there is a greater turnover. It was much better than “Le Rendez Vous du Pêcheur” in any case!

After-dinner verrines
After-dinner verrines
LE LION D’OR 1 Route de Blois – 41120 Candé sur Beuvron Tél. : 02.54.44.04.66  http://www.leliondor-41.com
 

Two Hats are Better Than One

Relationnel and I have a collection of Australian Akubra and Stetson hats that we wear in winter. When we’re going away and packing the car, we often put two or more on top of each other to carry downstairs.

It’s 1.30 pm and Relationnel’s rushing to get everything in the car as quickly as he can so he can leave Paris straight after work and arrive in Blois in time for our anniversary dinner. When the car’s packed, he leaves it in the street and walks down the street to the office.

two_hats

On the way, he meets a couple of people he knows and they give him a strange look but he didn’t know why.

When he gets to the office, one of his coworkers says, “That’s an interesting way to wear a hat”, but he still doesn’t understand the problem. “Why, what’s the matter?” “Well, I don’t know. That not the usual way to wear a hat is it.” So he takes it off and discovers he’s wearing two!

Croc Monsieur: Meet Adam Ruck, The Man Who Cycles in Crocs! – One man’s faith – a visit to Sagrada Familia, Barcelona – English French words

Some interesting posts this Wednesday on very different subjects. Stephanie, the Llamalady from Blog in France, interviews English cyclist Adam Ruck, author of France on Two Wheels, about his bike trip across France. Australian blogger Frugal First Class Travel, whom I discovered recently, describes the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. She also has lots of tips for winter travelling. Regina from Petite Paris, the Australian website that has all those wonderful B&Bs in Paris, talks about all the French words that exist in English. Enjoy!

Croc Monsieur: Meet Adam Ruck, The Man Who Cycles in Crocs!

Interview by Stephanie, the Llamalady, from Blog in France

with Adam Ruck, author of France on Two Wheels “… a terrific guide to the culture, history, food, B&Bs and other French delights”. He also blogs on cycling and skiing in Adam’s Blog

adamloire-300x218It’s amazing who you meet on Twitter. Through my @llamamum account, I happened across Adam Ruck, author of France on Two Wheels. As a keen cyclist, I’m always interested to find out about fellow cyclists so I contacted Adam and asked if he’d write a guest post for me. And here it is.

Many travel books start as a publishing or fundrasing idea, and most travel articles start as that ghastly word, an angle. Others develop out of a real holiday or journey, and my book, France on Two Wheels, falls into that category.

A friend rang me to say he was looking for someone with whom to ‘bicycle’ (he does hate the word ‘cycle’ unless applied to washing machines or the economy) to or from Switzerland. I agreed to the return trip. Read more

One man’s faith – a visit to Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

by Frugal First Class Travel, an Australian who loves to travel – especially in Europe – and who has gradually learned how to have a FirstClass trip on an economy budget, without missing out on anything!

sagada_familiaI’m not a religious person.  In fact I’m a card carrying atheist.  But I couldn’t help but be so moved when I recently visited the Sagrada Familia – the Gaudi designed Basilica in Barcelona.  Building has been underway for over 100 years now, and there are plans (hopes?) to complete the works in time for the centenary of Gaudi’s death in 2026.

Gaudi was a very religious man apparently, and it was this faith that drove him to spend the bulk of his life (and indeed until the end of his life) dedicated to this project.  But the Sagrada Familia is not just a testament to religious faith.  Regardless of your own spiritual beliefs, consider this:

Gaudi knew the church would never be completed in his own lifetime, but he did it anyway. Read more

English French Words

by Petite Paris, an Australian-based service for Australian travellers and fellow Francophiles

It’s incredible (“uncreaaabl”) how many English words are actually French!! And every single one of them sounds so chic (oops there’s one) and glamorous!! Décor, couture, décolletage, negligee, deja vu, rendezvous, fiancé, boutique, bric-a-brac, encore…

At this moment I am listening to my Michel Thomas audio – learning to speak French without any memorizing, writing, homework or even trying for that matter. It’s brilliant! No pressure to learn, just listening and ‘hearing’ what your listening to. Its amazing how it flows in and stays there – the next thing you know your constructing sentences in your head with so much ease it couldn’t possibly be normal. Its a practical and modern method of teaching. I highly recommend it!! [AND SO DO I – Fraussie] Read more

The Fireplace is Not Finished

The fireplace is not finished. Relationnel has gone back to Paris without me because the balcony in the Palais Royal is not finished either. We will not be welcoming in the New Year with a glass of champagne and homemade foie gras in front of a blazing fire. Unless we postpone New Year until the fireplace is finished. Which is what I think we might do. It might be less depressing.

Back of the fireplace with chicken wire over a very uneven surface
Back of the fireplace with chicken wire over a very uneven surface

You may remember that the last time Relationnel left Closerie Falaiseau, the back of the fireplace was lined with chicken wire, waiting to be covered with refractory mortar. Given the slow progress up until then, he decided to take a week’s holiday so that he could finish it completely. I was so pleased to have him back again after 10 days that I immediately offered to help with the mortar.

I got dressed in my coveralls, shoe covers and surgeon’s gloves while Relationnel got the mortar ready. None of this measuring bit. He just tipped the powder into a trough and then added water au pif, as the French say (pif is slang for nose). He mixed it round and it eventually had the right consistency. It looked deceptively easy.

Trowel and smoothing rectangle
Trowel and smoothing rectangle

Then he demonstrated how you hold up a large trowel at right angles to the wall, then with your other hand, you use a smaller trowel to somehow push the mortar onto the wall and flatten it on over the chicken wire. Ten minutes of that had me in tears. Not only didn’t my mortar stick but my whole body was hurting.

My gardening stool for time out
My gardening stool for time out

I put my trowel down and went over to have some time out on my gardening stool for a while. I watched Relationnel and tried to learn his technique. The first thing I realised was that he had shown me the technique for right handers. Which I’m not (although I later discovered that my relative ambidextrousness was very handy).  I went back and tried again, this time using a large plastic rectangle with a handle on the back instead of the trowel. It made a big difference, I can tell you. By some miracle, the mortar then started to stick. Well, some of it anyway, but it seems that professionals drop a lot along the way as well. You just scoop it up and put it back again.

Mortar 2/3 finished
Mortar 2/3 finished

We worked steadily on and I started to feel more on top of things, particularly as we got past kneeling level and I could sit on my gardening stool which relieved my back and hands no end. Relationnel suggested I try mixing up the next batch of mortar. The bag was so heavy I couldn’t lift it so he tipped it in then added some water. I couldn’t even stir the mixture with the trowel it was so stiff so I set to with my hands.

Paint blender
Paint blender

It was worse than mixing the Christmas cake. The cement and water eventually penetrated the surgeon’s gloves and became cold and sticky so Relationnel came to the rescue. It seemed a bit ludicrous not to have some sort of beater to make the process easier. When I mentioned this to Relationnel, he suddenly remembered that he had an attachment for mixing paint. He had to buy some mason’s pails first and use a really big drill, but the attachment didn’t break and it reduced the mixing time amazingly.

To cut a long story short, we finished the first section, using a large ruler to make sure it was even and smoothing it all out with my plastic rectangle. I have to confess that I thought the whole operation was pretty dicey considering the unevenness of the walls. I was pretty amazed at the result.

Mortar almost finished
Mortar almost finished

However, when we started the next section the following day, I found the mortar very stiff and had a lot of trouble getting it to stick on the wall. In the end I managed to get it on and when we finished the first layer of the second section, Relationnel came over to smooth my side down as I didn’t have enough strength in my wrists. As soon as he touched it, it all just peeled off, like marzipan on a cake. I was devastated.

That set off another flood of tears. I was particularly worried that what I had done the day before was going to peel off at some future point in time but Relationnel reassured me. In fact, after mixing up the next batch of mortar, he realised that it needed to be more liquid. I tried again with the new mortar, getting him to check that it was OK all the time, but in fact, it was fine.

After completing the visible part of the back of the fireplace in a total of three sections, I then looked after the last smoothing and evening operation, which fortunately was very successful so I was slightly mollified. Relationnel was was very proud of me.

More completely finished
Mortar completely finished and smoothed

That night I practically cut the tip off of my small finger cutting up pumpkin which put paid to any further contribution and seriously disabled me for 48 hours as I could no longer touch type correctly. I’m sure you want to know what happened next, but I am going to keep it for the next episode!

Aussie in France wins Expat Blog Honour Award!

Great news for Aussie in France which has been awarded  the Honourable Mention Award for Best Expat Blog in France!

Moving to France

Thank you to everyone who sent in a review (and to those whose busy lives prevented them from doing so but who expressed their appreciation of the blog in private). I was very touched and encouraged by all your comments. The greatest joy I get out of writing my blog is knowing that someone out there in cyberspace is having a little chuckle or learning a new fact about French life or following up a suggestion of something to do or see when they are visiting this wonderful country or one of my holiday destinations.

The second greatest joy is reading your comments. It’s always surprising to see which posts attract the most reaction from readers! The other great joy is making new friends across the world, some of whom I have been able to meet up with either in France or Australia.

I would, of course, like to extend a big thank you to Expats Blog for hosting the awards.

You can see all the reviews on http://www.expatsblog.com/blogs/526/aussie-in-france. And do take a look at the other blogs as well if you haven’t already done so. There are 89 in all! Congratulations to the other award winners.The Gold award goes to Little Pieces of Light, Silver to From Paris to Pureza and Bronze to Sara in Le Petit Village. The other blogs who also received Honourable Mentions are Tales from the Chambre de Bonne, Oui in France, Lost in Cheeseland, Paris in Four Months and Peter’s Paris. You’ll find them all on http://www.expatsblog.com/blogs/france.

I also thought you might be interested to know who my readers are. In the past twelve months, 14,600 people have visited the blog, including 67% new visitors and 33% returning visitors, with an average of 2 pages per visit. A little over one third are from France (5700), with Australia next in line (4900), followed by the US (3900) and UK (1600). After that we have Canada, Germany, Italy, India and Spain, while the remainder is shared among an astounding 136 countries! My most popular post by far is Five Places to Lunch Near the Louvre in Paris!

For those who have subscribed but don’t receive posts in their email in-box, I suggest that you subscribe again. You will then receive an email requesting you to confirm your subscription. If you don’t carry out this last step, the subscription doesn’t work. I can see that this has happened to several people.

So I’m looking forward to many more hours of blogging and interacting with you, my readers!

Monday’s Travel Photos – the Roof Tops of Chambord

Fellow Australian Susan from Days in the Claise, who also lives in the Loire Valley, but in the southern part of Touraine, has done a series of posts on Chambord Castle recently. We cycled there several times this summer, you may remember, but didn’t visit the inside. I didn’t think there was much beside the famous double revolution staircase. Intrigued by Susan’s posts, however, I decided to visit as soon as possible. A visit from Australian friend Kathy Standford from Femmes Francophiles and her husband yesterday was the perfect excuse.

Château de Chambord after a summer downpour
Château de Chambord after a summer downpour

All the photos below are all taken from the rooftops, which must be one of the most stunning examples of architecture I’ve ever seen. François I was only 25 when he commissioned the château in 1519. Unfortunately, despite the 2000 workmen, it wasn’t completed in his lifetime and he only stayed there for 72 days out of his 32 years on the throne! He used it as a hunting lodge of course and it was not furnished – he used to travel around with everything he could possible need – including the kitchen sink. But his son, Henri II, and Louis XIV, who also loved hunting, turned it into the château we know today.

Renaissance staircase seen from the rooftops
Renaissance staircase seen from the rooftops
Middle tower over the famous double Revolution staircase
Middle tower over the famous double Revolution staircase
The downpipe is nearly identical to the ones in the Tuileries Gardens!
The downpipe is nearly identical to the ones in the Tuileries Gardens!
The different roofs all fit together in the most intricate way
The different roofs all fit together in the most intricate way
Another elaborate detail
Another elaborate detail

chambord_roof_4 chambord_roof_3 chambord_roof_2 chambord_roof_1 View looking out over the canal

Winter has come to Blois

Winter has come to Blois and the fireplace at Closerie Falaiseau is not ready. Which is to be expected. Snow came surprisingly early this year, but didn’t last long thank goodness. We’ve had some very cold nights (-5°C) which challenged the underfloor heating system upstairs but when Relationnel woke up to 15°C in the bedroom the first morning, he read the literature and made the necessary adjustments. Today, however, I decided to add a layer of clothing, particularly on my legs. I’m not used to this in my overheated flat in Paris! The first of the photos below was taking from my office window on 5th and the last on the 12th so you can see how quickly the leaves disappeared.

Late afternoon sun on 5th December
Icy water on the birdbath on 6th December
First snow on 7th December
Pansies on 8th December – apparently they don’t mind the snow and cold!
Cold and sunny on 11th December
Early morning frost on 12th December

The Carpet Salesman

There’s an expression in French: “C’est un vrai marchand de tapis” which literally means “he’s a real carpet salesman” but which actually means someone who haggles over small sums.

I’ve managed to find nearly everything I need to make our gîte in Blois as perfect as possible, but I am still missing two small bedside rugs. I can’t find anything I liked, new or old, at a decent price although I have found two large rugs without much problem. With the arrival of winter, especially for barefoot Australian guests, I am starting actively to look again.

Our favourite fishmonger at Saint Eustache market

It’s Sunday and we’re at the market. I’m waiting for the fish to be gutted so I stroll over to a little stall selling carpets and rugs. This is not a particularly cheap market, I might add. I ask the lady how much a small one would cost as there are obviously no prices. “Oh, I’ll ask my husband. He’ll be here in a minute”. A friendly man arrives and says, “One hundred euro. Pure silk”.

“Oh, that’s too expensive I’m afraid,” I answer. “It’s for my gîte and I can’t afford to spend too much. I’m not saying it isn’t worth that much, just that it’s above my budget.” I don’t really care whether I buy them or not and am certainly not paying a hundred euro each. “Well”, he says, “tell me how much you’d be prepared to spend.”

Our bargain rugs

“More like two for a hundred,” I say. “Ok, you can have two for a hundred”, he says, just like that. I’m flabbergasted, but I don’t show it. “I just need to check with my husband”, I answer. He goes off to his truck to find the second rug while I go back to the fish stall and tell Relationnel that I’ve found the rugs I’m looking for. “Go ahead,” he says. “You know what we need.” “Yes, but I still want you to have a look.”

I’m wondering if maybe these rugs are fake or something. I go back and chat with the lady. The man returns without the second rug but says that he has two others that are the same, just a different colour. I hum and ha, though I really think the second colour is probably better anyway.

In-situ to keep our guests’ feet warm

Relationnel arrives and turns the rug over and looks at the label. He approves so I hand over the cash and the man rolls them both up. As we walk away, I explain to Relationnel what happened. He is astonished, “Bravo!” he says. I never bargain for anything usually – I’m totally hopeless, he’s much better at it. “He’s not a marchand de tapis for nothing”, he says. I walk along feeling very pleased with myself!

N.B. The Expat Blog Award closes on 15th December – don’t forget to leave a review if you haven’t already – http://www.expatsblog.com/blogs/526/aussie-in-france

from the Tropics to the City of Light