Cycling in Germany #19 – Bernkastel on the Moselle – a hidden treasure

Print pagePDF pageEmail page

We arrive in Bernkastel at about 1.30 pm after a 4-hour drive from Hann Münden with only a couple of rough patches on the motorway. I wouldn’t have liked to be going in the other direction around Hanover though. The line-up seemed to go on forever. One thing I will not regret are the German motorways.

hospital

The sun is out although the temperature is not that high. We have a light lunch at the Weinkulturel centre which is next to the 15th century Saint Nicolas hospital where they only ever have 33 patients because it was the  age at which Christ died. In any case, it’s a very lovely spot.

landhaus_view

We have to check in at our ferienwohnung (holiday flat) between 2 and 3 pm. The owner is very friendly and speaks good English. The flat is fairly rudimentary but has a little balcony with an excellent view of the vine-covered hillside and the ruins of the Burg Landshut castle on the other side of the Moselle if you ignore the school in the foreground. The big problem is the internet connection which only works if I sit on the step between the entrance and the living room. I try moving the small sofa but one of the legs falls off … not our best accommodation.

first_platz

After a short shopping excursion, we set out on our bikes directly from the flat 15-K downstream to Lösnich. On the way , we discover a small platz in Bernkastel which we find attractive and get some brochures from the tourist office next door.

downstream_view

We’re a little disappointed with the countryside which corresponds to what we initially saw around Kondorf. Jean Michel is a little worried that it’s not going to bet any better. Also, we are often parallel to the road.

sundial

We see some interesting sundials, though, in the middle of the vineyards. They were built in the 19th century so that the workers knew when to knock off for lunch or go home for the day!

landhaus_night

On our return to Bernkastel, we can’t find a restaurant to our liking so end up going home, which is actually much more relaxing and we’re really not that hungry. We watch the sun set over Burg Landshut on our little balcony.

The bed turns out to be a disaster – hard and creaky. The pillow gives me a sore neck so I don’t have a very good night despite the good shutters. I’m really starting to long for my own bed.

return_view_2

Today, we’re heading 25 km upstream to Neumagen-Dhron. The scenery is much prettier and the bike path is closer to the river and we go through a lot of little villages.

neogothic

In Lieser, we see a very unusual 19th century Neo-gothic building that is obviously being refurbished. It has some amazing details on the façade including mosaics and fish-shaped gutters.

weingut

We come across any number of weinguts or wineries but no cafés, not even for radlers (cyclists). We finally get some coffee at Peter’s bäckerei in where I have to bring out the coffee myself.

steep_path

Our bike path includes some nearly vertical sections which I’m flat out wheeling my bike up but Jean Michel, who’s been riding a bike since primary school, cycles up with great aplomb.

vertical_vineyards

Most of the vineyards which encircle us on every side are also nearly vertical! In one place, there is obviously no other way to get to one lot of vines except by boat.

chapel

I spy a little roadside chapel whose legend is explained in English for once. Probably in the 17th century, a wooden cross swirled around in the same place when the river was in spate, pointing in the direction of the village of Ferres. This was taken as a sign to build a chapel. Today, the locals call it Ferres Cathedral because of its great importance to them.

private_museum

Further down the road, there is a house that looks like it has a second-hand shop on its wall!

lunch_hotel

As we cycle past Piesport, I see a couple of likely lunch spots just in case Neumagen-Dhron doesn’t have anything better to offer. I’m right and by the time we get back to Piesport along the other side of the river, we are well and truly ready for our trocken weiss wein! It must be about 28°C.

lunch_view

We choose the Karthäuserhof with its inviting parasols, and only the bike path between us and the river. We manage to communicate with the very jovial waitress and enjoy our wiener art schnitzels and pommes frites.

return_view

It’s a bit difficult to get back on our bikes after such high calorie food (not to mention the wine) and we seem to go up and down a lot among the vineyards but we finally reach Bernkastel ready for an ice-cream.

market_platz

I suggest we go further than the platz we’ve already visited and to our immense surprise, the little streets are very pretty (and full of tourists). Then we come out into Marktplatz and look at each other in bemusement. Why isn’t this mentioned in our guidebooks and the local brochures? The 16th and 17th century façades are really beautiful.

weingut_bernkastel

After wandering around we finally end up at a shady table at the Ratskeller with a glass of wine and our binoculars studying all the wonderful architectural features. I see that the façades are not just painted but carved as well. They also have some lovely wind vanes.

town_gate

Before we go and visit the only remaining town gate, we enter the nearby weingut, Robert Schmitz-Herges, which looks as though it might keel over any moment, and buy an excellent 2010 Spitzhäusen riesling classic at 4.90 euro a bottle! All the vineyards are around Bernkastel.

What a perfect way to end the day!

OTHER POSTS ABOUT CYCLING IN GERMANY

Cycling in Germany – Tips & Tricks
Cycling in Germany #1 – Kobern-Kondorf on the Moselle
Cycling in Germany #2 – Rhine from Saint Goar to Lorch
Cycling in Germany #3 – Cochem to Zell on the Moselle
Cycling in Germany #4 – Koblenz where the Moselle meets the Rhine
Cycling in Germany #5 – Bad Schaugen to Pirna along the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #6 – Bastei Rocks, Honigen and over the border to Czech Republic 
Cycling in Germany #7 – Dresden: accommodation & car trouble and Baroque Treasure  
Cycling in Germany #8 – Dresden Neustadt: Kunsthof Passage, Pfund’s Molkerei, a broom shop & trompe l’oeil
Cycling in Germany #9 – Country roads around Niderlommatzsch on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #10 – Meissen on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #11 – Martin Luther Country: Torgau on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #12 – Martin Luther Country: Wittenberg on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #13 – Wörlitz Gardens and the beginning of neo-classicism in Germany
Cycling in Germany #14 – Shades of Gaudi on the Elbe: Hundertwasser
Cycling in Germany – Turgermünde, the prettiest village on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #16 – Celle & Bremen
Cycling in Germany #17 – Windmills & Dykes
Cycling in Germany #18 – Painted façades from Hann. Münden to Höxter
Cycling in Germany #19 – Bernkastel on the Moselle: a hidden treasure
Cycling in Germany #20 – Trier & the Binoculars Scare
 
Cycling along the Danube – A Renaissance festival in Neuburg, Bavaria
Cycling along the Danube – Watch out for trains!
Cycling along the Danube – Regensburg & Altmuhle
Cycling along the Danube –  The Weltenburg Narrows
Cycling along the Danube – from its source to Ehingen
Cycling along the Danube – Ehingen to Ulm
Cycling along the Danube – Singmarigen to Beuron
Cycling along the Danube – Binzwangen to Mengen including  Zwiefalten
Eurovelo 6 – Cycling around Lake Constance
Eurovelo 6 – Moos to Stein am Rhein and Steckborn on Lake Constance
Heading home to France after a month’s cycling holiday
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...
This entry was posted in Accommodation, Architecture, Cycling, Food, Germany, Restaurants and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.

44 Responses to Cycling in Germany #19 – Bernkastel on the Moselle – a hidden treasure

  1. Spectacular shots!

    The castle ruins really appeal to me.

  2. Judi Knoop says:

    Your cycling trips are encouraging me to consider doing one myself. Been a long time since I’ve ridden a bike, but living in Tasmania there are many beautiful places to trial it.
    Next problem would be where to go on a bike tour – so many gorgeous places in Europe to consider.
    I envy your life in France.

  3. breadispain says:

    I’m loving seeing all your photos! The building in Lieser is too cool. What a fantastic trip – jealous!

    • Rosemary Kneipp says:

      Glad you’re enjoying the photos. I wonder if one day the building in Lieser might become a hotel. Maybe you could stay there!

  4. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #20 – Trier and the BInoculars Scare | Aussie in France

  5. Pingback: Cycling along the Danube – Ehingen to Ulm | Aussie in France

  6. Pingback: Cycling along the Danube – from its source to Ehingen | Aussie in France

  7. Pingback: Cycling in Germany – Tips & Tricks | Aussie in France

  8. Pingback:  Cycling in Germany #13: Wörlitz Gardens and the beginning of German Neo-classicism | Aussie in France

  9. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #5 – Bad Schandau to Pirna along the Elbe | Aussie in France

  10. Pingback: Cycling along the Danube – Regensburg and the Altmuhle | Aussie in France

  11. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #16 – Celle and Bremen | Aussie in France

  12. Pingback: Cyclng in Germany #15 – Turgermünde, the prettiest village on the Elbe | Aussie in France

  13. Pingback: Cycling in Germany # 3 – Cochem to Zell on the Moselle | Aussie in France

  14. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #2 – Rhine from St Goar to Lorch | Aussie in France

  15. Pingback: Cycling along the Danube – Watch out for trains! | Aussie in France

  16. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #9 – Country Roads around Niederlommatzsch on the Elbe | Aussie in France

  17. Pingback: Last Three Months in Paris | Aussie in France

  18. Pingback: Cycling along the Danube – a Renaissance Festival in Neuburg, Bavaria | Aussie in France

  19. Pingback: Cycling along the Danube – the Weltenburg Narrows | Aussie in France

  20. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #10: Meissen | Aussie in France

  21. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #12 – Luther Country : Wittenberg | Aussie in France

  22. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #4 – Koblenz where the Moselle meets the Rhine | Aussie in France

  23. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #17 – Windmills and Dykes | Aussie in France

  24. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #18 – Painted façades from Hann Münden to Höxter | Aussie in France

  25. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #8 : Dresden Neustadt – Kunsthof Passage, Pfund’s Molkerei, a broom shop &  trompe l’oeil | Aussie in France

  26. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #6 – Bastei Rocks, Honigstein and over the border to Czech Republic | Aussie in France

  27. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #11 – Martin Luther Country: Torgau | Aussie in France

  28. Pingback: Travelling Highlights of 2014 and ideas for 2015 | Aussie in France

  29. Pingback: Cycling on the Danube in Germany – Binzwangen to Mengen including Zwiefalten | Aussie in France

  30. Pingback: Cycling along the Neckar in Germany #3 – Rottweil to Oberndorf | Aussie in France

  31. Pingback: Cycling along the Neckar in Germany #2 – Horb – Rottenburg – Türbingen – Bebenhausen | Aussie in France

  32. Pingback: Cycling on the Romantic Road in Bavaria #2 – Lechbruck to Fussen via Neuschwanstein Castle | Aussie in France

  33. Pingback: Cycling along the Romantic Road in Bavaria #7 – Würzburg | Aussie in France

  34. Pingback: Cycling along the Romantic Road in Bavaria # 4 – Augsburg | Aussie in France

  35. Pingback: Cycling along the Romantic Road in Bavaria #6 – Rothenburg am der Tauber and Tauberbishofsheim | Aussie in France

  36. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #1 – Kobern Gondorf | Aussie in France

  37. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #14 – Shades of Gaudi on the Elbe: Hundertwasser | Aussie in France

  38. Pingback: Cycling on the Romantic Road in Bavaria #3 Peiting to Diessen | Aussie in France

  39. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #7 – Dresden: Accommodation & Car Trouble and Baroque Treasure | Aussie in France

  40. Pingback: Cycling along the Romantic Road in Bavaria #8 – Tauberbishofsheim to Creglingen | Aussie in France

  41. Pingback: Cycling along the Romantic Road in Bavaria #1 – Peiting to Wies | Aussie in France

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

CommentLuv badge