Cycling along the Danube – Regensburg and the Altmuhle

Print pagePDF pageEmail page

The only thing Jean Michel remembers about Regensburg when we went there about 15 years ago is eating sausages and sauerkraut in the oldest roast sausage restaurant in Germany on the banks of the Danube! He wants to go there again. I vaguely remember the restaurant episode but have no other images in my head.

The Walhalla overlooking the Danube

The Walhalla overlooking the Danube

On the way, we drive past the Walhalla, which we both remember, because we passed it several times on our previous trip. Built at the instigation of King Ludwig I of Bavaria between 1830 and 1847 overlooking the Danube, it is a hall of fame for distinguished people in German history.

Bismarckplatz market in Regensburg

Bismarckplatz market in Regensburg

We arrive in Regensburg late morning and park in Bismarckplatz where there is a fresh food market. We buy cherries, raspberries (himbeeren) and cheese and leave them in the car. Unfortunately no one is selling wine.

Haidplatz in Regensburg

Haidplatz in Regensburg

Following the Michelin Guide’s itinerary, we visit the town, as we no doubt did the first time. Neither of us remembers a single thing! What, you may wonder, is the point of travelling if you have forgotten it all fifteen years later. Yet we loved that trip and remember other parts of it, thank goodness so maybe not all is wasted …

The outside eating area of the Wurstkurchl

The outside eating area of the Wurstkurchl

Our visit culminates in the famous restaurant, Historische Wurstkuchl, built in the 12th century to feed the local dockers and builders. Despite the fact that it’s 1.30 pm, the outside tables are crowded so Jean Michel suggests we eat inside.

Inside the Wurstkurchl with its enormous pillars

Inside the Wurstkuchl with its enormous pillars*

The menu is in German so with the help of my less than usefu dictionary on my l iPhone, we decide we’ll have the basic dish of six little sausages with sauerkraut and another dish which appears to include salad. The waiter, who speaks only very basic English, is rather dubious about our choice, but he checks we want everything at the same time and off he goes.

Double rations!

Double rations!

When four plates arrive, two with little sausages and two with two large sausages and a large amount of potato salad with a couple of leaves of lamb’s lettuce on top, I understand his reticence! We laugh and eat them anyway. We’ll just have vegetables and fruit for dinner.

The Altmuhle between Essing and Kelheim

The Altmuhle between Essing and Kelheim

It’s 2.30 by the time we leave to cycle along a tributary of the Danube, the Altmuhle. I doze in the car after the 25 cl glass of reisling and all that food. Between Kelheim, where it meets the Danube, and Dietfurt, the bed of the Altmuhle was straightened and incorporated into a canal connecting the Main and the Danube.

The wooden bridge at Essing

The wooden bridge at Essing

It’s a favourite with local Germans and tourists, so we aren’t the only ones on the bike path. We stop off at the pretty little village of Essing to see the wooden bridge and have a coffee at Gasthof Schneider, which is famous for its local beer.

Riedenburg on the Altmuhle

Riedenburg on the Altmuhle

We then push on to Riedenburg, which offers a plunging view of the Danube, after unnecessarily riding up a long hill due to poor signage again. Finding our way back is much easier.

Prunn overlooking the Altmuhle

Prunn overlooking the Altmuhle

We stop at least six times before Jean Michel takes what he considers is the definitive photo of Prunn castle we can see high up on a hill.

The little church at Essing reflected in the water

The little church at Essing reflected in the water

The path takes us past the bridge on the opposite side of the village of Essing and the six o’clock light gives a perfect reflection of the little church in the water. Once again, we marvel at how many different experiences our cycling trip along the Danube has to offer.

OTHER POSTS ABOUT CYCLING IN GERMANY

Cycling in Germany – Tips & Tricks
Cycling in Germany #1 – Kobern-Gondorf on the Moselle
Cycling in Germany #2 – Rhine from Saint Goar to Lorch
Cycling in Germany #3 – Cochem to Zell on the Moselle
Cycling in Germany #4 – Koblenz where the Moselle meets the Rhine
Cycling in Germany #5 – Bad Schaugen to Pirna along the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #6 – Bastei Rocks, Honigen and over the border to Czech Republic 
Cycling in Germany #7 – Dresden: accommodation & car trouble and Baroque Treasure  
Cycling in Germany #8 – Dresden Neustadt: Kunsthof Passage, Pfund’s Molkerei, a broom shop & trompe l’oeil
Cycling in Germany #9 – Country roads around Niderlommatzsch on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #10 – Meissen on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #11 – Martin Luther Country: Torgau on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #12 – Martin Luther Country: Wittenberg on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #13 – Wörlitz Gardens and the beginning of neo-classicism in Germany
Cycling in Germany #14 – Shades of Gaudi on the Elbe: Hundertwasser
Cycling in Germany – Turgermünde, the prettiest village on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #16 – Celle & Bremen
Cycling in Germany #17 – Windmills & Dykes
Cycling in Germany #18 – Painted façades from Hann. Münden to Höxter
Cycling in Germany #19 – Bernkastel on the Moselle: a hidden treasure
Cycling in Germany #20 – Trier & the Binoculars Scare
 
Cycling along the Danube – A Renaissance festival in Neuburg, Bavaria
Cycling along the Danube – Watch out for trains!
Cycling along the Danube – Regensburg & Altmuhle
Cycling along the Danube –  The Weltenburg Narrows
Cycling along the Danube – from its source to Ehingen
Cycling along the Danube – Ehingen to Ulm
Cycling along the Danube – Singmarigen to Beuron
Cycling along the Danube – Binzwangen to Mengen including  Zwiefalten
Eurovelo 6 – Cycling around Lake Constance
Eurovelo 6 – Moos to Stein am Rhein and Steckborn on Lake Constance
Heading home to France after a month’s cycling holiday
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...
This entry was posted in Cycling, Germany, Restaurants, Sightseeing and tagged , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

40 Responses to Cycling along the Danube – Regensburg and the Altmuhle

  1. Susan Walter says:

    Wow! You cycled after all that food!! That’s proper stamina.

    • Rosemary Kneipp says:

      It’s the wine that’s worse I reckon. Today was a fast day and we cycled 54 kilometers – much easier!

  2. Denise Grassart says:

    Lovely pics, and looks like a very enjoyable trip. But you must be tired of sausages. 😉

  3. Pingback: Cycling along the Danube – a Renaissance Festival in Neuburg, Bavaria | Aussie in France

  4. Pingback: Monday’s Travel Photos – Regensburg, Germany | Aussie in France

  5. Pingback: Cycling in Germany – Tips & Tricks | Aussie in France

  6. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #18 – Painted façades from Hann Münden to Höxter | Aussie in France

  7. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #6 – Bastei Rocks, Honigstein and over the border to Czech Republic | Aussie in France

  8. Pingback: Cycling along the Danube – the Weltenburg Narrows | Aussie in France

  9. Pingback: Cycling in Germany # 3 – Cochem to Zell on the Moselle | Aussie in France

  10. Pingback: Cycling along the Danube – Ehingen to Ulm | Aussie in France

  11. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #17 – Windmills and Dykes | Aussie in France

  12. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #7 – Dresden: Accommodation & Car Trouble and Baroque Treasure | Aussie in France

  13. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #2 – Rhine from St Goar to Lorch | Aussie in France

  14. Pingback: Cycling on the Danube in Germany – Binzwangen to Mengen including Zwiefalten | Aussie in France

  15. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #9 – Country Roads around Niederlommatzsch on the Elbe | Aussie in France

  16. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #14 – Shades of Gaudi on the Elbe: Hundertwasser | Aussie in France

  17. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #10: Meissen | Aussie in France

  18. Pingback: Cyclng in Germany #15 – Turgermünde, the prettiest village on the Elbe | Aussie in France

  19. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #12 – Luther Country : Wittenberg | Aussie in France

  20. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #1 – Kobern Gondorf | Aussie in France

  21. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #4 – Koblenz where the Moselle meets the Rhine | Aussie in France

  22. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #19 – Bernkastel on the Moselle – a hidden treasure | Aussie in France

  23. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #8 : Dresden Neustadt – Kunsthof Passage, Pfund’s Molkerei, a broom shop &  trompe l’oeil | Aussie in France

  24. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #11 – Martin Luther Country: Torgau | Aussie in France

  25. Lovely photos Rosemary! Regensburg is on my wishlist for our forthcoming trip to Munich and Bavaria it looks very pretty and interesting 🙂 We won’t be cycling however – you’ve covered a lot of ground in your German cycling expeditions! 🙂
    Rosemary Thomas recently posted…Tales From Innsbruck AlpenzooMy Profile

  26. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #16 – Celle and Bremen | Aussie in France

  27. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #20 – Trier and the Binoculars Scare | Aussie in France

  28. Pingback:  Cycling in Germany #13: Wörlitz Gardens and the beginning of German Neo-classicism | Aussie in France

  29. Pingback: Cycling along the Danube – Watch out for trains! | Aussie in France

  30. Pingback: Cycling along the Neckar in Germany #3 – Rottweil to Oberndorf | Aussie in France

  31. Pingback: Cycling along the Romantic Road in Bavaria # 4 – Augsburg | Aussie in France

  32. Pingback: Cycling along the Romantic Road in Bavaria #6 – Rothenburg am der Tauber and Tauberbishofsheim | Aussie in France

  33. Pingback: Cycling along the Romantic Road in Bavaria 5#– Nordlingen, Wallerstein, Dinkelsbühl and Feuchtwangen | Aussie in France

  34. Pingback: Cycling on the Romantic Road in Bavaria #3 Peiting to Diessen | Aussie in France

  35. Pingback: Cycling in Germany #5 – Bad Schandau to Pirna along the Elbe | Aussie in France

  36. Pingback: Cycling Along the Neckar in Germany – #1 – Ludwigsburg | Aussie in France

  37. Pingback: Cycling along the Romantic Road in Bavaria #7 – Würzburg | Aussie in France

  38. Pingback: Cycling on the Romantic Road in Bavaria #2 – Lechbruck to Fussen via Neuschwanstein Castle | Aussie in France

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

CommentLuv badge