Category Archives: Cycling

Art, Cycling, French customs, Uncategorized, Weekly Blogger Round-Up

Weekly Blogger Round-Up: French Lingerie – Cycling in France – Louis XIV’s portrait in Chenonceau

March 11, 2014 Rosemary Kneipp 2 Comments

This week’s blogger round-up starts with Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris, who takes us behind the scenes of French lingerie, Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike shares her favourite cycling itineraries in France while Susan from Days on the Claise presents a portrait of Louis XIV, “The King of Bling” by Hyacinthe Rigaud in Chenonceau Castle. Enjoy!

“Behind the Seams of French Lingerie” with Paris Lingerie Tours

by Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris, an American by birth, Swiss by marriage, resident of Paris with a Navigo Pass for the metro that she feels compelled to use

Let’s start with a quick survey. Raise your hand if you think that lingerie is a rather silly subject, something that doesn’t merit your attention. Even though I’m ashamed to admit it, that’s exactly how I felt before the start of Kate Kemp-Griffin’s highly informative “Behind the Seams of French Lingerie” tour yesterday morning. When Kate, The Lingerie Journal’s Associate Editor for France, asked why we had signed up for the two-hour tour, I quickly denied any personal interest in the subject by explaining that I was planning to write a blog post about lingerie. It was a misguided attempt to distance myself from what I incorrectly considered to be a frivolous topic. Read more.

Bicycling in France 2014: Itineraries to Consider

by Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history.

I’ve had a really hard time narrowing down my favorite itineraries in France this year. So many regions of France are improving existing bicycle paths and building new ones and great choices are springing up across the country. This makes it really tough to narrow down possible choices to a manageable few. At this rate, I could miss the whole summer bicycling season, mired in route research and conversations with local tourism officials! It’s time to get the list out! I’ve made a big pot of coffee, and am ready to make some decisions. With the list complete, I can settle down to providing you with details on each of the itineraries, and why each of them would be a perfect choice for an upcoming bicycle trip to France. Each choice will be featured in an upcoming post including: top ten reasons to choose the itinerary, bicycle rental options, and best resources for trip planning. Read more.

The King of Bling

by Susan from Days on the Claise, an Australian living in the south of the Loire Valley, writing about restoring an old house and the area and its history and running Loire Valley Time Travel.

It doesn’t take much knowledge of history to guess correctly that this is a portrait of Louis XIV. The more is more frame gives it away even if you don’t recognise the man. It hangs in one of the salons at the chateau of Chenonceau and was originally a gift from Louis to his uncle Césare de Vendôme, once owner of the chateau. Like the rest of the objects at Chenonceau, it hasn’t always been here, but has been acquired by the current owners because of its significance to the chateau.The portrait is by Hyacinthe Rigaud, Louis’ court portraitist and painted about 1700. Like any of Rigaud’s portraits it is a magical mixture of completely accurate character representation and ideal ego boosting likeness. I don’t know how he did it. Couple that with his superb technique with luxury textiles, and any portrait by Rigaud is worth looking at, drooling at the silks and velvets and musing about what the artist thought of the sitter. However, I’d be willing to bet most people hardly give the portrait itself a second glance. It is totally overshadowed by the astonishing carved gilt frame, which was created for the painting. Read more. Read more.

Cycling, Loire Valley, Loire Valley châteaux, Uncategorized

Back in the Saddle

March 10, 2014 Rosemary Kneipp 13 Comments

The weather is absolutely wonderful not only in the Loire but right across France and most of Europe so we’re back on our bikes after a six-month break. I suggest we find choose a nice flat bike path out in the open as a warm up. It’s 2.30 pm and an unbelievable 19°C which must be practically a record for 8th March.

Ready to go with the bikes on the back of the car

So we pump up the tyres (well, Jean-Michel does), check the paniers and handlebar bags (that’s my job) and put the bikes on the back of the car. We drive to our preferred starting point along the Loire between Blois and Saint Dyé on the Route Historique de la Vallée des Rois, just opposite the turn-off to Saint Claude de Diray.

It feels great to be back in the saddle! Château de Menars stands out clearly on the opposite bank and we discover a new sign post opposite Montlivaut showing the flood levels of the Loire. In 1856, it reached 3.4 metres, in 1866, 3.2 metres and in 1846, 2,6 metres.

We soon arrive in Saint Dyé where a flock of swans is attracting attention on the river bank. Further on, we see lots of different trees in blossom. On the path towards Muides, we see the most delightful tree house.

La potion muidoise which is a reference to the druid's magic potion in Astérix — La potion muidoise which is a reference to the druid’s magic potion in Astérix

I’ve scheduled a stop at La Potion Muidoise so are somewhat disappointed to discover it’s closed in the afternoon at the moment. I can’t imagine why you’d open a bar in the morning only, particularly on the finest Saturday we’ve had in months. But it’s school holidays, I guess.

This type of well is typical of the region

We take a new route back to the river and see the most picturesque little well covered in wild flowers. I can’t wait to see it in the summer when the hydragea is in bloom.

Riverside bench on the cycle path between Saint Dyé and Muides

We eat our biscuits on a bench overlooking the Loire. Next time I’ll have to remember to pack a thermos with tea!

By the time we get back to the car, we have ridden 25 kilometers and I am wishing it hadn‘t been quite so flat!

It’s next day and we’re planning another ride. The temperate is expected to reach 21°C. I’ve learnt my lesson and have suggested a few small hills so we head for Monthou-sur-Bièvre with its unusual cemetary. The cycle route has a lot of little villages along the way which should mean plenty of flowering trees and shrubs. I wince with pain as I ease myself into the saddle.

Saint Pierre d'Ourchamps — Saint Pierre d’Ourchamps

The little church in Ourchamps is open so we go inside and are amused to see a document dated 1882 saying that the chairman of the church council of St Pierre expressly forbids the sexton from letting any one other than the church employees ring the bells. It makes you wonder what had been going on.

As we go past a small wood of pine trees Jean Michel points out “tents” made by the larvae of the pine processionary moth which is an economic pest. The urticating hairs of the caterpillar larvae cause harmful reactions in humans and other mammals (I looked that up!). I’ve never even heard of them before!

This time I have scheduled a stop in the little town of Fougères-sur-Bièvre with its well-preserved 15th century castle and I’m hoping there’s a café open because I have forgotten to replenish the biscuit supply. You guessed – it’s closed for the afternoon, although it was obviously open at lunchtime, and I don’t have the promised thermos of tea either.

Château de Fougères built in the 15th century.

After 30 kilometres, we arrive back at our starting point and I’m rather glad that next day is Monday and the only seat I’ll have to sit in is my ultra-comfortable desk chair! I’m still happy to have had such wonderful weather to cycle in. In a couple of days’ time, I should be ready to get back in the saddle.

Cycling, France, French customs, Travelling, Wednesday's Blogger Round-up

Wednesday’s Blogger Round-Up: Day trip to Reims – Dealing with train stations on a bike – Christmas in France in 2013

November 19, 2013 Rosemary Kneipp 2 Comments

Three entirely different subjects this week. Ever pratical Jo Karnaghan from Frugal First Class Travel takes us on a day trip to Reims which is not only famous for its champagne; Maggie La Coste from Experience France by Bike gives tips on how to take the train with a bike and panniers; while Janine from The Good Life France has compiled a very interesting and useful guide to Christmas in France in 2013 that you can download. Enjoy!

How to make a day trip to Reims

by Jo Karnaghan from Frugal First Class Travel, an Australian who loves to travel – especially in Europe – and who has gradually learned how to have a First Class trip on an economy budget, without missing out on anything!

Reims (pronouned “rance” as in France) is an easy and convenient day trip from Paris, being only 45 minutes away by TGV. What most visitors will find surprising is that Reims is about more than champagne. Here’s my take on a great way to do a day trip to this pretty and friendly city, that includes more than just champagne!

Arriving in Reims

Reims is only 45minutes by TGV from Gare de l’Est in Paris. Make sure you book a TGV rather than a stopping all stations train that will take you 2hours. Read more

Navigating train stations in France with bicycle panniers

by Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history.

Nothing can ruin a day for a bicyclist more than having to maneuver stairs at a rail station! Sometimes, no matter how well you plan a trip, you need to take a train to connect to another cycling itinerary, to avoid a bad part of a route or oftentimes to return a rental bike. Regardless of the reason, managing stairs when your bike is loaded down with all your gear is tough. I’ll never forget the first time we arrived at a train station, bought our tickets and then patiently waited for our track announcement. Of course the track was announced literally as the train was coming into the station and getting to it required going down and then up two very long sets of stairs! Read more

Christmas in France in 2013

by Janine from The Good Life France, an independent on-line magazine about France and all things French, covering all aspects of daily life including healthcare, finance, utilities, education, property and a whole lot more

Christmas in France 2013 – a free guide to the best Christmas markets in Paris, Alsace, for day trips, near Calais… things to do and where to see the best window displays and beautiful illuminations in Paris, the City of Light. Lots of French festive facts… and top recipes from celebrity chefs Michel Roux Jr, Raymond Blanc and Rachel Khoo.

From us to you at Christmas… Christmas in France 2013 the book…

To download your free Christmas in France 2013 guide click on this link or right click “save link as” Christmas in France 2013. Read more

Austria, Cycling, Paris, Travelling

A safe travel guide for solo woman travellers – Scenery, sunshine and saddle bags on the Austrian Lakes – Paris-Orly train transfer tips

September 3, 2013 Rosemary Kneipp 6 Comments

Another all-Australian bloggers round-up this Wednesday, with advice from the ever-practical Jo Karnaghan from Frugal First Class Travel on safe travel for solo women travellers; a report from Carolyn from Holidays to Europe on her recent cycling tour in a different part of Austria from us; and tips on transferring from Orly airport to various train stations in Paris from A House in France, written by an Aussie couple living in the south of France. Enjoy!

Travelling safely – A guide for solo woman travellers

by Jo Karnaghan from Frugal First Class Travel, an Australian who loves to travel – especially in Europe – and who has gradually learned how to have a First Class trip on an economy budget, without missing out on anything!

One of my lovely readers, Linda, recently contacted me about hotels in Paris that would be safe for her as a solo traveller. Now, most of the time I travel in Europe I also travel alone. It therefore got me thinking about the things I do to make sure I keep myself safe when I’m travelling solo. Travelling safely is an important travel skill to master, so here are my top tips for safe and confident solo travel:

1. Pack light

I know, I say this all the time, but packing light is travelling safe. If you pack lightly you have less stuff to worry about. On the train, it is easier to keep track of your luggage. Read more

Scenery, sunshine and saddle bags: My Austrian Lakes cycling tour

by Carolyn from Holidays to Europe, an Australian based business passionate about sharing their European travel expertise and helping travellers to experience the holiday in Europe they have always dreamed of

There are some countries that hold a special place in a traveller’s heart and to me, Austria is one of those places. So what better way to get a closer look at a part of Austria I hadn’t visited before than on a cycling tour? I spent nine fantastic days in July doing just that, discovering some wonderful scenery and an appreciation for ‘slow travel’ along the way.

After comparing a few different itineraries offered by various companies I selected the 9 day Austrian Lakes Hike and Bike tour sold through UTracks in Australia. One of the big sellers for me was the fact that this tour spends two nights at Hallstatt, a town I had long wanted to visit. As the itinerary featured both walking days and cycling days, it also gave me the opportunity to have a ‘rest’ day on the walking days should I decide to. Read more

Paris-Orly train transfer tips

by A House in France – 2 Aussies living part-time in France who share their experiences

We had always flown in and out of Paris from Charles de Gaulle (CDG) airport until recently.

Our regional train down to our house in central France departs from Gare d’Austerlitz, and on one of our many jaunts through that train station we noticed that there were signs indicating the way to catch a train to Orly airport.

So when we found some cheap flights departing from Orly we thought it would be a good chance to check it out and compare it with the ease of getting to and from CDG. Read more

Cycling, Family, Restaurants

A Therapeutic Ride along the Marne

September 2, 2013 Rosemary Kneipp 10 Comments

It’s Black Cat’s last day in Paris before she goes to New York to look for a job. I’m delighted for her, of course, because she’s following her dream, just as I did 38 years ago, but I am very sad to see her go. We’ve decided not to say goodbye at the airport so we part ways in the street. I go back upstairs and try to work. When Jean Michel phones at five to say he’s finished for the day, I suggest we go cycling along the Marne.

The cycle path from Pont de Bry to the old chocolate factory in Champs sur Marne remains our favourite ride and is filled with happy memories of when we lived in Fontenay sous Bois and could easily go there at the end of the day.

And we love stopping off on the way back for a barbecued côte de boeuf at La Pergola.

As it’s the last Friday in August, there is very little traffic so we only take about three-quarters of an hour to get there. We’ve already phoned La Pergola to check they’re open and make sure our côte de boeuf will be ready when we arrive after cycling for an hour along the Marne. The owner recognises knows us as le couple en vélo even if we haven’t been there since last summer.

As soon as we get on our bikes, I start feeling better. It’s a lovely day and the Marne is full of swans. We ride down to the chocolate factory and back to La Pergola. Our favourite table in the garden is waiting for us.

The côte de bœuf arrives and it’s enormous. Since we began intermittent fasting in June , our appetite has diminished somewhat. We manage to finish it anyway particularly as the meat is delicious. Jean Michel even orders tarte tatin for dessert! Fortunately it doesn’t have any cream with it.

It’s completely dark by the time we finish and we still have a 20-minute ride back to the car so we don our headlights and windcheaters and off we go. On the way, we pass the other, more recently opened La Pergola with its bright neon lights. I think it’s an eyesore.

Next morning we’re not even remotely hungry so decide to have a fast day. Today is the first day of Black Cat’s new life! Good luck!

La Pergola, 87, promenade Hermann Régnier, 93460 Gournay Sur Marne, 01 43 05 36 56

Architecture, Cycling, Hungary, Travel photos

Monday’s Travel Photos – Szentendre, Hungary

August 25, 2013 Rosemary Kneipp Leave a comment

Szentendre, pronounced San-ten-dray, is a charming little town on the Danube about twenty kilometers north of Budapest, very popular in summer it seems as it is easy to get there by boat, bus, train or bike, but only crowded between about 10 am and 6 pm. After that, you can wander down the main street and only meet the locals. And we had one of our best dining experiences this summer at Muvesz in the Main Square. The architecture is mainly 18th century baroque and there are no fewer than nine churches!

Blagovestenska Greek Orthodox Church and the Baroque cross erected in 1763 to celebrate the fact that the plague bypassed the town

We often saw these tiled roofs with their unusual dormer window

A local shop where the Hungarian owner was very helpful and friendly despite our lack of a common language

Cycling through the town after 6 pm — Blagovestenska Greek Orthodox Church

Cycling past the colourful merchant houses after 6 pm

The waterfront at Szentendre after the 2013 floods

Closerie Falaiseau, Cycling, Flowers & gardens, Loire Valley, Loire Valley châteaux, Photography

Last of Summer in Blois and Stendal

August 20, 2013 Rosemary Kneipp 3 Comments

Today was our last day of summer in Blois. And, despite the sun, there was a slight chill in the air. We know that the next time we go there, in mid-September, autumn will be on its way. We had hoped that waiting until Monday night to go back to Paris after the Assumption weekend would mean less traffic, but we’re not so sure.

Before we left the house this morning, we chatted with our current guests at Closerie Falaiseau, Karin and Lothar from Stendal in Germany which is a mere 2,200 kilometers from Blois. They drove 1500 K the first day and 700 K the second , which sounds very Australian, doesn’t it? Karin explained that their home town of Stendal has a French connection. The well-known French author, Henri Beyle, author of Le Rouge et le Noir and La Chartreuse de Parme (1783 to 1842), is believed to have chosen the pseudonym of Stendal in hommage to the German writer Winckelmann from the town of Stendal.

Blois Cathedral seen from the esplanade along the river

The first thing on the programme for the day was a photo shoot in Blois as we wanted to take enough photos for Blois Daily Photo to last until we come back again. I just took my iPhone but Jean Michel took his Canon 1DS 24/36 which has a special lens that takes photos of buildings without distorting them, unlike mine where I have to stand as far back as I can.

A bench casting shadows in Jardin de l'Evêché in Blois — A bench casting shadows in Jardin de l’Evêché in Blois

We parked along the Loire on the Mail which is what they called the Esplanade here and wandered up the hill to the Jardin de l’Evêché (Bishop’s gardens) behind the Cathedral, feeling very much on holidays. I love the shadows cast by the morning light.

Our last port of call was the Saint Jacques fountain which I had discovered on a previous occasion. It’s just next to the Restaurant de la Fontaine Saint Jacques. I asked the waiter if it would be alright if we momentarily took down the Sangria sign and he very kindly removed it until we’d finished our photos.

My favourite photo in the Blois photo competition

Before leaving Blois, we checked out this year’s amateur photo competition on the banks of the Loire. Next year, we hope we’ll be able to enter it. This year’s theme was “L’insolite” – the unexpected. My favourite photo was an old gabarre flat-bottomed fishing boat by Thierry Thomas.

And, coincidentally, what should be parked just next to us on the Mail? This very snazzy rouge et noire Smart Car!

A gabarre flat-bottomed boat ready to take tourists on the Loire at Château de Chaumont

After a late lunch, we packed the car and drove to Chaumont to try out a new cycling itinerary, upriver a short distance, then down to Valliers les Grandes, across to Souvigny en Touraine, up to Mosnes, then along the river again to Rilly sur Loire and back to Chaumont.

A lavoir with an interesting fountain head in Valliers les Grandes

It turned out to have lots of hills, especially quite a steep one at the beginning. We saw two lavoirs, four churches and several historical homes and lots of sunflower fields which in French are called tournesol . I always thought they turned in the direction of the sun. However, these were facing east and not west. Perhaps someone has an explanation.

I had just remarked that we hadn’t seen any hot air balloons – you can usually see a half a dozen in the sky at once late afternoon and early morning – when we saw one just ahead of us and quite low down, travelling very quickly towards Chaumont and no doubt on to Chenonceau.

A hot air balloon on the bike path near Château de Chaumont

The original 25 kilometers somehow turned into 35 because we changed the starting point and took a wrong turning at one stage and it was 8.30 by the time we got back to the Little House for our last barbecue of the season. And now we’re sadly on our way back to Paris and work.

Cycling, Loire Valley, Wine

French wine in cans – what is this?

August 15, 2013 Rosemary Kneipp 6 Comments

We’ve just cycled from Château de Chaumont to Candé sur Beuvron, a lovely little path through shady woods along the Beuvron River on the Loire à Vélo circuit.

Beuvron River from the cycle path between Chaumont and Candé

We reach the village and discover that renovations on the pedestrian bridge are finished and that it’s decorated with enormous brightly coloured flower pots.

Giant flower pot on the pedestrian bridge at Candé sur Beuvron

We’ve already been here and have only found one bar open. Another cycling couple (French) are already having a beer. Jean Michel goes inside to ask for a Coca Light (Diet Coke) and comes back to say that there only have normal Coke.

We’re in a wine-growing region and Candé is in the AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) area of Cheverny so I say, “Un verre de vin local“. The lady comes out with a CAN OF WINE. I look at it askance. Winestar, it says.

“You can look like that”, she says, “it’s excellent wine”. Yeah, in a can … It isn’t even local wine but corbières from the south of France. I have never heard of WHITE corbières, what’s more.

Canned wines - photo taken from WineStar website — Canned wines – photo taken from WineStar website

The beer-drinking man at the other table says, “It’s a French invention. It’s just come out. Very popular.” “Eu, they’ve had it in Australia for years”, I reply.

We taste the wine which is drinkable, but that’s about all. The lady returns, “So, what do you think?”. I don’t trust myself to reply but Jean Michel says “c’est buvable mais ce n’est pas un vin local.” “C’est un vin excellent“, she says huffily and walks off. An excellent wine indeed! “Caractérielle“, says Jean Michel when she’s out of earshot. “Elle est caractérielle cette femme” which roughly means that she has personality problems.

We finish our little glasses and cycle back to Chaumont, just in time to see a half a dozen air balloons taking off from the other side of the Loire.

I check out Winestar on the Internet when I get home. You guessed it, Winestar* is a wholly-owned subsidiary of WineStar Pty Ltd. based in Melbourne!

*I’ve since learnt that Winestar in France has nothing to do with WineStar in Melbourne, which is strange considering intellectual property law.

Austria, Cycling, Germany, Sightseeing

Post-Holiday Depression and Miscellaneous Holiday Photos

July 29, 2013 Rosemary Kneipp 10 Comments

I’m not really sure how much sympathy I’ll get on this one – obviously the best way to avoid post-holiday depression is not to go on holidays, particularly month-long ones.

You can see how cold the wine is! Typical German 20 cl glass.

It’s amazing how quickly you get used to not working and being stress-free. No boring mundane activities either.

A quartet fountain in Germany at the source of the Danube — A quintet fountain in Germany at the source of the Danube

A typical day during our cycling holiday was to get up around 8.30, get dressed, straighten the hotel room (after we discovered the cleaners usually came during breakfast) and go to the breakfast room. We would then put what we needed for the day in our sac de liaison and go out/down to the car. Jean Michel would take the bikes off the rack (unless we drove to our starting point first) while I would get the bags and paniers ready. Then we put on sunscreen plus insect screen for me and donned our caps.

Watch out for snakes on the bike path, particularly this one. I wasn't game to put my feet down. — Watch out for snakes on the bike path, particularly this one. I wasn’t game to put my feet down.

After cycling about half the day’s distance, we’d stop somewhere for lunch, then cycle the remaining distance, visiting various places along the way and picking up something for dinner towards the end of the journey. Sometimes we got back to the hotel around 5, but it was usually 7 or 8, because we wanted to make the most of the long twilight.

Reserved parking for mothers with small children in a supermarket car park

We then had an apéritif (except on fast days), followed by a light dinner in our room or on the balcony if we had one. After that, Jean Michel would write up the travel diary while I answered emails and wrote a blog post. We eventually got to bed around eleven or twelve, then read for a while. We usually fell asleep pretty quickly.

Now, I can’t say there is really a typical day at home because I freelance and weekends and weekdays are different as well. Jean Michel usually gets up earlier than I do to go to work so we don’t have breakfast together during the week so I wake up when I’m ready.

A flood gate to be used when the Danube is in spate in Austria

I prefer to work as much as I can in the mornings though because that is when I am the most efficient, but other things often get in the way. Also with the unusually hot weather we’ve been having so I would much rather stay in my air-conditioned office in the afternoon.

A traditional clothes shop in Austria with a traditional sales assistant

I came home to two very boring translations – one about a patent for an eye dropper that’s designed to use up the last drops in the bottle (I thought they purposely made droppers so you’d waste half the contents to tell you the truth) and another, much longer one, consisting of often cryptic messages in a software program for a company that sells industrial gas cylinders.

My work is not usually THAT boring but my most interesting clients all seem to be on holidays now (state-of-the-art bridges, cosmetics, contracts, etc.). Fortunately I’ve had some light relief for the last couple of days translating IT security recommendations. At least there are real sentences! But now I have to go back to the messages.

Vertical rubbish bins in Linz in Austria

We went down to Blois for the weekend so that we could do something about the jungle that had developed during our 7-week absence. It’s amazing how quickly the vegetation takes over. Virginia creeper was completely covering the number of the house, which isn’t very useful for the guests renting Closerie Falaiseau.

Apart from spending an hour cycling to and from the mushroom wood to no avail, and a couple of hours with our friends and neighbours on Saturday, the two days were completely taken up with gardening. On the Saturday evening, our lovely young German guests invited us to a most enjoyable barbecue!

Special bike locks at Melk Abbey in Austria

So today I’m feeling very depressed, particularly since Leonardo’s now gone to Berlin to work for a few months and I have to get back to the software messages. Looking at the photos has made me even more nostalgic. I selected some I thought were typical.

Accommodation, Austria, Cycling, Restaurants, Sightseeing

Cycling along the Danube – Passau to Linz: the S-bend

July 18, 2013 Rosemary Kneipp 11 Comments

We’re staying at Gasthof Dexler in Niederranna on the Danube close to the S-bend between Linz in Austria and Passau in Germany so are able to start directly from our hotel. It turns out to be one of the highlights of our trip.

The bike path in front of Gasthof Dexler

The sky is blue and it’s 22°C when we leave at 9.30 after saying goodbye to the Aussie cyclists. We come to the end of our shady cycle path at Au and take a little ferry across to Schlogen.

We cycle towards the second bend at Inzoll and take a rest stop at Gasthof Steindl and watch the river traffic.

Coffee break on the Danube at Inzoll — Coffee break on the Danube at Gasthof Steindl in Inzell

We continue on until we are opposite Untermühl. It’s wonderfully quiet and peaceful with no cars. However, by now I’m severely bitten by mosquitos because I’ve stupidly forgotten to use spray and although the little waterfalls along the way might be cute they’re a great breeding ground.

A little waterwall along the bike path between Inzell and Obermühl

We locate the ferry opposite Untermühl, but there is no sign of a ferryman so I go to a nearby gasthof where I am told in German with appropriate handsigns that I have to press the button on the intercom near the ferry.

The intercom at the second ferry crossing opposite Untermühl

Fortunately a young German couple who speak English have arrived by then and are able to interpret the message that the ferryman will be there in 10 minutes. He soon turns up on his little tractor, jumps into the ferry and takes us across while Jean Michel studies the next part of the trip.

Studying up the route on the second ferry

From Untermühl, we cycle back to Obermühl crossing a couple of rivers on the way and have the most delicious wiener schnitzel and a very cold glass of riesling on a shady terrace overlooking the Danube. By the time we get there, it’s 2.45. I just love the way they serve meals all day in Germany and Austria!

Lunch in the shade with a view of the Danube

With renewed courage, we continue on to Steinbruch where we are to take another ferry which is already halfway across the Danube.

An Austrian couple waiting to go in the other direction (Aschach) tells us in English to call the ferryman on the intercom so he can come back and get us. I ask the man if he would mind doing it for us as I am afraid of not being understood.

This time, the ferry is bigger and our trip back up the river takes about 20 minutes – a little mini-cruise in the middle of the Danube.

From our ferry on the Danube — Looking back towards Au

We get out at Au and cycle back to our hotel, a total of 59 kilometers and a cycling time of 3 ½ hours. My knees are feeling a little wobbly!

Map taken from our travel diary showing Niederramma on the left where we began and Untermuhl where we began the return journey — Map taken from our travel diary showing Niederranna on the left where we began and Untermuhl where we began the return journey

It’s only 4.30 so Jean Michel suggests we go up to a blick (lookout) near Schlogen and get a bird’s eye view of the loop we have just ridden. We park the car and walk through the forest for about a quart of an hour before we reach the blick. The view is absolutely stunning.

When we get back to the car the sky is threatening and we can only spend a few minutes on the terrace before the rain starts. I have the brilliant idea of taking the table and chairs into the room so we enjoy our apéritif watching the rain and reminiscing over our truly exceptional day.

Aussie in France

Category Archives: Cycling

Weekly Blogger Round-Up: French Lingerie – Cycling in France – Louis XIV’s portrait in Chenonceau

“Behind the Seams of French Lingerie” with Paris Lingerie Tours

by Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris, an American by birth, Swiss by marriage, resident of Paris with a Navigo Pass for the metro that she feels compelled to use

Bicycling in France 2014: Itineraries to Consider

by Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history.

The King of Bling

by Susan from Days on the Claise, an Australian living in the south of the Loire Valley, writing about restoring an old house and the area and its history and running Loire Valley Time Travel.

Back in the Saddle

Wednesday’s Blogger Round-Up: Day trip to Reims – Dealing with train stations on a bike – Christmas in France in 2013

How to make a day trip to Reims

by Jo Karnaghan from Frugal First Class Travel, an Australian who loves to travel – especially in Europe – and who has gradually learned how to have a First Class trip on an economy budget, without missing out on anything!

Arriving in Reims

Navigating train stations in France with bicycle panniers

by Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history.

Christmas in France in 2013

by Janine from The Good Life France, an independent on-line magazine about France and all things French, covering all aspects of daily life including healthcare, finance, utilities, education, property and a whole lot more

A safe travel guide for solo woman travellers – Scenery, sunshine and saddle bags on the Austrian Lakes – Paris-Orly train transfer tips

Travelling safely – A guide for solo woman travellers

by Jo Karnaghan from Frugal First Class Travel, an Australian who loves to travel – especially in Europe – and who has gradually learned how to have a First Class trip on an economy budget, without missing out on anything!

1. Pack light

Scenery, sunshine and saddle bags: My Austrian Lakes cycling tour

by Carolyn from Holidays to Europe, an Australian based business passionate about sharing their European travel expertise and helping travellers to experience the holiday in Europe they have always dreamed of

Paris-Orly train transfer tips

by A House in France – 2 Aussies living part-time in France who share their experiences

A Therapeutic Ride along the Marne

Monday’s Travel Photos – Szentendre, Hungary

Last of Summer in Blois and Stendal

French wine in cans – what is this?

Post-Holiday Depression and Miscellaneous Holiday Photos

Cycling along the Danube – Passau to Linz: the S-bend

from the Tropics to the City of Light