Cycling along the Danube – Ehingen to Ulm

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It’s funny how you can go to the same place twice and have a totally different experience each time. When we saw Ulm the first time, it didn’t seem at all attractive.  Its famous Minster might be the tallest church in the world but it was dark and ugly in my books, particularly after all the beautiful rococco churches we’ve been seeing.

The minster in Ulm
The minster in Ulm, the tallest church in the world

We couldn’t visit the inside because there was a concert on. Jean Michel was ready to leave without seeing anything else but I encouraged him to at least take a walk through the pedestrian streets nearby. There were a few old houses but nothing outstanding so we drove to Erlingen to start cycling.

Saturday market in Ulm
Saturday market in Ulm

Next day, which was Saturday, we drove to Ehingen and took the train to Ulm. It was as though we were in a completely different town! There was a fresh produce market in front of the cathedral, which was open this time. Then we went to the Fishermen’s Quarter along the Danube and discovered the real soul of Ulm.

Fishermens' quarter in Ulm
Fishermens’ quarter in Ulm

We had lunch at an old mill with a water wheel and cycled through quaint little streets with pretty little houses.

Ulm minster from the other side of the Danube
Ulm minster from the other side of the Danube

We then rode along the old ramparts overlooking the Danube and went across the bridge to the other side where the Minister looked much more attractive! What a pity it would have been had we not gone back.

Baroque library in Wiblinger Abbey
Baroque library in Wiblingen Abbey

Not far from Ulm, we visited Wiblingen Abbey, another astonishing piece of baroque architecture including the abbey church, where a wedding was taking place, and a very beautiful library completed in 1744.

The balcony of the baroque church in Erbach
The balcony of the baroque church in Erbach

Another baroque church awaited us at Erbach, built on the top of a hill and commanding an extensive view of the surrounding area. Since Jean Michel has the map, I had no idea how steep the climb was and started too fast, spurred on by a car waiting at the top. To my dismay, we turned a corner and the road kept going. My legs were like jelly by the time I finally reached the church.

French cyclists carrying 40 kilos on their bikes, including a tent
French cyclists carrying 40 kilos on their bikes, including a tent

We stopped at a roadside Gasthaus in the little village of Ersingen for a cold drink and were surprised to hear the couple at the next table speaking French. It turned out they were camping at the Gasthaus that night and had just ridden 90 kilometers lugging 40 kilos on their bikes. Not really my scene, I must say!

The spring in Erbach
The asure spring in Blaubeuren

On another circuit along the Blau River north of the Danube, we visited the delightful little of town of Blaubeuren where the river comes out from under the ground in an azure blue pool.

Ceiling of the abbey church in Blaubeuren
Ceiling of the abbey church in Blaubeuren

It was no surprise that the Cistercian monks built a very large abbey there including a baroque church with a beautiful painted ceiling and a cloister.

Storks' nest
Storks’ nest

On the way back, Jean Michel spied another storks nest.

One of our last views of the Danube near Andelfingen in Germany
One of our last views of the Danube near Andelfingen in Germany

The weather on both days was not as hot as the first three days, often cloudy and overcast, but we didn’t get any rain. The weather forecast for the next stage of our trip near Linz in Austria does not look promising though.


Cycling in Germany – Tips & Tricks
Cycling in Germany #1 – Kobern-Gondorf on the Moselle
Cycling in Germany #2 – Rhine from Saint Goar to Lorch
Cycling in Germany #3 – Cochem to Zell on the Moselle
Cycling in Germany #4 – Koblenz where the Moselle meets the Rhine
Cycling in Germany #5 – Bad Schaugen to Pirna along the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #6 – Bastei Rocks, Honigen and over the border to Czech Republic 
Cycling in Germany #7 – Dresden: accommodation & car trouble and Baroque Treasure  
Cycling in Germany #8 – Dresden Neustadt: Kunsthof Passage, Pfund’s Molkerei, a broom shop & trompe l’oeil
Cycling in Germany #9 – Country roads around Niderlommatzsch on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #10 – Meissen on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #11 – Martin Luther Country: Torgau on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #12 – Martin Luther Country: Wittenberg on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #13 – Wörlitz Gardens and the beginning of neo-classicism in Germany
Cycling in Germany #14 – Shades of Gaudi on the Elbe: Hundertwasser
Cycling in Germany – Turgermünde, the prettiest village on the Elbe
Cycling in Germany #16 – Celle & Bremen
Cycling in Germany #17 – Windmills & Dykes
Cycling in Germany #18 – Painted façades from Hann. Münden to Höxter
Cycling in Germany #19 – Bernkastel on the Moselle: a hidden treasure
Cycling in Germany #20 – Trier & the Binoculars Scare
Cycling along the Danube – A Renaissance festival in Neuburg, Bavaria
Cycling along the Danube – Watch out for trains!
Cycling along the Danube – Regensburg & Altmuhle
Cycling along the Danube –  The Weltenburg Narrows
Cycling along the Danube – from its source to Ehingen
Cycling along the Danube – Ehingen to Ulm
Cycling along the Danube – Singmarigen to Beuron
Cycling along the Danube – Binzwangen to Mengen including  Zwiefalten
Eurovelo 6 – Cycling around Lake Constance
Eurovelo 6 – Moos to Stein am Rhein and Steckborn on Lake Constance
Heading home to France after a month’s cycling holiday
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39 thoughts on “Cycling along the Danube – Ehingen to Ulm”

  1. Holy moley! That library is an extravaganza, isn’t it?!! The interior of the church at Erbach looks interesting, with those painted panels across the galleries.

    The pool at Blaubeuren reminds me of Bitter Springs (We of the Never Never, Jeannie (Mrs Aeneas) Gunn). The pools there are that same colour. I think it is the calcium in the soil.

    Cute storks!

    1. I agree about the library. It was a showcase for the monastery of course. I love the galleries in the baroque churches. They’re the first thing I look for now.

      I was brought up on We of the Never Never. We had a copy signed by the author!

      1. Have you every been to the places she was writing about? It’s really beautiful country, Bitter Springs especially. (Although you wouldn’t want to be an arachnaphobe — huge orb spiders hanging everywhere.)

  2. I think you are amazing….I love the architectural notes , but also the personal bits……its as if I was with you and to write it up each day/night ; also to share your incites is marvellous and generous thank you

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