The Big Fireplace Operation – Stage 2

To the untrained eye, the current state of the fireplace may not seem any different from the last time I posted. However, another 5 days’ work put has been been into it!

The fireplace today

Now fireplaces are more complicated today than there were in the past for a very simple reason. Fires need air which used to be supplied by draughts from windows and doors. With the invention of double glazing and airtight seals around doors, there’s nowhere for the air to come in. So the fire smokes. The remedy – adding an air intake at the back of the fireplace – is not quite so simple in an old house with 70 cm walls.

First hole drilled through wall

However, Relationnel already has wall-drilling experience from installing the washing machine which used to empty out into the downstairs shower, so he attacked the wall with great gusto. It now has the necessary air intakes though it took two operations. The other thing you need in a chimney today is a hatch affair called a trappe in French. I don’t what it’s called in English.

Relationnel with his soldering gear

Its aim is to seal up the chimney when you’re not using the fire and to regulate the air flow when you’re using it. Since our four-hundred year old chimney is not at all standard, Relationnel had to make the trappes (three of them because of the width of the chimney and the fact that he’s doing this single-handed). This involved a lot of cutting and soldering of frames and plates that caused a couple of black-outs.

Looking up at the frame of the trappe

Once the trappes were in place they needed painting with special, ultra-sticky fire-resistant black paint. This is where I contributed my savoir-faire from painting the front gate this summer. It was a good thing that I had a throw-away overall with a hood or I’d have had to cut my hair afterwards. As it was, my rubber gloves kept sticking to the paint jar. But I did a wonderful job while Relationnel got on with some more skilled labour.

Me about to paint the trappe in my XL overalls

The next step was to decide on the design of the sole or hearth. Currently, there is just tiling which obviously isn’t ideal. I immediately rejected the idea of a metal plate as being inesthétique. We’ve inherited some otherwise very expensive refractory bricks from the Previous Owner but there are all shapes and sizes. Six reasonably ugly air vents also have to be incorporated somewhere so Relationnel lugged up the bricks and we set to work.

Designing the hearth with refractory bricks

After some slight initial friction due to my total ignorance of how these things work, we found a pattern we both agreed on. The whole thing will be raised to a total of 18 cm and despite appearances the finished result will be at the same height and those little holes will be filled in with half bricks. There’ll be an air vent on each side and the others vents will be in the thickness of the sole which will be entirely surrounded with an oak frame like our bedroom fireplace.

Large trappe before painting

We then moved onto the next stage, to which I contributed with slightly less efficiency, though I was very good as sorting the big nails from the little nails. Not that I really understood why they were mixed up anyway. I’m sure they should be in separate compartments. At the end, my fingers were covered with a sort of grey metal dust.

We had to attach a sheet of chicken wire to the back of the fireplace which is made of an assortment of materials including totally nail-resistant stone, crumbly wattle-and-daub, bricks and mortar. My preference goes to the mortar. You’re supposed to attach the chicken wire by driving nails halfway in, then banging their heads over to one side. Yes, well.

I was rather slow because I didn’t want to accidentally hammer my thumb. I did, however, manage to acquire a certain technique with the wattle-and-daub and mortar and Relationnel was pleased with the result.

He’s gone back to Paris now so I don’t know when we’ll be able to resume the work. The next stage is covering the chicken wire with a thick layer of refractory mortar, to which I shall also be contributing. I’ll be wearing shoe covers as well, I’d say.

No news from Mr PPO, by the way.

Monday’s Travel Photos – Fountains of Rome

We went to Rome in August when all the Romans flee the city, of course, to places like the Tivoli Gardens, because it’s too hot. The only way to survive was to get up early then go back to our air-conditioned apartment for a long siesta before venturing out again in the late afternoon. Not surprisingly, one of the greatest attractions were the fountains. Below are my favourites, some of which I can locate, others not. Maybe someone can fill in the missing information.

Let’s start with the Trevi Fountain!
Fontana del Moro in Piazza Navona
Fountain of the Naiads, Piazza della Repubblica
Il Babuino “The Baboon” in via del Babuino depicting a reclining Silenus, a character from Roman mythology, half-man,half-goat.
An ivy-covered fountain on the way to Alfreddo’s!
The basin looks suspiciously like a coffin!
You have to put your finger under the lower spout to make the water spurt up through a hole higher up.
A fountain in a lovely shady spot
Fountain and Temple of Hercules Victor in the Forum Boarium
And here we have the bathtub fountain, but that’s not it’s real name!

Australia to France – Expat Interview With Rosemary

As I mentioned in a previous post, I have been nominated for the 2012 Expat Blog Award (you still have time to write a review if you haven’t already done so 🙂 – just click on the logo on the right and scroll down to Aussie in France). Expats Blog currently unites 942 expat blogs in 93 countries with their latest blog posts, blog reviews, expat interviews & contests. Their news team bring daily topical news items from around the globe. 

The team also asked if they could interview me for their website www.expatsblog.com and I was happy to comply. Here’s the beginning of the interview. I’d just like to mention that the photo was taken when I was talking to my son Leonardo when we were holidays recently in Australia. 

Rosemary Kneipp knew from a very early age that she wanted to live in Europe. She learnt French at school and her university studies were aimed at achieving fluency in the language and getting a job in France. She has never regretted her choice and although she enjoys visiting Australia, France corresponds to her mindset in every way. Both her children were born and grew up in France and her husband is French. She doesn’t ever feel like a foreigner. In fact, when she goes to Australia, she feels as though she doesn’t belong there any more. Although she never thought she would want to leave Paris, she is looking forward to her new life in the Loire Valley in two years’ time and is spending lots of short holidays there in the meantime. Rosemary blogs at her site called Aussie in France. Read more

A Disappointing Restaurant in Blois

When my Australian friends Mei Lun and Alain were staying at Closerie Falaiseau recently, they wanted to try out a restaurant in their guide book called “Le rendezvous des pecheurs” which means “The Fishermen’s Rendez-vous”. As it turned out, we didn’t go there for various reasons but had an enjoyable evening at “L’Embarcadère” instead.

Dining room with trompe l’oeil dresser in front of the original counter

However, after a hard day’s work last Friday, I suggested to Relationnel that we go there for dinner. We had been some years ago and could remember the very attractive setting, but not the food.  I booked a table for 8.30 and off we went.

It was a cold, windy night and when we arrived, only one table was occupied, which was a bit worrying. We were taken into the second room by a friendly waitress.  The restaurant used to be an épicerie or grocery store and bar frequented by the local Loire fishermen and the original counter is still there, decorated with a trompe l’œil dresser. Written aound the walls are quotes from menus.

Quotes from menus on the walls

We rashly asked for champagne (I say rashly because we forgot to check the price first!) then ordered from the menu. Rationnel had  lobster with ox cheek  stew (which I personally didn’t like) but he said was tasty and chose pike for his main course, while I took what I thought was foie gras for starters followed by sea scallops.

Lobster with ox cheek stew

The chef obviously likes experimenting but he has not succeeded in “awakening the taste buds” as you would expect in a gastronomic restaurant. The foie gras was actually the best thing I ate, but it was not foie gras; it was mixed with something else. In fact, that was true of everything we had.  The scallops were not whole scallops and the pike was actually a quenelle.

Foie gras and parsley flan

We decided not to have dessert or coffee. Our champagne (one glass each) and local sauvignon (also one glass) plus starters and main course came to a whopping 165 euro.  Had we enjoyed the meal, we wouldn’t have minded. But we were more than disappointed. Only one other couple came in during the whole evening  which is not surprising. I don’t know how long the restaurant can last but I won’t be going back!

Cappuccino Woes

I don’t know how long I’m going to survive my inability to make cappuccino without having a nervous breakdown. This probably says a lot that I don’t want to know about my character, particularly at my age when there’s not much hope of making any appreciable improvements.

Cappuccino at Alfreddo’s in Rome

I spend every solitary meal (Relationnel has gone back to Paris for a day or so) watching cappuccino videos on my iPad in English and in French made by people who get it right every time, each using a different method. Just to depress myself further, I watch cappuccino art videos as well which show how to make dragons and butterflies with rich creamy foam that appears like magic.

Cappuccino in Rue de Richelieu, Paris

I don’t of course have a suitable jug because it’s in my missing suitcase so I’ve ordered two new stainless steel ones from a specialist coffee accessory website. I check every couple of hours to see the progress of the parcel as it winds its way across France. I’m a little worried though that once I get the jugs, I still won’t be able to make the milk froth properly.

Cappuccino in Hong Kong

However, I’ve now found a coffee forum where professional baristas complain about not being able to make a proper cappuccino. I don’t know whether that is a good or a bad sign but I have learnt from them that frothing milk varies with the type of coffee machine which partly explains all the different methods.

Cappuccino on the Gold Coast, Australia

What is even more depressing is that I don’t even manage to make decent coffee every time with my outrageously expensive machine and I haven’t even tried grinding the coffee beans with it yet ! Before, I had a cheap-O one we bought (first-hand mind you) in a “quick cash” shop which at least systematically made good coffee.

Cappuccino in Armidale, Australia

It came however with a basic airtightness defect which Relationnel solved initially but it eventually leaked which makes it a little dangerous. I was convinced that its cheapness was responsible for my not being able to make creamy froth. I was wrong. What I’m making now is much worse. At least I used to get it averagely thick most of the time with the old machine.

Cappuccino in Madrid but you can tell it’s not a real one

It is obvious to me that it’s like mayonnaise. The day you understand what you’re really doing, you always get it right, regardless of the time of the month, as many French people believe. I need to see someone do it properly and practise until I get it right. I just tried three times in a row, to no avail. On the coffee forum, they tell you to use a large jug that’s been in the freezer so that you have more time to get the foam going.

Sort-of-cappuccinos with my cheap-O machine

Of course now I’m afraid my jugs aren’t big enough. I’m hoping the parcel delivery man will turn up soon and put me out of my misery. I also have to buy more fresh milk which means driving 5 K to the supermarket. Sigh.

In Search of Christmas: Germany Christmas Market Tour – escape the tyranny of distance… and maintain your French – Freaking out Frenchie

This Wednesday, Jeff Titelius from Euro Travelogue takes us on a tour of Christmas markets in Germany with stunning photos that all look by picture postcards. Fellow Australian, Carolyn Lee, from Escape to Paris, gives lots of suggestions for maintaining your French when not in France and Bread is Pain talks about French phlegm. Enjoy!

In Search of Christmas: Germany Christmas Market Tour

by Jeff Titelius from Euro Travelogue: European travel impressions brought to life through the power of lens and pen.

Herald in the holidays and Advent this year with an unforgettable visit to one of Germany’s classic Christmas markets or Christkindlmarkts as they are known locally. Steeped in centuries-old traditions and customs, you can find a Christmas market in just about every landmark city and storybook village throughout Germany—town squares that come alive with the sights and sounds and smells of Christmas! Lining historic city-centre squares, hundreds of elaborately decorated Alpine chalets are brimming with traditionally hand-crafted gifts and festive ornaments, not to mention the savory indulgences of food and Glühwein or mulled wine of course—hard to resist after their tantalizing aromas reach your cold little noses! Read more

escape the tyranny of distance… and maintain your French

by Carolyne Lee, from Escape to Paris, an Australian writer, teacher, and researcher who tries to spend every spare moment in France

The great challenge for Australian francophones is maintaining our French, given our distance from France. Even with one or two trips per year, as some of us are able to make, there are still long fallow periods when we’re not using French for many months at a stretch. I’m always interested to hear other Aussie Francophones tell how they do their ‘maintenance’. The most fluent people, from my small and fairly random sampling, seem to keep up their French by reading French books on a regular basis, preferably daily, and this is also what I do. Read more

Freaking Out Frenchie

by Bread is Pain, a 30-something American living in the Rhone-Alps, and slowly eating and drinking herself through the country

So the other night MB and I were sitting watching an episode of French Masterchef.  The contestants were in the middle of a challenge in which they had to create a thin hollow ball made of out sugar (not exactly like the BBQ challenges of US Masterchef).  In one part of the challenge it was necessary to roll out and work the hot sugar “dough” which is at a dangerously high temperature, they have to wear special gloves.  One contestant is working his dough and talking about how hot it is and how you must be very careful.  The contestant next to him then accidentally sticks her naked elbow into the dough and lets out a scream. Read more

The Big Fireplace Operation and a Delinquent Seller

The Big Fireplace Operation is obviously taking longer than expected, but that is no surprise. Renovations always take longer than expected. First, Relationnel underestimated the size of the fireplace itself. Second, it turns out that someone along the way used it incorrectly resulting in a thing called bistre which is a brownish substance made of burnt soot and tar and can burn your house down if not removed.

Fireplace with bistre

Bistre is removed by tapping away with a pickaxe. You may remember that I moved down to Blois temporarily to escape the renovations on my balcony in Paris. Well, it’s the same sort of noise. My office is just next door. I do not, however, have to listen to a radio blasting away and workmen shouting at each other. And there are no pneumatic drills.

Triangle after chipping off facing, showing metal bar

Before removing the bistre, Relationnel also chipped off the facing of the upper part of the fireplace, above the mantel, revealing a triangular-shaped hole. He had previously propped up the sunken mantle which had been erroneously reinforced with a horizontal bar by someone who obviously didn’t realize (I’m sure I would have …) that the metal would expand when the fire was lit and push the sides of the fireplace further, causing the mantle to sink even further.

Mason’s trestles being installed to hold up mantle

At this juncture, a visit to BricoDepot was needed to buy some bright orange mason’s trestles. I must have been really desperate to get out the house to go on that excursion! First, you identify what you want in a catalogue, then you pay for it. You get one of those little raffle tickets that you give to the warehouseman when it’s your turn. He takes you to the storage area and unloads your purchases onto a large trolley. Then you get his mate to stamp your raffle ticket. You can tell why it’s the cheapest DIY place around.

After removing the keystone

The mason’s trestles are needed so that Relationnel can remove the mantle, which consists of several large stones with plaster holding them together, in preparation of the next phase. The sides of the fireplace also needed to be sanded down to remove various layers of paint. That also produced a somewhat unnerving noise.

Keystone with a piece of plaster fallen off

In the meantime, we got a call from Mr Previous Owner whom we had told about the Big Fireplace Operation. You know that big, square jagged hole above the mantle? Mr PO told us it happened when the crest stone with the construction date of the house – 1584 – was removed for renovation. The stone was damaged beyond repair. I always thought that was a bit strange because none of the fireplaces are in working order. Anyway, he had a new crest stone made by a stone cutter’s school  somewhere along the way using a photo of the original and gave it to us when we got the keys to the house.

Fireplace with mantle removed

Well, it turns out to be a little more complicated. It seems that Mr Previous Previous Owner had to sell the house because of his divorce and wanted a keepsake – SO HE REMOVED THE CREST STONE. Can you imagine that anyone who loved historical buildings enough to buy Closerie Falaiseau and undertake its entire renovation would destroy its very soul? The man is delinquant.

Fireplace with hole where the crest stone was removed

Mr PO, who has remained in contact with Mr PPO for some reason, phoned him and asked him if he would return the crest stone to us since we’re renovating the fireplace . Mr PO believed he was going to do so, but when Relationnel spoke to Mr PPO on the phone, he said he wasn’t ready yet and would have to check we were restoring the fireplace correctly! What utter cheek !

New crest stone with 1584 just visible

We also learnt that Mr PO was able to have the new stone made from a plaster cast of the old one which turned up in the house next door, owned by Mr PPO’s brother who no longer owns his house either.Mr PPO was supposed to come by today but he obviously didn’t. Relationnel says there is no way he is going to set foot in the door without the stone. I agree of course. So we’re going ahead and using the new stone as planned.

Monday’s Travel Photos – Naples

Naples is not a popular destination with tourists. True, we did have to hurriedly get off a bus when Jean Michel realised his pockets were being searched, but he had taken adequate precautions so nothing was stolen. But apart from that, I felt perfectly safe and I really loved Naples. I particularly liked the ceramics in the beautiful cloisters of Santa Chiara and the amazing Nativity cribs in the Certosa museum which overlooks Naples. We went by train from Vico Equense on the Bay of Naples where we were staying, which saved us the hassle of parking. Black Cat has been there since and she really enjoyed it too.

Santa Chiara Cloisters
Guglia Dell Immacolata Obelisk in the Piazza Del Gesu
A shady upper gallery in Naples
A typical Napolitan street
Convitto Nazionale European School in Naples
Street stalls on 5th avenue

Just one of the beautiful creches (presepe) for which Naples is famous, in the Certosa museum
Galleria Umberto built in 1887-1891 as part of the renovation programme
The mediaeval Castel Nuovo

An Autumn Walk in Les Grouets

The sun’s shining outside and we’ve just had lunch. Instead of getting back to work on a very boring translation and the Big Fireplace Operation respectively, I suggest to Relationnel that we go for a walk. What’s the point of living in the country if we can’t make the most of autumn? Relationnel immediately agrees so I put on my big thick walking shoes and off we go.

Closerie Falaiseau in autumn

We turn right out of the gate and walk down the road until we get to the railway underpass. We turn right again, up the hill, to the forest. I see there is a sort of path on the right, so we walk along that. Then I see a cyclist bearing off to the right once more and suggest we follow him. We keep going until we come to a sort of clearing.

Forest clearing

In front of us is a fairly steep slope and I realise this must be what Alain meant when he talked about being in the forest and seeing the tree tops. The light is amazing and it really is very beautiful and peaceful. We come out of the forest and past a field of stubble, then through a bower of trees that have already lost their leaves.

Natural archway of trees

At the end of the path, instead of continuing straight ahead, we turn right to explore the houses which Relationnel tells me overlook ours. I’m amazed that he knows where we are as I have lost all notion of geography by this time. We then start walking through brambles and Relationnel lets slip that “according to the satellite photo, this should take us back to the other path”. Ah, now the secret’s out ! He’s been checking out Google maps.

Ring of agaric mushrooms

We finally have to turn back because the brambles are getting too thick and I am wearing my only decent anorak. We connect up to the field of stubble again and Relationnel finds a Marasme des Oréades (Marasmius oreades) but there’s only one so we don’t keep it. Then we see a whole ring of agarics but they’re on private property which means we obviously can’t pick them even if there’s no fence. A little further on, we see a little group of parasol mushrooms somewhat past their prime huddling together in the sun.

Parasol mushrooms huddling together

We go past a few more houses and I see a delightful little number plaque with blue shutters and a blue bike. Now, I wonder what sort of plaque I could find for a house that’s 400 years old and has mullioned windows and a half-timbered tower? And I wonder whether Mei Lun’s beautiful drawing of Closerie Falaiseau could be made into a plaque.

N° 13

Suddenly I recognise where we are – we’re walking down a road called Rue de la Grande Filaire that I’ve never wanted to take because we usually approach it from the bottom on our bikes and it looks like a long haul up ! So we turn right and walk down Rue de l’Hôtel du Grand Pasquier that eventually meets up at the church on the corner of our road. Another 15 minutes and we’re home, delighted with our lovely autumn walk and ready to get back to work.

Mei Lun’s sketch of Closerie Falaiseau

Cold Legs and Cappuccino

Well, in my last post, I said that we could maintain an even 19°C in Closerie Falaiseau, our 400-year old home in Blois, but I spoke too soon. Also, I’m not convinced that 19°C is really warm enough when you’re sitting at a computer for long periods! To allow for the BIG FIREPLACE OPERATION, I’ve moved my office into the guest room. I still have more or less the same view, only a little more restricted, but when the living room is at 20°C, the bedroom is only at 17°C. Maybe it’s because there is carpet over the heated floor in the bedrooms. Who knows?

The view from my current office

We ended up going to buy a stand-alone heater so that I won’t have to sit with my legs wrapped up in a blanket and gloves on my hands any more. We could heat the house more, as we did today, but the cost is prohibitive and we don’t need a higher temperature in the other rooms. I also bought some leggings. I asked the lady for a collant sans pieds (tights without feet) which is what they used to be called, but she corrected me : “ah, des leggings” (pronouncing it the French way). I didn’t catch what she was saying at first.

My heater in Bricorama

Relationnel has completed stage 1 of the BIG FIREPLACE OPERATION. He has put up a PVC curtain to separate the room in half so that the rest of the house isn’t covered in soot. He added another curtain around the fireplace while he was sweeping the chimney and donned some more effective overalls than last time. Also, he made sure the vacuum cleaner didn’t blow the soot back into the room this time. It’s all a learning process!

Today, my wonderful new Pavoni espresso coffee machine arrived direct from Milano. This is a great extravagance, but I have developed a fixation about being able to make proper cappuccino. It has an automatic cappuccino attachment just in case I still can’t manage to make that thick creamy frothy milk that I like. We had to buy a magnifying glass along with the leggings because neither of us can read the tiny print in the multilingual instruction booklet, with or without lenses/glasses.

The translations into French and English leave much to be desired. The translator obviously didn’t have the machine in front of him/her when doing the translation. That is quite obvious. Also, the English has more information than the French. I am going to have to make an effort and try and read the Italian, I think.

So far, my milk foaming efforts have not been brilliant. It doesn’t help that I don’t have a stainless steel jug (the one my sister-in-law bought me in Australia is in my missing suitcase) and they don’t seem to sell them around here. I might try the Italian shop in Blois tomorrow. Drummer brother says you have to use the “kiss” technique, but I don’t really get it. I can see that I’m going to have to look at a lot more YouTube videos. Any suggestions are more than welcome.

The coffee itself’s good though.

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